Petersubaru

since you did not mention toyota I thought i would included it..in other words the N/Amer. GM chevy, the saturn/honda suv, and toyota/pontiac vibe all shared the same coolant, being gm dexcool..(a different formula from other compnaies such as zerex, havoline or prestone..

..having seen the occassional unknown coolant / air leaks in many other cars within my family and friends, ..with the introduction of air to Dexcool it will slightly sludge up or contain rust particles within the coolant depending on the type of motor..with G05 within a very short period of time to leave large white crusted residue within the hoses and have had aluminum parts corrode severely..for the Green coolant it just crystalizes around moving parts like the throttle body shafts etc...the last case I saw actually changed the idle of the car...I bought a VW vanagon 13-14 yrs ago and on the advice from a vw engineer at the vw headquarters at a car show I went to on their site..I was advised to use the gm version of dexcool and have since done with absolutely no problems..the previous owner ran the vw silicated coolant and the thermostat had to be changed because of excess white stuff building up on it..to this day it has the same thermo and is absolutely clean in appereance and so is the bottom of the overflow tank... also I run my '86 jetta diesel on dex for the last 10 yrs (I bought it used)..my '86 loyale has been on dex since 2001 and I see nothing happening to dissimilar metals since the same copper style rad has been in there for 15 yrs now.. ran my 86 turbo on dex for 5 yrs and the rad rotted from the outside in..off to the scrapeyard it went..nor am I a proponent of dexcool, but just what works from my experience..

.. VDO/siemens makes some nice gauges but difficult to find..I personally like this gauge and will be installing in my subaru since I will be keeping the car for the long run.. my wife never looks at the gauges and has already burned up one motor..the same for my son in law who also burned up a motor (driving till they sieze)...both occassions a closed thermostat..this gauge comes with the idiot lite..buzzer and the ability for own settings .. http://prosportgauges.com/premium-white-pointer-clear-lens.aspx..sorry wrong pic..you will have to look for the coolant temp gauge ..

..I usually shop at Napa..they carry the "Zerex Green" and the Shell low silicate formula..no 2-ethyl like many of the other green colored or long life dexclones..read the back side of the bottle..some conventionals have 2-ethyl in them..

.. the only systems be it Dexcool, GO-5 or Green that turn into some acid eating crud are neglected systems..any reading of the cars manual will say that the extended use of the original cars coolant is for when it is new..after that time or mileage is to be cut to approx 60% or maybe even less..

..no belt etc..6 cyl has a chain

.. they do rebuilds at http://www.ramengines.com/ ..

.. these motors are not all that popular..I would look at a wireing diagram for both yrs specifically at the connectors were the present harness and newer harness of the motor will join and see if they match by function and not by wire color..I am sure there are other issues to look at, but is beyond me... also just how good is this other motor..any HG issues??..they are really not rebuildable for the average guy and would be shuned by most machine shops...not really worth$$ doing on a car that old..

I thought I would post a report, so after 7hrs of having the coolant under pressure it dropped less then 1.5 psi ..from 16psi to slightly under 15psi and one tablespoon of coolant added...for me it is like finding a needle in the haystack ..anyway I hope the owner will spring for a dye tester and if so i will again post what I found..so simple yet difficult..

..I am familliar with hydrolock..my first experience with fel-pro intake gaskets..

...sorry I did not mention it..new intake subi gaskets were installed and throttle body rubber base seal.. the tale pipe does not smell of coolant and all the plugs are identical in appearance..I will hook-up the pressure tester for all night and remove the exhaust from the manifold ..maybe I will find something..also I will probably remove the throttle body again and seal off the coolant passages to it since those rubber base seals are similar to the micky mouse ears of the oil pump, being very thin in appearance..11 yrs ago I took my '86 up to Alaska and back with cracked exhaust ports, once the engine heated up it sealed itself but every morning I had to add some coolant...however I did pass a lot of stranded people with coolant problems in the middle of BF no-where.. almost forgot, the vac gauge reads steady at 20...

this is for FI TB loyale and since I have the coolant and leakdown tester, I was asked by a friend to check the cooling system, ..once the coolant tester was ready and the rubber hoses finished expanding we let it sit there for 1hr and the needle did not move a hair ...as it is being pumped up we sprayed soapy water and found nothing...new plugs and rad cap were installed plus 110 psi into the cylinders trying to find any signs of leakage..none.. also for another 1hr we let the car run at 1500-2000rpm in the driveway and it produces white smoke, and water dripping from the exhaust pipe... but every once in a while it will stop momentarily, and once it is up to operating temps 200-210F it just stays at the temp and the rad cap does not open at this point..my question is..after about 45min the smokeing tail pipe stops and is completely dry..yet coolant needs to be added every time this test is done (3times)..spark plugs remain very clean.. what is cracked that would open up when heated..

