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Brilliant! I must try it! Thanks...........

It makes sense.....I just am trying to deny that its an electrical problem and convince myself and others that it would be more simple than that, being that electrical problems can often be a pain in the arse! Hello voltmeter...... and likely hours of proding and poking.....

Regarding the Sea Foam........what is the best way to clean out a fuel tank without taking the fuel tank out...........basically what the best additive to put in the tank to clean it?? Thanks..........

Sorry, I should clarify......it seems that the RPM guage is working correctly, but just 1,000 rpms off...........almost like something within the guage needs to be adjusted...........so I would guess its more of a mechanical problem than electrical?? The guage runs smoothly in acceleration and deacceleration. I sense the problem is similar to a situation when you step on a scale to weigh yourself, but if the scale is not set to zero, you won't get a correct measurement. Its like the rpm guage is not set to start at zero, but negative 1,000...therefore all readings are 1,000 short? So how could this be fixed.

84 wagon gl 4wd auto - in the beginning had some annoying electric problems (hibeams were perminantly on).....dash was removed.......bypassed hibeams......works fine; however, the hibeam indicator on the dash is now perminantely on....though the lights (low and high) work fine....not a problem . The problem is, the RPM guage is incorrect. I idle at below zero....the automatic shifts at 1.5 - 2.0k rpms. My guess is that its about 1,000 rpms off. So how do I correct this so my guage shows correctly???

Try www.lithiasubaruoregoncity.com ??? speak with Ron if all else fails.

Its an 84 wagon 4wd gl auto....and yes carb. So what then happens when you twist the disty clockwise or counter-clockwise......I noticed that if you turn one way the engine runs faster, the other way, and it runs slower................what is actually happening? To my understanding you are lengthening or shortening the firing distance....is that correct? Thanks............

My friend (a mechanic) who I used because he has a timing gun and also knows more than me, adjusted my timing after I installed a new disty. He timed it high saying that it would generate more power, but said I must use high octane gas (91 or higher). Well I definitely feel the car has more power; however, I noticed in hard acceleration I can hear the carb give off the "I need more juice" rattle.......so I went to grade 93 octane......still the rattle. I think my friend just timed it too high, so I would like to drop it just a tad so that the system is comfortable with 93 or 91 octane. Could I just untighten the lock down bolt on the disty, give it a slight turn, therefore, decreasing the gap....problem solved? Or do I have to go thru the whole timing cover off, timing gun job? TIA

So what is the purpose of the Purge Solenoid.......seems like an inconsequential expensive piece of garbage ...........

Between you and me, we know the true names of these parts.....everyone else is crazy. Question.........if the purge solinoid was defunct, would it result in a slight hesitation when accelerating??

If your right, I'll admit my idoicy............though I learn something every day on the message board......hail USMB! thanks..........but I will upload the picture just in case.......I don't believe its functioning correctly

Thanks again for looking.....I will definitely upload a better, clearer picture of #2.... One thing I do know about it, is that it has an L shaped rod coming out of it. When the car is off, I can push the rod in; when on, I can't push it at all (at least without breaking it). And it's located just left (that's passenger side left) of the carb. Cheers.........

Laugh it up fuzz ball! Having fun on my expense......for shame.................thanks for at least looking! (yes that is a Star Wars line)

where would that be located?....the plastic trash can with vac hoses.... thanks

Not sure? whats the charcol canister look like?

dohicky and thingamjig.......my thoughts exactly.......so what the heck a purge solinoid......whats it do?? Looks like its been jimmy rigged.

Trying to figure out what these parts are and what the do...........see links below for pics......... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6361 [/url] http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6362

The Alt is brand new, and the belt is fairly new. Regarding the Water Pump, how should I test it to see if its ok? Cheers.........

I have notice an occasional screeching occuring and it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I'll drive for an hour without a peep, but when it does peep its loud and abnoxious. I assume its my alt belt....should I loosen it a tad? or could it be something else? Temp is fine/normal. Its an 84 wagon 4wd auto......... Thanks.........

Should I use a voltage meter? Sorry for being so trivial....I'm trying to learn as much as possible! Thanks again.......

So where would I connect the cables. For example, to test the line between the Alt and the battery, where would I actually connect the cables?? Thanks for your help..........

Thanks.......now how does that work using the jumper cables to test the connections??? :-\

Ok....I'm having trouble starting the car in the morning, almost to the point where I consider trying to jump start it. Once it starts, after about 6 attemps, it barely catches and stumbles quite a bit. After about one minute and pressing the gas, all is fine expect a subtle hesitation when I go from a stop to acceleration. Alt is new, disty new and timed, carb new and set. And it doesn't seem like the starters bad as it seems to send plenty of spark, it just has trouble "catching". Once the car is warm it will start fine. I'm definitely going to get new plugs to see if that helps.......what do you guys recommend in regards to plugs? Thanks....

The timing has been tuned and I checked the EGR diaphram and its good. The disty is brand new so the vac advance is good. One thing I noticed which may be related, is that when I have the AC on, the RPMs drop which fine; however, it threatens to stall when I'm at a stop or making a turn. I also notice that when it threatens to stall with the AC on, the voltage has dropped to the red, but returns to normal when I press the gas. I have a brand new Alt installed too and I believe the battery is good. Is there some voltage regulator that could be causing this??? Or do I need to adjust the idle up a little??? Or someting else?? Thanks...........

True......what could I get for $400??