TomRhere

Welcome to the Board, you've found the best place to get info about your car(s). If the coolant is dripping from the front of the engine, out of the Black plastic Timing belt cover, I would say it's the water pump. There's a weep-hole in the body of the pump, it's behind the T-belt cover. When the pump seal goes bad, it will leak coolant out of the weep hole. The water pump is located just to the right of the crank pulley, (large pulley, center of engine), as you stand in-front of the car. There are afew other places that the coolant could leak from though. Give the engine a good look over for signs of coolant leaks. There's a few small hoses on top of the engine, there's a hose from the water pump to a metal tube that heads toward the back of the engine, where it connects to the heater hoses. The lower radiator hose goes to a metal pipe that leads to the water pump. There's an O-ring on it at the pump that can leak. Any of those can/will leak and the coolant will find it's way to the ground. One needs to see if they can trace the leak back to it's source. The '84 BRAT I had leaked coolant, owner said bad head gasket, when I bought it. Turned out to be pin-hole in heater hose, cheap easy fix. :} Look engine over some more and post back with findings. We'll guide you in from there......

Can't say for sure on a Wagon, but this is what I found on an '86 BRAT as far as connections in the harness going to the rear lights. There's a connector behind the PS kick panel, harness runs under the doorsill trim. Next one rearward is just infront of the backwall, behind the side trim. Maybe it's behind the side trim of the backseat in a Wagon, don't know. Harness runs between inner/outer body panels, over the rear wheel well. On the BRAT, the next connector is behind the PS tail light assembly. The harness splits here to feed PS and runs across to the DS getting the plate lights and gas tank on the way. There is a ground wire to the body at the connector behind the PS light. On the BRAT, it is attached behind the 1st access panel in the bed. Maybe it's behind the side panel of the Wagon, again,,, I don't know. Just thought I'd throw this up here to help you trace things down.

I bought a set for my '82 BRAT a couple years ago. The on-line parts place ain't there anymore, but I have others to try. Will let you know.....

Welcome indeed.... Always glad to see another Michigander join the Board. Yeah, it's not to far of a drive to Lansing, about 1 to 1-1/2 hour depending on traffic and route taken. I-69 is the easiest, but not really the fastest. I prefer either M-99 or US-127 depending on which side of Town I'm going to. Dad-burned kid and his friend playing on-line games are messing with my DSL. Ones on his system, others on the X-Box live. I'm going to pull the plug here shortly.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/7b2961db.jpg Gates 28466 hose. Trim to fit either EA-81 or EA-82. It's the hose from the water pump to metal tube under the altenator, the "fun" one to change....

Possible,,,yes... Easy,,,,no. Easier if you remove seat on that side. Been there, done that.

Depends on the parts used really. Size of Master Cylinder bore, both diameter & length. Same with Slave Cylinder, and where the pivot point is on the levers. Using a larger bore/ stroke length MC would push a smaller bore SC further in it's stroke length. Diameter of SC, will effect how much working force(pressure) it has in association with the diameter of the MC bore. Also, where the actuating rod for the MC is hooked to the clutch pedal will change the force applied to the MC, as in how much leg work is involved. Compare the brake pedal/ MC set-up between a car with power brakes, and one with standard brakes. The MC rod on power brakes is closer to the pivot point of the pedal than the standard brake one is. This is because you need more leg work from the standard set-up to work the hydraulics of the system. Lowering the MC rod from the pivot point on the clutch pedal will increase the stroke length applied to the MC, along with the force. Length/diameter of the SC will determine how far the clutch fork will move at the working end, and how much force is applied to the pressure plate. The pivot point on the clutch fork will effect force applied to the PP, along with length of stroke needed by the SC to move it enough to release the clutch. Have I got you all confused now??? I work in hydraulics and was just trying to paint a picture of how things work here.