..I have this one since the store is 2 mi from me http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html ..surprisingly this gauge was "spot on" at 21psi..hook up the silver attachment to the "in going" fuel line..teflon tape also needed..

..fuel filter replacement would be a good place to start..fuel pressure and volume check would go a long way in diagnosing..

..I knew there was a lot of water in the gas tank because I could see it pour/drip out of the exhaust, far more then usual,and the car had a slight miss.. I also knew this was not a headgasket issue because I filled the cylinders with over 125 psi and thus no leaks..my battery tester was always hooked up..very little fuel in the tank to begin with so filling with fresh fuel was easy...occasionally it would start and run for a few seconds but would run very erratic and then shut off..most of the attempted starts just turned the motor over, nothing, ...and as time went on, the starts sounded like it was ready to the fire-up, but a no go..this lasted for day with many attempted starts..a spare starter I have, so it did not matter if I burned this one.. maybe you have something else going on..did you smell the plug for fuel after attempting the start..my plugs had no smell of fuel and when looking into the throttle body after someone tried starting it with me keeping the throttle closed, I could see fluid but the fuel smell was very, very weak in odour..like I said, maybe you have something else going on..maybe fuel pressure..mine was OK

..wireing problem to the ecu at the large connector located on top of the motor was a problem..also before that water in the gas had to recycle itself thru the system..apparently this car had sat for some time with a near empty tank..after about 10 starting attempts (perhaps a lot more) and some new fuel with some B12 added, it fired up and has been doing fine since ..I knew something wasn't right when there was no smell of fuel on the plugs after some starting attempts..

for me it was easier to replace the disy then chase down electrical readings..but in my case the disy was not the problem..

I believe getting a hell of a shock (spark ) will tell you nothing about the disy sending the signal for the FI to fire..

maybe sticking your nose within the throttle and smelling for fuel after you have tried to fire it up..would that work..I don't know, never done it with a FI..however it will work if it was a carb..

I just had the same problem of the injector not firing..in my case it was wire related going into the ecu..in general the FI needs to get a signal from the disy for it to inject..easiest way to find out is replace the disy hopefully with a spare one..hope it works..check for spark at the disy to see if the coil works..maybe the ignitor is shot..seeing spark from the disy does not tell if the optical unit inside is working correctly..seeing spark from the disy will also tell if the rotor is still fastened properly..good luck...

..try exchanging the relays for ones that do work..they do fail slowly over time..and sometimes can be seen with slight burn marks on the pin(s)..maybe your trigger set-up is the problem..

..I "think" all ECU's are interchangeable, but the wires leading out of the ecu end up in different locations within the connectors..for example I have a '90 spfi conversion I did, but my spare harness (1992)from the intake will not fit the connectors '90 at the harness leading from the ecu..then again when looking at the spfi conversion pin-out info , it is altogether different from the '90 and '92..maybe it is a little more streamlined in the US...

the word "loyale" has been removed from many parts houses for the mid 80's..as if they never existed..the parts guy behind the counter asks me for a corresponding vehicle to obtain some very simple parts...

'92 loyale did run smooth etc.with 125K/mi .now it will not start, and I don't smell any fuel on the plugs and the throttle body also has virtually no smell of fuel..now once out of many starting attempts will I find some fuel in the TB..if the car does start, the injector is intermittently working when raiseing the RPM but seems to run smooth at idle, but with a lower rpm then normal..and then it will suddenly no longer run...my newly aquired HF fuel pump tester shows the FP pressure to be at 21psi, taken just before the TB.(spec for NA)..Can the ignition switch and crank sensor work occassionly, or is it, when they fail do they fail completely..would the same apply for the ECU ??

... I had no dripping of oil or coolant, just some smudge on the back lower head...by this time it is to late to think your vehicle is reliable anymore for long haul and the subi conditioner will not work..the gaskets are disintigrating and those small black particles are floating around in the coolant..when it gets really severe you can see them accumulate at the bottom of the over flow bottle by looking underneath with a flash light..