TomRhere

Most valves bend at the head/stem area due to contact with the piston. Have seen a few that were bent on the stem itself, real bear to remove from guide by the way when that happens. If the valve seated against the seat when the head was sitting alone, I wouldn't think that it would be bent. Usually quite obvious that something is wrong when a bent valve is against the seat. My theory on sequence of events here. HLA stuck in the colasped position (momentarily) allowing rocker to fall off. Rocker fell against valve spring, and cam lobe caught it collaspsing the spring enough to allow keepers to fall out. HLA, now free of being held by the rocker, was pushed apart by the oil pressure, (could be pushing that one abit though??). Wonder if maybe the rocker is bent or malformed enough to hold valve off it's seat when everything is where it should be. Or maybe there's something in bore for the HLA?? This that Wagon that Jim just bought??

Headgasket failure; cylinder to cylinder, cylinder to oil passage, cylinder to water passage, cylinder to oil return gallery, cylinder to the outside of engine, oil passage to water passage, oil passge to outside, water passge to outside, water passage to oil return gallery.

Our '95 Pontiac Grand Am has 2 oil lights in it. If the 1st light comes on, you're low on oil pressure. If the other light comes on, I have no-clue... Even the Owners Manual says it's nothing to be concerned about. Huh,,,What??? Called the dealership about it, never got a good enough answer. The 2nd light has lit a couple of times, but it's been maybe 18 months ago since the last time it did so. Why have 2 oil lights on a car, especially if one of them isn't supposed to mean anything????

You're right, it doesn't make sense. Got arcage from the plug wires even after swapping on a 2nd new set???!!??! Don't think cap/rotor would have anything to do with it, but wouldn't hurt to change them when you get the right ones. May not have anything to do with it really, but check the wiring of the coil for correct polarity. I've seen engines do some wierd stuff cause coil was wired wrong. But can't say that I've seen arcage because of it.

I remember reading an article in some mag years ago about a guy that added nitrous to a turboed engine. He plumbed the nitrous jet into the turbo on the air side so that it would help spool it up faster when the jet hit the vanes. Maybe you could do that with the compressed air on the exhaust side. I have no-clue really, don't have anything turboed here, and have never held a turbo in my hand for a look-see of it

Thanks for the info guys. Was wanting Loyale specific info, and that's what you gave me. The mechanicals I figured were the same as ones I've owned, but wasn't sure on body/interior/option stuff.

http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2439 For the front.. http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2063 For the rear...

Hey Miles, you talking the trailing arms themselves here, or the body points where they attach??? Good to know about the parts/year thing. I haven't given it a full look-over, but it looks to be in real good shape from what I did look at. Body is clean for the most part, slight amount of rust on bottom of front PS door. Appears to have sat for awhile, cause the engine/tranny is covered with that white stuff that aluminum likes to grow. Didn't check tranny lube, but the diff lube looked clean. The engine oil on the other hand definetly needs changed, way dirty and over full by atleast a quart. I did tell Harry that belts and hoses should be changed, and maybe even the T-belts, along with other tune-up related items. Also told him that popping a T-belt is nothing to worry about, engine wise. Will have to wait until he gets the front DS door to see what color inner panel is on it, but the one on the Wagon needs to be replaced. Something got hot down by the door pocket, melted the plastic and there's a burnmark on the DS seat. Seat I have, door panel me no got, for PW's that is

On your disty hold-down issue. I was told that the bracket for the hold-down on an EA-81 disty can be flipped over, puts the bolt hole on the otherside of the disty. Maybe that'll work on this EA-82 disty, but using the EA-81 bracket. Worth a look atleast. No clue on clearance here.. But maybe pull disty out and drop it back in to put the hold-down tab where it needs to be. Would have to re-do the plug wires, if you can spin disty. Not sure if you could clock the plug wires enough, ( hard to picture everything while sitting here at the 'puter), and still stay within the slot of the hold-down.. Just some thoughts is all........

I know Miles Fox has done this also. Not sure what year engine he used, but it was a carbed one. Thinking it's the Wagon that he's been driving lately. Not sure if he swapped back to the Turbo engine, yet...

Popped the driverside T-belt maybe?!?!! Or maybe that pesky little screw that holds the rotor came out. Pull the disty cap, watch rotor while someone cranks engine. If rotor don't move, it's either the screw, or the T-belt. Just my best guess......

I can get a "good" 2nd out of my '86 BRAT. EA-81 Webered with an EA-82 carb intake. Front axles don't like it to much though!!! Starting to do the gritchy-gritchy-gritchy thing. Ain't going to do 3rd without a bit more work done to it, needs a new disty for one...

Just talked with an elderly gentelman that recently bought the afore mentioned Loyale. I saw it sitting in his driveway on Sunday last, left my name and number. Talked with him (Harry), by phone today, and then stopped by to check the car out. As stated, it's a '92 Loyale Wagon, 2WD 5-speed, AC, PW, PS, SPFI, little over 92,000 on the clock. Silver w/Blue interior, real nice body on it, very little rust at all. Needs a DS front door, (dented but not bad), but the car lot has one for him. He hasn't drove it more than the 1/2 mile or so to his house from the lot he bought it from. Harry is in his mid 70's, and may or may not do the needed repairs to the car. This is where I'll come in. I will be his mechanic, but will need abit more insight to this line of 'Ru, I drive the somewhat older ones myself. Not sure as of this writing what the maintenance history is, but do know a few things to check-out and/or change. Tune-up, filters, check T-belts, oil change, gear lube. Just need abit more insight as to other things that may need some attention at this time. I'll have to wait until he gets it plated to do a test drive. Gave Harry the web addy to this site, hopefully he'll stop in to say Hi, atleast.