I have 2-EA-81 engines here, both with dead vac units on the distys. I would love to find a place to get replacements. I've had the thought of pulling one, sending it to Philbin, then do the other one when the rebuilt one comes back. But being able to get replacement units would be the better way for me.

Yeah, they are right proud of those solenoids. A trip to the local salvage yard, with your multi-meter is best bet. Also, the solenoid next to it is for the Purge canister, if I remember right. One of those will work, you just have to change the connector for the wiring of it.

The Mrs says you can have our share, and I agree. Had about 8", but it warmed up here in the last few days, so we have about 4" of ice/snow crusty mix stuff. Yours for the taking.........

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49241 Maybe the gears will fit the 5 speed trans acording to the link above, but I don't believe they would fit the 4 speed. I bought 2 of the 4.11 rear diffs from the Legacy line to do my T-case mod using the Nissan T-case behind the 4 speed tranny. Thinking now after Wil's post, I'll be looking into LSD's for both. :} edit; Yeah, I know he was talking about the front tranny diff, the post just gave me the nod in the right dirrection is all........ end edit;

Can't give specifics for your car, but I can offer some wiring assistance. The rear defroster takes some serious amps to work, something in the 20 amp range I'm thinking. So you reallly don't want to tie into another circuit to run it. Run a wire from the battery + side to a fuse, then to the normally open contacts of a relay, the other side of which would go to the defroster. Now, tap into a key "on" feed and run into a switch, then back to the coil of the relay, other side of which goes to ground or battery -. simple diagram; x's are for spacing and don't mean anything xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx normally open relay contacts xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx v Battery +-----[fuse]-------l l--------defroster grid-----ground {battery -} key "on" power feed------ switch -------(coil of relay)----ground {battery -}

Way back when, (a couple months ago), when I did the Weber & EA-82 intake swap on the BRAT, I cut my own intake-head gaskets. Well, needless to say, it wasn't a real good idea to use cork to do that. Hey, I had the material here, needed to make gaskets, and it did work for a little while. I ordered me some new intake/head gaskets, plus tune-up related items on 12-17, they showed up here on 12-23. Got the chance to work on her today. Put the new intake gaskets in, pulled the Bosch Platinum 4's out and installed the proper NGK plugs, along with new wires, cap and rotor. I've been running around with a small pin-hole in that pesky little hose under the alt that goes from the water pump to the heater supply tube under the manifold. Have had no-luck finding the replacement for it, until now....... Ran down, (well,, actually I drove the XT-6), to the local parts store to see if they had anything in stock, close to fitting, I knew they wouldn't have the right hose... Anyways, seems a Gates #28466 hoses is just the ticket. It needs to be trimmed on both ends by an inch or so, but it fits!!!!!!! I didn't ask what vehicle it was for, didn't care..... Just knew it was real close to what I needed. Got a pic of both hoses here if anyone is interested.. Got back here and trimmed hose to fit, installed hose and refilled the system. Started her up, and let her run for over an hour.. No more puddle on the ground, no steam out of the exhaust, no missing/sputtering. All is good...... I had also bought new front pads and rear shoes, but I need to check my stash to see if I have any good rotors/drums here, otherwise I'll order them in here before I do a brake job on her. She needs one bad, as the brakes will lock if you pull the E-brake to far, (one click only), or nail the brake pedal to hard while backing up. Puttin around town here, there's no problem. I know better than to get her out on the big road yet with the brakes the way they are. Don't get me wrong, I do have brakes.. I just know they ain't what they should be and drive accordingly, nothing over 55,, period..... And I leave myself an out by not getting to close to the car in front of me. I'm in no hurry to get to where I'm heading to, and I drive mostly on back-roads where other vehicles are scarce. Brakes will be fixed properly, come next weekend.....

