Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. Yes there is a difference, the automatic ignition will have key lock mechanism in there that won't allow you to remove the key unless the shifter selector is in park. It's possible I supose to jumper the wires together for this lock mechanism, but without seeing a wiring diagram, I couldn't say for sure.

Thanks for the pictures. That's pretty clever with the silicone hose!

This works! I hated the chime in the 06 Wagon I had, but this trick works wonderfully.

I've adjusted my latch as much as I can, so I'll have to go with the tape method

So did you just wrap electrical tape around that metal latch piece? I've noticed that on my Impreza that even with adjusting the metal latch piece the rear gate doesn't have as much "tension" when closed, so it does appear to rattle more. I may have to try the electrical tape trick.

You can read over my awd & 5spd swap to get an idea of what's all involved. You won't need to worry about the AWD swap parts, just the 5spd parts. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

Hi, Yeah you should be able to remove that plastic trim piece. There are typically little plastic clips that snap into the plastic trim piece and the tailgate. Over time they will loosen and you get the rattles. What I have done on my Impreza wagon is use some adhesive backed foam weatherstripping between the tail gate and trim piece to absorb some of the rattles. A trim removal tool like this helps get the pieces off. Also, when you get the trim piece off, take another ride around the neighborhood to see if all the noises are gone, or if some are still there. There may be some connectors or other items in the tail gate that are rattling.

Welcome to the USMB. Not sure if you are still having a problem or not. The manual button on the gear selector does NOT force the system to full AWD. That manual button is a very primitive form of traction control and when the gear selector is in the 3 or 2 position it will keep the transmission from going into 1st gear to reduce wheel slip on initial take off. Can you provide any additional details to the exact problem when not using the manual button?

The 6spd is about the same size as the 4EAT, and I had to strap down the trans to my floor jack so it wouldn't move about. It actually worked pretty well. Here's some pics of the install craziness More pics: http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/6spdswap/14 I really need to buy a trans jack...

Yeah, if you clean up the wiring and keep the RCA's and power leads separated that should help with the alternator whine issues. The VSS "should" bring the cruise, AWD, & ABS back. Did they work before?

Welcome to the USMB

I pulled the 4EAT out of my Legacy without a trans jack and while it wasn't fun, it's doable. I had to work to get it to clear the end of the lower engine stud. Looking back, if I would have removed the pitch stop mount bracket on top of the trans, that would have helped.

Nice work on the stereo!! Looks really good and that you spent time routing and hiding the wires. I love a good custom installed stereo that's be done well

Welcome to the USMB. Most "chain" type auto parts stores will pull the codes for free and let you know what it is. I'd recommend doing that and reporting back on what they find.

Wow, that's a pretty cool website! No I don't know of a similar site like that in the states. You'd have to compile all the 50 different state licensing statitics to come up with something like that.....and I'm not sure if that's public information or not.

Welcome to the USMB. Good to see that these older subies are still around over there, even if there are only a few left on the road.

Have you tested the input voltage at the blower motor connector with a multimeter to see if there is anything abnormal there?

The main difference is between the 90-91 MY's and the 92-94 MY's. The parts book lists different part #'s between the rear FWD & AWD top hats, but I ran AWD rear top hats on my Legacy when it was FWD, so I couldn't tell you what is specifically different. Edit: Saw your reply over the BBS indicating they are different. Yeah if you can take some pics, that would help out other folks as well. Thanks

The reason they call for the iridiums is because the plugs on that motor are a pain in the butt to change, so Subaru calls for plugs that last longer. You can use the standard v-power plugs with the knowledge that you may need to change them more frequently.

I don't know of any people down in that area, but there may be some. Also, you could probably check out the regional forums on NASIOC as they may have some more Subaru folks.

It would be easier to swap the rear diff than trying to swap the front diff. It'll be a lot more involved to do the front....unless you want to keep the 2.2's final drive ratio.

I don't know of anyone that makes one. Your best option is to have a local exhaust shop fab you up a "test pipe" to use.

Ok, thanks for sharing.

You'll need one of these tools to get the window crank off. From there, it's pretty straight forward. I find it easier to remove the door panel when the window is down. As far as speaker depth, your best option is to remove the door panels, put the window down and measure the clearance between the face of the door panel and the window. The window is what will come in contact with the glass. That measurment will be your max speaker depth. If you want more depth, you can try and use speaker spacers, which allow the speakers to come out further, but depending on the door panel, the speakers may hit the door panel. I think fitting the 7x10's in the rear doors would be a stretch. You'll probably need to stick with 6-1/2" at the most.

Do you have a link to a write-up or post on how to do this that you can share for others?