TomRhere

From your discription of the hose temps, I would say that the core itself is ok. It really sounds like you have an air flow issue to me. Not sure of where to look, but it really sounds like a flapper isn't moving, or you have some obstruction in the airstream. Pulling the blower motor would be the easiest an a good place to start though. Maybe pull the flex duct that's between the blower housing/heater box and see if you get good air flow there 1st. As far as pulling the dash goes, the EA-82 dash is way easier than the EA-81's are. I've pulled both... Moosens has a write-up floating around on here on pulling the dash out of the EA-82 vehicles. The '86 Sedan I have sitting in the garage has a mouse nest sitting right on top of the heater box, could possibly have caused some issues there. There's also one in he fresh air intake under the wiper cowl on the driver side. Pesky little varmits anyways..... FYI; A properly working heater system doesn't have enough cooling capacity to keep the engine at the "normal" area of the temp gauge, usually the half way mark, it will heat up enough to have the cooling fan come on. Yes, you can use the heater to help cool an over-heating engine, but it's not enough in itself to do a proper job alone.

HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjuster.. They can make a wide range of noises from a light tick to a heavy clack. Some Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), or a 1/2 quart of ATF in the oil may help get them to quiet down. It took me about 3 months to get the ones in my XT6 to be quiet, and it ranged from one making various noises to what sounded like all of them rattling. I tried various grades of oils, with MMO, and ATF. Not sure what oil I have in there now, but I have some ATF in there. Haven't started it since before Thankgiving, but she was quiet last time it ran. Oil pressure was always good.

PM sent...

Those really sound like the heater core lines to me. They should connect to 2 hoses going over to the firewall. There are however, some smaller hoses for coolant that connect to the manifold. Can't say right now where each one goes on the EA-81 Hitachi manifold, been awhile since I've looked at one on an engine. All of my carb swaps have been to the Weber 32/36 and an EA-82 intake. Only seen one Carter manifold, and it was off of the engine, fully stripped. As far as the heater hoses go, you only need to remove one from the manifold, and it will go back onto the one you're swapping onto your engine. That would be the one that goes to the steel line that runs behind the manifold.

Thanks Mic.. That's the one I was talking about. Didn't know it was still on here, thought it went the way of the lost Repair Manual stuff. Figures mine would be tied to the hi-beams only, (I didn't know that the earlier ones were tied to both)... Maybe I'll just run new wires to the control relay (instead of wiring in new DPDT switch) and use the stock switch. Hmmm....

Truer words have not been spoken!!! Ummm Pat, are you sure them there ain't Brown/Yeller wires stead of Red/White uns?!?!? Sure look to be Brown/Yeller to me. EDIT: Just returning thread back to rightful topic. That DMM is good for the general around the house/car stuff and will do you good. I prefer the Fluke brand myself, but I do abit more stuff than your backyard mechanic. And yeah, you want to be sure to have it set to voltage and not continuity when checking live circuits. Just ask my co-worker about the time he checked continuity on a LIVE 480VAC 3-phase fuse. Needless to say, his DMM didn't look to good afterwards.

Yep, that'll work. Somewhere around here, I have the wiring diagram drawn out. I'll have to look for it, and see if I can get it on here.

Sadly, Yes....

My list is a short one, but HEY, I'm basically all alone up here. 86subaru MilesFox, ZannyDook, RGaff, and a few other members of the "Original" Subaru Alliance, of whom I can't recall names of, Sorry Guys, been awhile..... Rubaflu (where's he run off to??) That's about it, but really wanting to meet up with more.

I agree. If you were to feel the hoses going to the heater, you would find one much cooler than the other when it starts blowing the colder air. Classic sign of a restricted heater core. Sometimes, you can back-flush them by swapping the hoses around, (be sure to swap them back). Sometimes, you can use some cooling system flush to clean them out. Doesn't always work, but it's a quick try. As far as using any system flush, I've found that NAPA's "Mac's Radiator Cleanser" works the best of any. I've left it in longer than the 20 minutes that the directions say to on a few vehicles, doesn't hurt anything doing so.

Man, that really sucks. But atleast everyone involved is still breathing.. Not sure about your end of the State, but down at this end, studded tires are a no-no. I'll put my dibs in on the radiator. But I kinda hate taking advantage of a bad situation.

Not sure on the 1st Gens, but on the 2nd Gens, you have to swap gas tank also, unless you're lifting it at the same time. On the 2nd Gens, there's a indent in the gas tank for the rear diff on the 4WD, it's not there on the 2WD (FWD) ones. So you may want to look at the tanks on both to see if they need swapped.