All of the bolt patterns are the same between the EA81/82 flywheels. However, the timing marks are off a bit between the two. EA-81 has the timing hole at about the 10 o'clock position where the EA-82's is straight up 12 o'clock. You would need to use the EA-81 clutch disc along with the EA-81 throw-out bearing (that fits your tranny), and the EA-82's pressure plate to match the flywheel. Atleast that's how I understand it. I bought my '82 BRAT with an EA-82 engine in it. The swapper had used the EA-81 flywheel/clutch assembly for the D/R 4 speed tranny. Worked ok, but it made replacing the T-belts a real pain. Plus I had to set ignition timing by ear/vacuum gauge. One can line-up the crank bolt holes of the two flywheels, and transfer the marks from one flywheel to the other. You want the crank side of one to sit on the clutch side of the other to do this. Crank bolt pattern is offset,, so the flywheel will only bolt on one way, be sure you have the bolt holes aligned right before transfering any marks.

I was told that the 2WD tank would fit if you lifted it 4", might get by with a 3" lift, not sure. There's about a 2 gallon difference between the 2WD and 4WD tanks on the EA-81 vehicles, with the 2WD being the larger capacity.

Welcome to the Board from another Michigander. Not real familiar with your tranny, but I'll go along with Skips idea of binding cable/lever. Different tranny set-up yes, but the center diff-lock on my XT-6 was acting the same way, wouldn't fully shift all the time. I just sat there cycling it on and off, and now it works. May be worth a try. You can also spray some lithium grease into the end of the cable, then cycle it on/off, spraying more grease every so many times. This will work it up into the cable. However, this is if one can get to the "free" end of the cable. Like I said, not real familiar with your tranny set-up.

Offered in the '90-'94 Manual, and '90-'91 auto, Legacy's, the non-turboed models of both.

The stepped part in the center of the clutch disc goes toward the tranny. Always..........

Not to be mean or rude.... But bring the donor and recipient up here and do it my driveway so I can watch. Maybe I went about it the wrong way, don't know. Just know doing the conversion out in the driveway with limited amount of fab equipment wasn't easy..........

Had that happen with the #1 plug wire 'cause I got in a big hurry and didn't run it the right way. These engines just don't run to good on 3 cylinders.

Welcome to the Board! Free is always good, got the GL-10 Wagon free, just had to pay his gas to get it here. Lots of good info on here, along with good people too!!!

PM sent.

It can be done, but it ain't easy. I've done one car, don't think I'd want to do another. Stuffed the drivetrain from a '90 Geo Prism LSi into an '86 Chevy Nova, both of which were re-badged Toyota Corrola's. The Nova was an auto, the Prism was a 5-speed. Getting the master cylinder for the clutch mounted in the right spot was a real pain, really helped though that I had the dash out of the Nova during this, for wiring purposes. During one of my sleepless nights, I ran across a site where someone had swapped the drivetrain in his 'Roo. The clutch was hydraulic, and he did manage to get everything mounted as needed. But,, even he said it was a pain. So it can be done, just ain't easy. Myself, I prefer a linkage type of clutch operation. Lets you "feel" what the clutch is doing better than cable or hydraulics. I just may build the linkage set-up for mine when I get to that point. Thought it over, have it drawn out in my head, just haven't got beyond the 'thinking about it" point.

Well, I'm thinking that's a fresh-air intake on the DS. Haven't evicted the mouse nest yet to see what it is, but it's a factory hole in the floor of the area under the wiper cowl. The intake for the heater system should be on the PS of the cowl area. I'm reletively new to the EA-82's, having just picked up the Wagon, Sedan, and Xt6 this year, but I'm learning. Kinda helps to have one to tear apart to see how things relate. I have the dash out of the Sedan, as I'm stripping it down for parts. I took pics of the backside of the dash, and of the heater system as it's mounted in the car. I could get a few more detailed pics of the heater control system, door actuators and such and send them to you in an email if you like. Could try to do that tonight or tomorrow. Let me know....

Don't think I'd go untill the 3k mark with it in, but a couple hundred miles won't hurt. Thinking I have around 2-300 on mine, but I do alot of short-trip driving in it, or did anyways.