TomRhere

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27370 Link is to electryc_monks thread where he had same thing happen. Tells how he got it back in without tearing anything apart. Didn't stay, but he did get engine to run for a while before it came back out.

I could store your ride here, but it's more in the middle of the State then the SE side. Send me a PM if you're ok with my area.

Can't recall who it was that posted it, but someone posted that the rear shocks from a Chevy Chevelle are 4" longer and a direct bolt on to the EA-81s. Sorry, don't recall what year either, maybe doing a search will turn up the info.

I'd check the fusable links 1st. Check for voltage on each end while connected, or un-plug them and check for continuity.

My '88 GL-10 Wagon, and the '86 Sedan both have single light per side, was thinking that the EA-82 bodies were all like that myself.

Nothing chiseled in stone here, but I'll see if I can make it down this weekend. I'll let you know....

I agree about the durablity of it, needs a bit more tube here and there. All said and done though, a decent job so far, just needs finishing.

Put a Weber on the '84 Auto BRAT I had, also swapped the intake over to the EA-82 type, as it has larger port opening for the carb. Being this BRAT has an Auto tranny, it is a dog compared to a Manual, but it did improve the performance of it greatly, fuel mileage went up also. My vote goes to DO IT!

Wishing I would've had more time to spend at Jim's looking at this issue. I was down that way picking up my Grandson, and couldn't stay long. As for the oil in the carb, it was caused by the PCV hose routing and with one hose having a kink in it. Re-routed all of that stuff, so it shoud help with the oily carb issue. Vacuum line to Disty was hooked to manifold, swapped over to the carb port. Ignition timing was near center of the adjuster slot, (remember, no timing light), and I played with different settings to see how it ran. Turning the disty clockwise, improved running of engine, but it still wasn't right. At idle in Neutral, if you gave it gas, it would rev up, but it stumbled alot in doing so, twisting the Disty improved this, but not greatly. The thought of the Disty being offf a tooth was just an idea, and not a determination of fact. Why the Ac quit working is a mystery to me, as it was working but the idle-up gizmo was not fully hooked up. Bracket on throttle missing along with vacuum hose to it from solenoid on strut tower. Jim found needed items and hooked that up, after I left. Going to see if I can free-up a day here to make the trip back down and give it a better looking over. Check ignition timing fully, check plugs, and whatnot. Engine does smoke some out of tailpipe, but that could be from the oil getting into the carb, and may clear up. I'll bring my compression tester along, do a test on that, see what's what.

Possible blown HG, pull a compression check. Also, could be one of the rockers fell off of the HLA for that cylinder, pull the cam cover off and take a look. Happened to electryc_monk.

Pic of tubes, not as bad as they could be, but still gunked. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6660&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Just for those that didn't know, here's the difference between the EA-81 and EA-82 carb ports on the manifolds. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6660&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Just curious here, but where in Michigan are they heading?

Gotta love those "easy fixes". Simular stuff occurred when I picked up my '82. No crank by key, Hmmm. Jump it at the solenoid, crank but no fire, HRmmmmm! Hot-wire to the coil, fired that muther up, drove it onto trailer. Get it home and start checking things out. Find the feed wire to the Fuseable Links was not making connection, was there, just not "on" the tab. Push it on, everything is as it should be.

Lose the restrictive "stock" exhaust system from the cat back, and go with a 2" system will help.

Yes, special size drill bit and tap for doing a Heli-coil. Drill out hole, tap in threads, insert Heli-coil, install normal bolt into new threads.

I could pop an end-tank off and take pic of the tubes. Cutting it with saws-all would be a bit tricky me thinks, major destruction of tube area would be likely.

This is why your 20 something year old ride wants to run hot. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=87 Pulled this rad out of the White '86 BRAT yesterday. Haven't drove it any since I got it from 86subaru, but was just putzing around with it. Swapped on a better carb and said what the hey, gots new radiator here, this one sorta looks bad so why not. Think I did a good thing!! Now, on to fixing exhaust and DS damage so I can get the door to shut properly, it got smacked good, bent the jamb back so door don't latch, bummer. But I can fix it!!! Edit: The oddball look of it being not square is how it actually is, racked to one side, and has about a 2" twist to it from of one tank to the bottom of the other. Also, the top brace was totally off of the tanks, thing was just sitting in there, not good! Also added pic of DS damage.

Ifin I recall things correctly, the 4WD has the HH and the 2WD don't. The spring on the HH valve is there to put tension on all of the clutch actuating components, IE: pedal, cable, throw-out fork/bearing, just to keep everything together so to speak. Now on a 2WD with no HH, you would have to have that spring on something else, and the throw-out fork is a good place to put one. Same fork for both 2WD and 4WD, so hole is there for the spring on a 2WD. I ran my '82 BRAT with no HH, and no spring on the fork. No problems really, other than an already well-abused clutch from a previous owner allowing his kids to beat it up out in the corn fields.

Ignition timing that is to far advanced will cause an engine to overheat, or atleast run hotter. Just my .02

I'll take a look at it when I'm down that way Saturday, ifin you're home that is. 'Tain't no expert, but I do own-have owned, a few of these here EA-81 types, maybe I can locate problem for you. As they say, "two heads are better than one".

Sounds to me like the float or the needle valve. Do you hear any sound from the carb other than the hiss of it drarwing air, such as a snapping sound, if so, gas is making it past the needle valve of the float overfilling the bowl. Try pinching-off the main fuel line to the carb with a pair of wide-jaw pliers, if the idle straightens up, your problem lies with the float/needle valve.

Ifin I remember right Jim, it is plumbed into the PVC system. Kinda-sorta remember seeing it when I was down at your place and got the choke system hooked back up on it.

Absolute minimum would be 6", best to go 8" though for ground clearance. Have the same idea here for my radiator, mount it in the bed, didn't even think of the waterpump though, hmmmmmmm.

Seem to remember reading that one of the Guys from the ausubaru board had flipped the final drives in a tranny for reversed output. Maybe it was that he was just trying to do so, not sure as it's been awhile.