roger1

[quote See my post tonight-- Noise when clutch is pressed in. I also have a engine leveler on the hoist which helps getting things lined up. Again with engine out you can do the other things much easier Good luck! It took two of us 2 days to get it back on road, some of that was getting pulleys and camseals that we hadn't purchased originally.. We are almost at the end of the world here and had to go 35 miles to Santa Fe or 90 miles to ABQ for parts

Sure sounds like a T/O bearing. You might be able to prolong its life by not setting at light with the clutch in (put in neutral and let clutch out). When you do replace it do the pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch plate and the throwout bearing. Make sure the 2 clips are still there to hold throwout bearing to arm that clutch cable attaches to. I find it easier to pull engine rather than dropping tranny , which requires laying on your back with tranny on your stomach and hoistin back into place without a tranny jack. I have a engine hoist so that another reason pulling engine is easier for me. This doesn't require the engine to be pulled, but if you do, I would replace water pump, oil pump o-rings, and with that many miles the tensioner and or ilder pulleys associated with timing belt. They are certainly easy to work on with engine out. With that many miles they don't owe you anything. MHO

I have the same model year, several years ago that happened to me. I went to local repair shop had them put on computer ($65) and gave me a componet that was faulty. Had to go to dealer for the $35 part,went to library and found componet location on engine. Replaced it and as been good ever since. I drove it several months with no apparent (to me) performance before I did anything about it.

My OEM belts had marks on them to help with timing. Sure made it easier, when I turned the engine through it was right on! Has anybody found marks on after markets ones like Gates? I used some webbing over pulley when I used the chain wrench as I had to file kicks off I made during removal.

I had a problem with our 95 Legacy, headlight out, replaced the bulb, 2 weeks later same thing, replaced bulb and nothing. The socket the bulb was plugged into crumbled (from heat?) Spliced in new socket and no problem. The socket wasnt obvious the first time. My 2 cents!

I will pass on the selling price. The sending units (2) are easy to do,pull up mat in cargo area remove plates (2) If AWD. Cost about $90 each at dealer. Go to locksmith for rear hatch. That is normally a 300K engine on normal maintanence. This includes radiator coolant replaced every 2 years. This is probably a 2.2 engine none interferce design, 2.5L is interference type prone to headgasket problems. Are you sure its valve cover gaskets and not head gaskets? Rotate tires and or replace to keep circumferecnes identical for the AWD. They are slightly more unique that other inline engines so find a mechanic that is knowledgable. My wife bought another after 18 years of an 80 with original engine and tranny with 210K miles . Has a 95 AWD legacy now for 5 years.

[i had the same problem with my old Mercedes and a mechanic fro germany said give a good rap with a hammer on oil plug. Never was frustrated again!

The biggest problem for me was loosening The stud for the cranksahft pully. I bought a chain wrench that helped alot. It knicked the pulley and I filed off the burrs. Tightening it I put a piece of webbing to prevent that. Other folks put socket and breaker bar on and hit the starter momentary to "crack" it loose. If you have a remote starter that would make it easier for me. Put on new belt and note marks for the timing on belts. (At least on OEM ones) If after market one don't have marks ,pass, because it so much earier withe marks. All of previous post had good advise. my .02 cents

Assuming you are talking about 85-89 engines, none are required Unless engine has gotten hot to melt and sag? Then you have to decide what you need to do to patch it up. I would use a none hardening type because you need to get them off to swap timiing belts. Sometimes a spot of wheel bearing grease will hold something in place during assy. MHO

If lubing doen't fix your problem, clean contacts on switches with contact cleaner and non abrasive cloth . On older ones they had small springs so work in area you won't lose parts. Worked every time for me!

I used a chain wrench I bought from Northern tool for <> $20. Use some fabric strapping or thick leather to keep knicks from teeth of wrench from damaging pulley. I was able to grind them out with the pulley in hand but added the protection when reassembling. This made it easy for me alone to torque it during reassemably

It doesn't have a Tach! I'll see how my time goes on pulling it out. The heater was by-passed and I need one that doesn't leak! Any help? thanks

Go yo www.cvaxles.com for a replacment! I never known one to tear up tranny, but never drove one till it quit! If it's noisy going straight it's probably inside joint as outside's on make noise on power into corners.

Just got it running again, but the speedometer doesn't work but odometer does. Any tips that I might do other than a shop? THANKS

Did your belt have some marks on to get the proper number of belt teeth between cam pulleys and main gear? The haynes book was very good about the count and on my OEM belt they had marks that was a big help which I discovered by DUMB luck. If it runs you cannot be very far off. On my 86 I thought you could tweek dist and 1 tooth wasn't a problems. NO WAY!!!!

The chain wrench sure was a big help with loosening the stud that holds pulley. put piece of webbing or leather under to prevent nicking pulley. Belt tightener compresses very slow in vise(2 -3 minutes) a little at a time. Mines a 2.2 l 95 model. I used Haynes manual with OEM parts and worked fine. Timing belt had marks on for timing the cams and main pulley which made it easy. You can count the teeth and mark it too if it didn't have it. Hope I'm not too late!

Have someone who has some of those skills to help you or show you how. You can just replace boot if you haven't lost all the grease which is spattered around the underside. You will need a breaker bar to remove nut visible with hubcap off. Also a steering linkage puller is a great help so you don't mess up threads "beating" it out with a hammer. It's not a job with only a screwer and pliers! $200 fo parts and labor isn't that bad. A rebuilt shaft cost about $100 "I'm guessing" and can be found on internet or the chain part store. There should be good Subaru guys in Co.

I replacing the coolant and would like to get all old stuff out as it's about 3 years old. Is it those large flush plugs with the hex opening? As I remember they were slightly different diameters. If it is they are sure much easier to get at than the 1.8 OHC's. Off topic of my post, I used a Subaru timing belt and had marks on belt with number of teeth between sides and crankshaft. Really handy for this shadetree mech. Do the other parts houses do that too?

I don't think would have done any damage, as I suspected something was going on and decided to go here and work in morning. I don't think it moved .030. My Haynes didn't give any hints like that! Thanks for the heads up!!!

It's located passenger side,toward intake manifold just beyond the air filter housing. It's has several wires in cable running to it. Bigger cable than one would think! Good luck!

I am replacing timing belt and was doing fine until I tried to push plunger in and pin it till I got the pulley installed. I put in a vise and try to push in and cannot believe how much pressure I put on it and didn't appear to move. The plunger rotates in it present position so I assume it 's not "frozen". Any help would be appreciated

Lets Hear it for Marvel Mystery Oil!! This engine EA82 sat for a long while and it sounded like a pwr stroke diesel. I used a stethascope so I knew It was on pass sidel It was idling about 1000 rpm's and I added about a pint to crankcase. Five minutes later it sounded like a Subaru. I've heard about AT fluid but this was on my shelf so I tried it and it worked!!!!

Some nice thief cut the wiring harness of stereo taking plug of stereo unit and mating connector. I have a another radio with a plug and another female connector to splice on to main harness. In reviewing the colors they don't match to wires on harness. If I have the colors that mate I can have a direction to go. Can someone help me out as I can rearrange them to work ( Ihope !)

My 86 turbo gl-10 starts when cooled off (2hrs in 80 degrees) If I shut it off it off and try to start instantly it won't start. I had someone crank it over with timing light and appears normal firing. What would be sensitive to heat that needs to be ambient temp?. I am going to change timing by a tooth as I cannot get it on the marks. Turbo's have a large number (20+ degrees) so is that possibly my problem?

I have a set (4) alloys off a 87 roger1@cybermesa.com