Legacy777

My recommendation would be to keep your eye out on ebay for factory manuals. As NorthWet mentioned, the trans manual is rather large, and scanning the whole thing is a chore. I have some additional random scans here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ Code 45 is the atmospheric pressure sensor code. It doesn't mean the ECU is bad, but if the atmospheric pressure sensor is bad, then you'll have to replace the ECU. Definitely replace the ECU and check the wiring.

You missed one word he mentioned.....the "engine" cooling system. He's separating the systems, radiator, engine, heater core. As to the validity of that.....ehh....I see his point, but I question it. The reason being.....you can bleed the system by opening the cap, and letting the coolant circulate and move the air to the highest point. Granted it may take a trip or two with the system pressurized to move trapped air, but it does work. I'm not saying what he said is incorrect, but if that were the case, I'd say it's a poorly designed cooling system as a whole. I also think the air bubbles will more move then he leads on....at least in a normal car configuration. He may be running something different on the airplane.

I'd check the wiring. You could try jumpering/grounding the manual switch pin on the TCU, to see if it works then. You can use this information to do that http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page2.jpg

You are incorrect. The transmission will shift. Manual mode does nothing with the gear selector in 1st gear.

A more free flowing exhaust can go either way. It can improve the engine's breathing, which should improve efficiency, but it'll also improve power, and if you're on the go pedal more....your mileage will be less. As for the BOV, don't get one. Subaru uses MAF sensors, so if you blow off air that is already metered, the engine is actually seeing less then it metered, and your a/f ratios will be rich. The stock system uses a bypass valve, which dumps the air back into the inlet side of the compressor. This also aids in keeping the compressor spooled during shifts.

As I mentioned, the atmospheric pressure sensor is located in the ECU, and the TCU reads it from there. Check out these scans of the TCU i/o http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page2.jpg This manual has a wiring diagram that shows what I'm talking about on page 322 http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ Check the wiring between the ECU & TCU. If it's fine, then that could indicate the atmospheric pressure sensor in the ECU is bad. Or the TCU is acting up. You should be able to find used ECU's or TCU's for a reasonable price in the marketplace.

The valve body is inside the transmission right above the transmission oil pan. It has passageways that channel fluid to the different solenoids and makes everything work.

Regarding the locking doors when you open the door. Read this http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html It may or may not solve all your issues. It sounds like you have some additional problems.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_b_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_b_diag2.jpg additionally http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag2.jpg As to how to get at it. It is on the valve body. The transmission pan must be removed to get at them. I don't recall if the duty b solenoid is in the upper or lower side of the valve body. If it's on the lower side, it can be removed without dropping the valve body. Otherwise the valve body must be removed.

In addition to the cable not working properly, it sounds like the control unit is not working either. This thread over the legacy central bbs goes into detail as to why that happens and what the fix is. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1142

Was the power light blinking at start up, or do you have a constantly lit power light? Can you please elaborate what you mean by the transmission not going into AWD. The atmospheric pressure sensor is located inside the ECU. There is a wire that allows the TCU to read the atmospheric pressure sensor from the ECU. Here is a pic of the ECU & TCU location. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

What year & model vehicle do you have? Removing the gauge cluster isn't overly fun. An easy way to test whether the manual mode works is to leave the car in D, from a complete stop, floor it, so the car accelerates to redline, the transmission will shift. Make note of the speed when the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd. Now repeat the test, except with the gear selector in 3 & 2, and with the manual button depressed. The acceleration should not be as good, and the vehicle speed at which the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd will be much higher then the 1st to 2nd shift. For example, my 90 FWD AT legacy shifted at 40 mph from 1st to 2nd, 80 mph from 2nd to 3rd, etc.

I'd suggest posting in the WTB marketplace if no one knows the size.

Just use zip ties.

Pretty much any of the newer EJ motors will physically bolt into the forester

I would probably say no they're not going to be swapable.

It's possible, but not likely a tranny flush will do anything.

What have you done for engine management? Are you using the stock ECU? You mentioned it being a 2 liter. Is this a JDM engine? The US models only came in 2.2 liter. Please provide more info on the wiring and control setup, as that is likely the issue.

The stream should be constant. It sounds like the compressor is shutting off, or something plugged (which is less likely IMO)

Your comment about the FWD fuse. The operation sounds normal. With the fuse inserted you only have FWD. So the Duty C solenoid is working. The stalling on the highway....I had similar issues, which turned out to be the MAF sensor. It did not leave a code. Only one of the last times did it leave a code.

You may want to check out www.legacygt.com/forums

You should have struts.

Glad you got it working. Yeah, being without AC in texas is just not a good idea. Mine was out last summer. It died while I was up in Austin. Driving back to Houston was no fun!

I dug up some info here. The fuel efficiency "island" or (3d type graph) as it's called is typically determined from test data...at least that's to my knowledge. The two axis are BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) & Engine RPM. The island or z axis is BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) Here are two pictures showing the graph http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/techinfo/auto/bsfc_island1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/techinfo/auto/bsfc_island2.jpg I took those graphs from this document http://www.cleancarcampaign.org/pdfs/MPG2K.PDF Back to the torque comment. BMEP is pretty much a direct relationship to engine torque. BMEP = 150.8 x TORQUE (lb-ft) / DISPLACEMENT (ci) Got that from here http://www.epi-eng.com/ET-BMEP.htm So, with moving the equation around, and solving for torque, you can input the BMEP values from the two graphs, and have the graph in values of engine torque. What this is more or less saying is that IF you wanted to map your engine on a dyno to find out where your max torque spots are, those would probably be your most fuel efficient spots to run your engine. This of course is not taking into account wind resistance/drag, rolling resistance, etc. Josh

Sorry Gary! I haven't done it more then that time have I??