Nothing wrong with an exhaust puffing smoke rings. As said above, it's just timing of the exhaust pulses. Years ago, a friend of mine had a built-to-the-hilt Chevy 283 not sure of HP, but it ran goooood, dual exhaust with glaspacks. Always puffed smoke rings with low air temps.

All of my BRATs had varing noises from the pump, with the '82 being the noisiest. I believe it's just the pump reacting to the pressure build-up in the system. Hard starting issues would be more related to carb or ignition issues, than fuel pump, as the float bowl has fuel in it and pump isn't really required to start engine.

If I had my way, I'd have one of each year. But the Mrs. has put the kabosh to that idea. Any sheetmetal will work for a heatshield, the aluminum is just easier to work with, for me atleast.

Haven't done it to any of mine yet, but I've made heat-shields out of aluminum roof flashing in the past. Comes in various widths, easy to work with, and fairly low on price for the amount you get. Want to wear some heavy gloves when working with it though, slices skin real easy. Cut it longer than you really need, then cut a couple of tabs into it where it would be over the pipe(s), bend tabs as needed to reach pipe(s), use radiator hose clamps to hold tabs to the pipe. Want to leave about an inch of air space between it and the converter. May last for awhile, may fall off under some heavy off-roading. But you have enough left over to make more, and it's not real difficult to do. 1st one may take you a bit of time, but any after that will be quicker. If you get it wider than whatever it is you're shielding, you can bend the sides down a bit to stiffen it up some.

Recently had to flush oil/coolant mixture out of ex-M-I-L's Neon, due to bad HG. I used a cup of Dawn dishsoap in a 5 gallon bucket. Pull the radiator, and stand it on end with cap end down, and cap removed. Will help get most of the crud out of it. Do this while you wait for your heads to arrive. Once engine is back together, and running, leave T-stat out for now. Fill system with soap solution, run it for 1/2 hour or so, after it gets up to temp. Drain and flush with fresh water. Refill with soap solution, and repeat as needed, until solution is free of oil. Be sure to have heater on Heat setting so core gets flushed also. Works for me....

Oil pressure sounds good. The gauges on these cars are not real accurate, so don't be surprized if it reads "0" pressure when it's warmed up and idling. Lifter tick could just be from sitting, and may go away after driving it for awhile. MMO, Seafoam, or ATF will help clean out the oil system. Oil pan, rocker covers, front crank seal, are the easiest gaskets/seals to do on these engines. Have to raise engine some to do oil pan though. Recommend fresh plugs, wires, cap/rotor, along with both fuel filters. Would also change the coolant hoses, and drive belt(s), just to be sure of things.

The '86 BRAT and the XT6 are drivers, others are parkers.

My '82 BRAT had an ECM under the dash when I got it, also came with an EA-82 engine swapped into it. ECM wasn't controlling anything in the engine bay, so I think you can ditch yours. I swapped a Weber onto that engine, and ditched all of the extra stuff around the manifold. You'll need some caps to block-off the un-used vac ports. As mentioned before, vac lines needed for brake booster, heater controls, disty vac unit, all others can be capped.. I've since swapped that Weber onto 2 different EA-81 engines, no ECM(s), and ditched all of the extra stuff on them too. The Weber is currently on my '86 BRAT mounted on an EA-82 carbed manifold. Some modding of the manifold is meeded to put it on the EA-81 engine. I can help you with that if you want to go that route.

Have to give him a bit of time, see if he does good or mucks it up. I'll give him credit for actually wanting to try to do it. He's got to be better than the goof ball that was in office. I think we need more like him....

Depending on the RPM's at the time it happens, it could be a really stiff jolt. When an engine backfires, it not only misses on the clyinder that caused it, but the next couple of intake strokes are pulling in the burnt gases that are in the intake runners also. So more than one cylinder is affected.

My 1st thought when I read your post, also. Backfiring thru the intake would cause a sudden jerk, and a squeak of sorts. The jerk would be more pronounced with a manual tranny vs an auto. Just my .02..

Keep that 1/2 gallon. Find other 2 jugs, save any you can drain from engine system in other containers, like clean milk jugs. Call the store and tell them about it, see what they want to do. As mentioned, dropping a Lawyers name and the word lawsuit, should get their attention.....

That's just not right!! If you still have any left in the jugs, take it back, demand money refund. Make mention of Lawyer, law-suit!!!!!! Be sure to keep some around for proof, too.