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2 codes P1443 #3 Failed vent solenoid-- Don't hear "Whoosh" when opening cap -Did swap out for another one Swapped cap #2 Poor elec connection #1 open or short cir condition Po420 #1 RichA/F ratio #2 ignition system malfunction #3 Faultly Cat Converter

Forester 2003 2.5L 160K-- This has happen for about third time and usually goes out after <> 6 times driving car . It bugs my wife to see it on , Is there a way to cure it quicker -like disconnecting the battery for few minutes? The last time it happened I topped of tank more after the auto-shut off. Anybody else experienced this and any tips?.

95 legacy automatic tranny- No back-up lights either one , bulbs OK. Haynes book says there is adjustment, was difficult to see "how to" .Part of exhaust was blocking view from underneath. Was unsure of where switch is located and what to do to adjust. Any advise as it appears it hasn't been much of problem for others. Am I going about it wrong?

2002 Forester 154K-- with the wipers are in use they "slam" all the way to return position and then seem to do same toward the passenger side door pillar after several "wipes". I pulled the motor loose so I could move arm that connects the 2 which has a 3/16 to 1/4" play without the blades moving. I am away from home and didn't want to pull vent cowling on driver side to really view linkage issue. Has anyone experienced this and since I'm not in Subaru "COUNTRY" did you get some recycled parts or how big of assy the "Stealers" does make you order?

I have a 2002 Forester with 15" rims. I found a set of alloys that came off a (outback or Impreza 15") at a recyler. What do I have to be concerned about?- I bought a extra set of winter tires that I want to mount. I didn't have car with me when I happened to be shopping 35 miles away. Thanks for info

Fixed--- Was a bad taillight bulb ! See post in other forum. Never would have suspected THAT!! Thanks to Grossgary

Kudu's to Grossgary !!! He gave me heads-ups to check taillights... Sure enough I had a running light bulb base the was corroded and base was loose from glass. Replaced that and sprayed some contact cleaner on base. Bingo!!! drove around loop and light stayed off! Who knows what a mechanic that doesn't work on Subies often and what dealer would have charged to repair. Sure wasn't a place I would start to diagnose problem!!! Thanks

I have got 3 different half shafts from CVO inc in Ocala Fl. Two Subarus and one Plymouth Mini van All lasted and never had to replaced in over 5 years. Prompt UPS delivery etc. I thought price was very fair. Check out website and appears he does all type including industrial types. Very good to work with too!! ..

Have a 95 2.2L Legacy with 130K miles. Light comes on and stays on after few minutes. Went to A/Z and tried to have them "erase the stored" codes etc. No sucess! M/C is full. We live in Mts and wife's car and front rotors have a slight warp as there is vibration when braking moderately . Issue?? Plenty of pad left and not any "tell tale" contact. I used air and brake cleaner to remove all dust etc without removing sensors. I tried to remove one of them by removing one stud flange but was unsucessful. It looked as if it should pull up but after tapping it appeared to be very tight and due to age possibly slightly coroded? What a sentence!!! Any suggestion for a driver of many Subaru's for 30 years??

95 Legacy 130 K miles Automatic 2.2 L Had some trouble with corrosion on bat cables , cleaned and disconnected etc. Had bat load checked, I checked alt output which is 14.2 V. Drove around for a road "check" stopped once for 15 min , came home and shut off and heard "hum" under hood and located sound and felt vibration under the ABS unit. Started engine again and shut off but noise persisted in an attempt to "reset" . I eventually unplugged unit to prevent killing bat for the night as I couldn't locate the specific fuse under the hood box. I feel it is safe to drive as road conditions here are dry for moment. What am I looking to do for this issue? Is there a Switch that can be replaced or ? Thanks for reading this dialog as I hoped to include all info! BTW- I never heard it before with engine running when doing tuneups etc.

Sounds like problem solved, but a HG test works by taking of rad cap with cool engine and watch for bubbles in rad. I say cool because I don't to get the pressurized hot water in my face.

From the quote "when all all fails read the book" in regard to tensioner. If you choose to use old one. You need compress it and pin it. You need a vise and turn slowly to let it "catch" as and it takes 15 to 45 seconds before you can crank down some more with vise. A 4 penny nail or drill bit will lock in compressed state till tim / belt is properly set. I learned hard way and had to buy a new tensioner. at <> $100 at 2000 price. Hope this helps!!! The oem belt from Subaru has belt marked so its easy to if on right tooth count which I'm sure after market ones do.

I replace right cv axle and fixed the problem. Boots looked good and looks to be original. Guess it was inter-joint that was the culprit.

It occurs during a moderate acceleration but not during a accelerator backoff. Going around a curve with constant foot pressure it stops. At 60+ it is hardly detectable. I put it on jackstands started engine, no noise under that "light load" or obvious "slop" of shafts when I grabbed the them. The engine was off then. Hope this helps?

I have a 02 Forestor with 140K miles and have Subbies since 82. The noise isn't the usual when you turn the corner, but on straight away and when going on a curve it goes away. I was able to diagnose outside joints by turning a corner etc. The boots all look OK. Is there a system for us shade tree mechanics for the inner cv joints? BTW at 65+mph it is hardly noticeable and starts about 25. I just completed a 750 mile trip and I cannot detect any indication its getting worse!

95 legacy- I have the unit out of dash but cannot see or find a bulb that can be replaced. Am I outdated with technology? appreciate help there

I got it! Shade tree mechanic error. I found on later post I was using arrow ant the vertical tick marks. I even circuled it in book but arrow was more obvious. % years and next service I should rember to get it right!!! Thanks for your help!!!

I am putting on new t-belt OEM using the marks on belt for correct tooth count. I'm sure I got it orietated right as I counted teeth according to Haynes manual. I truned engine over prior to removing old belt and had "tick marks" on pulley line up with palstic housing and crank TDC in timing range. I don't think cam jumped more than 1/2 turn beyond marks and then I turned it back. Is it possible that it could be 180 out? They turn 1/2 turn to cranks full turn. I've been there before being 180 off on other than Subarus. Any hints would be great!! I've done this on this car before 4 years ago but may have a case of "oldtimers".

We have a 95 2.2L , I think the 2.5L's that came out about 97 and the next years were the problem. Search this site with head gasket, 2.5L engine and you should learn which had problems. I'm sure most of them have been repaired since then, Good Luck!!!

Sorry, But what is a high pole setup? To tow???

The tensioner is a key item, MHO! It compresses very slowly in my 5" vise. It doesn't compress all at once, I cranked down let it set a few minutes and then cranked some more. I would entertain a better way if someone has one? Pin it with a 3 P 0r 4P nail till you get the belt all on properly. I learned the hard way that part is over $65 4 years ago. I know Subrau timing belt has marrks on to make alignment or timing correct, I don't know if after market belts have the marks. Replace that o-ring on oil pump as its very cheap part to have to go thru what you are doing again for $1.50 part while you are in there.

If you have a extra pair of hands availible you can stick a couple of screwdrivers in opening of cam pulley another in betwween those and have helper man the breaker bar. Rube -goldberg but works for me! I would replace oring on oil pump too after all that tear down effort. The 0rings get hard and leak. <$1 part The trick is removing that tightener and compressing with vise and pinning with a 4 or 6 p nail till t-belt is back on. Part is $$$$ if you mess it up! Been there, done that!!!

[Have you tried CVO axles located in Fl? I put one one a Subaru and a Plymouth minivan. That was 8 months ago and no problems. Price was fair and shipping was prompt! cvo@cvaxles.com sells retail and wholesale Good Luck!!!