Petersubaru

17mm on my outback

I to have experienced the 5/40 to make more noise, especially if the car has been sitting for a long time..But this was with a car that had many many miles on it and the tolerances are wider along with waeker hydraulics, unlike the newer vehicles of today...another reason why I started this thread, would be to recommend an oil to my daughter other then the castrol 5/30 syntec which can not be poured out of the bottle during the winter...interesting enough a 5/20 Honda oil will pour at the same temp...wal marts brand 10/30 is actually stiffer in cold weather then the castrol 10/30 dino..I am rambling to much here ...

the TBN is a little higher in the 15/40 dino..some kind of trade-off I guess

the mobile 1 0/40 when it first came out was not listed to be used in some of the very exotic vehicles like the Audi, but since the oil has been upgraded to the desig nated VW/502 catagory it has almost a UNIVERSIAL application...According to mobile, since both my vehicles are past warranty, this oil can be used in both my VW diesel and gas VW van...the only oil that can be used in the newer diesel freightliner vans.. it is not classed as a diesel oil that can be used in a gas application like the 5/40 syn..

I read somewhere back that the Mobile Delvac 5/40 did the best at keeping the motor quiet...has anyone tried the Mobile 0/40 recently with the same success...it has now the VW502 plus good for both the diesel and gas

at tirerack.com ...Goodyear Fortera TripleTred...lastest in all round tire with very high satisfaction...

Rockauto.com

just reading the Royal Purple website ...they say, their oil "tenaciously" adheres to engine surfaces, thus reducing wear at start-ups etc...I was wondering if anyone knows if this claim is a by-product of all good synthetic oils like for ex. shell 5/40 or a special feature of the royal purple products

the 30-60k filter change seems to be in line with my 86 turbo...

just purchased my 2001 Outback ...I can not find any info on replacing the fuel filter from the owners manual in the glove box...there is also no mention of it under the "recommended maintenance" from the dealer...is this "kinda" a life time filter like the tranny screw-on filter

I don't know about the by-pass system as to be any better or even as an improvement...in an age when we need to be consuming less thru better efficientcy, I can only think about the canister type filters such as Freightliner(chysler)or VW, were by their diesels are running 10,000 miles between oil changes because these filters are taking out anything larger then 10 microns...they have literally extended the oil change intervals by 4 times since the mid eighties ...what has subaru done?.. they (subaru) have asked us to increase them ??? I can only ask, are these motors not as good as they were in the past?

I am wondering also...my all wheel drive VW van gets better mileage when dis-engaged, so I am assuming the subaru can do the same??? ...time will tell

I have a 2001 Outback... some time ago I was told by the subi dealer here in my town, that they inform all new drivers about this option???..as a way to pick up a few mpg...no mention was ever made if this applied to automatics only...eventually, I will go in and ask them about this...any further info from you would be appreciated...

Thanks, I will look into it...also, would you know the micron rating of the smaller subaru filters..with the tight tolerances of the subaru bearings, a smaller micron filter would be very important...then certainly the size of the filter would mean nothing here if the micron rating is poor (larger particles)....

and of course, to much anti-sieze could prevent the plug from properly grounding the current

Porcupine; if you can find the thread again , I would very much appreciate it.. thankyou

I certainly agree Quality is #1..I am just seeking to understand why the newer subarus have smaller filters then the older ones, (both being an OE product), while at the same time the oil change intervals have increased for the newer models when all subarus are running cleaner then ever??...one very small filter fits all ,2.5l or 3L ???? ... I fail to understand how going smaller can be an improvement...I asked these same question to the tech guy at the subaru dealer where I just purchased a 2001 outback, since they would like me to come in for there factory recommended oil changes at 4000mi or less...I asked them, WHY,..their simple response is: "that the car will last longer"...A little hard to believe since I have 2/ 1986 loyales with 250,000 miles on each them with excellent compression and have gone with far longer oil change intervals then 4000mi...but then again I have always used the larger filter (OE diesel filters from VW)...

I can't seem to find the info when useing the search...I would like to know how to turn off the all wheel drive ...I had read here a long time ago that it involves the placement or removal of a fuse somewhere under the hood

I reason I orginally asked the question is that I assumed that the EA series oil filter would fit..but no way...the threaded fastening hole is to small...I found this out in the middle of an oil change and far from the store...once at the store I could not find in there limited selection a larger filter with the slightly larger opening...

just wondering if some one is useing a larger oil filter then the stock one available for a 2001 outback 2.5L...I was surprised to see that the filter is even smaller then what is for the older EA82 models...I get the impression that filtering the oil in more modern cars is not that important anymore

I just bought a 2001 outback,40k with auto tranny and was wondering if I should get the extra warranty to cover the just in case tranny repair...I read on planet subaru, it could be up into the thousands of dollars for repairs

sometimes it becomes very difficult to know what actually works, and GD may have a point there with useing ATF in the tranny...I just drove about 2000 mi with 100% ATF in my tranny, then drained the oil(very blackish) and refilled with 50% ATF and the rest with wal-mart synthetic 10/30... now I can down shift into 2nd smoothly from 35mph ...this was impossible before to do, even going around a slow corner was a fight to get it into 2nd.... also I had no luck with expensive synthetic tranny oils such as redline or amsoil...

after going to the rad website, I discovered that my rads are single core not double...no wonder they did not last very long.... quote=Turbone]I just bought 3 rads from the Radiator Barn(radiatorbarn.com). Top quality, brand new and not overpriced. Theres also Performance Radiator @ 1 877 723-4286.

corrosion from the outside on the rad will destroy the poor quality ones very quickly from all the salt that is thrown on the roads where I live and drive...4 or 5 yrs at best..... quote=GeneralDisorder]I can't possibly imagine a new radiator lasting any less than 10 years+ in CA. That's just silly. 3 years isn't long enough for any damage to occur if you never changed the coolant even once. What makes you think the radiator is history if I might ask? GD

up in the yukon or alaska when the temp gets to extremely low temps...in the 60's VW recomennded 100% ATF as the motor lubrication of choice as stated in owners manual ..the only way to be able to start the vehicle safely in 50 below weather...but that was then...