1st gear, Oh yeah!! 2nd gear, Yeah Baby!!! 3rd gear, Yesssssss!!!!

I think it'll be okay also. With the exception of the XT-6, Subaru's use ATF in the PS sysytem, PS Fluid is compatable with ATF in this instance. There are some makes of cars that require PS Fluid "only" though. Subaru's are not one of those, thankfully..

My Brother is a good one for that. Got an Ex-Brother in law that drove his car for a week with the oil light on. Brought it to me cause it was making funny noises. Asked him about the light being on and he said he didn't know what it meant. Here's your sign!!!!!

Pull the vac line off of the modulator, if it drips ATF out of the line, the mod is fubar. Also, burned ATF will slightly irritate your eyes if you were to be standing in the exhaust plume coming off of the car. Been awhile since I've had one go bad and can't quite recall what the exhaust smelled like.

86 BRAT-Maroon 82 BRAT-Black 2-88 XT6's-Black 84 BRAT- Light Blue 86 Sedan- I think it was Light Blue originally. Has a Miles Fox repaint on it now. 88 GL10 Wagon-Silver 86 BRAT-White

When I got my 6, there was very little if any "free-play" in the pedal, so I adjusted it. Got about 7/8" "free-play" in the pedal, but then it wanted to grind going into 1st unless I was stopped or slowly rolling, plus it felt "notchy" shifting into higher gears. OK, more adjustment needed, and that's so fun on these cars, really difficult to get wrenches in there. After the re-adjustment, I have about 1/2" of "free-play", but it still wants to grind a bit going into 1st, but not as "notchy" for the other gears. Less than 1/2" of "free-play" just don't sound right to me. I'd like to know what you come up with on yours.. Mine will slip if I do a hard nailing of 2nd on dry pavement, I know better than to try a hole-shot in 1st. Maybe I just need a new clutch pack.

Been a couple of decades since I played with multiple carbs, but it does sound like float level on one of them is off a tad. Having never seen one of these on a 'Ru, which side of the carb is the float on, (when viewed from behind steering wheel please), just so I can get myself orintated here.

Yeah, you don't really want to "polish" the intake side, but smoothing it out some does wonders. You want to get rid of any casting flash or bumps in the runners or ports, and leave it with a "roughish" finish. Smooth really, but not "polished", you want to see the stoning marks. Now on the exhaust side of this, you want it as smooth as possible, "polished" as in near glass smooth, but not quite that smooth.

A little tip for you, or those doing this swap. For your upper radiator hose, use the EA-82's lower radiator hose.... It has just the right curves in it to fit from the T-stat outlet to the EA-81's upper radiator fitting, some trimming is needed, but it fits like it was made for it. Done this twice now when doing the EA-82 carb intake swap onto an EA-81 engine. Both the EA-82 carb and SPFI intakes have the T-stat outlet in the same place, so it'll work... I can do a pic if someone wants to see how it fits. Not sure if I have another complete EA-82 lower hose here, but I'll look.. Ifso, I'll do a pic of where you do the cutting....

Thought that the Turbo cams had less over-lap of the valves, or something like that.

Yeah, 2 turns out from "lightly" seated is the base setting. You'll want to set idle speed at/near 750 RPM's. Then you turn mixture screw in "slowly" until it starts to stumble, turn it back out "slowly" until it smoothes out again, (count number of turns, be they 1/4, 1/2, or full ones). Now, turn it out until it stumbles again, then turn it back in untill smooth, (once again counting turns). You want to try and get it near the middle of the "stumbles". If your RPM's differ from intial setting, turn idle speed screw to bring it back to where it should be, and repeat the mixture adjustment. Sometimes you can get it right away, or within a couple tries, sometimes it takes some doing. Also be sure to check ignition timing before, and after, as it will have an effect on idle speed also. I know, Subaru's use ported vacuum for the vacuum advance and it shouldn't be a factor at idle, but still check it.... Also be sure you have no vacuum leaks anywhere, as they will mess with you in a bad way.

I don't see where it would be a "bad thing" to do. Would compare to putting the EA-82 carb intake and a Weber on the EA-81 engine. Makes 'em "breath in" better. Done that twice now, the '84 BRAT I had, and the '86 BRAT I'm driving now. Need to get a freer flowing exhaust on it though... If one does a proper job of machining the intake, (or an adapter), and does a little port-n-polish on the intake runners and head ports, coupled with a free-flow exhaust, I think it would be a little screamer. I've only seen one Spider intake in person and that was a while ago. But aren't the runners off-set from each other side to side? I believe they are, and made that way so that the "pulses" don't cancel each other out when they re-bound back into the plenum chamber. Going to a bigger TB shouldn't have any detrimental effect on that, anymore than ripping the factory stock intake and carb out on a Chevy 283 an slapping on an Eldebrock intake and a 600 carb. Lots did it, and loved every minute of it..... Just my "old" .02...........