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myfinalcoffinx

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Everything posted by myfinalcoffinx

  1. Unless you are talking about the EA81, I believe that the cyclops came in 1982.
  2. I actually thought about that, and went ahead and checked, but they all four get sparks.
  3. 1) Yes 2) I used NGK, the same ones I always get. 3) I'll check that PCV Valve connection tonight Thanks! -Kevin
  4. I thought about that, but I wasn't sure what I could have touched. Any ideas would be helpful! And yes, it is getting up to operating temp.
  5. I'm not sure where to adjust the choke, so I'll check into that tonight, and the timing is fine... I haven't gone to snowies yet, but I can't wait until I have to... snowboarding season woo hooooo!
  6. grossgary, Thanks a MILLION for this! I just changed cap and rotor at the same time as the coil, a couple weeks ago. Now that I think about it, I'm getting this short squeak (like a little "bark") coming from my brakes in time with my wheel rotating. I hadn't thought anything of it until now, so I"ll get in there and take care of that tonight. I don't have fuel injectors, but I do have a question about the O2 sensor. I have a hitachi type 1 carb and I'm curious about the diagram. It shows the sensor on the diagram, but does not specifiy where it goes. When replacing the sensor, is it a part on the manifold or carb that I swap out, or is it a part somewhere in the exhaust that sends a signal to the carb? In other words, where exactly is the part that I want to change? Again, thanks a TON for all of that info! -Kevin
  7. I actually changed the coil out about five tanks ago, and there was no decrease whatsoever, but I did the same thing at first, as well as having two of the plug wires going to the wrong cylinders. Vroomvroom pfut. Thats the noise it made when it fell on it's face for a day or so...
  8. I'll start with a little background: I used to get around 320 miles per tank (about 26 MPG) and I was quite happy with that. I put a lot of miles on my baby (about 60/day) commuting back and forth from school, work, and home and at the new rate, it's going to cost a LOT more in gas than I can afford. My question is as follows: Last weekend, I replaced my PCV valve, air filter, both of my fuel filters, and changed my spark plugs (and my ignition coil, but I don't think that has anything to do with this), and changed my oil (every 2000 miles.) I didn't touch anything else, and I'm planning on replacing my O2 sensor in the next week or so. I also checked my tire pressure and its at 38 on all four tires. After doing all of that, I'm down to about 240 miles per tank (about 19 MPG OUCH!) It's going to start cutting into my wallet, and I'm curious about what could have happened to drop my milage so drastically and what I can do about it.
  9. I'm not sure why it registered in OHMS for that one. my meter automatically switches between volts and ohms as approproiate (except it's not so approproiate in this case.) I'll pick up the nice one from work tomorrow, and see what I can come up with. In the mean time, can anyone clue me in on how to perform this "voltage drop test" or point me in a direction to where I can learn?
  10. I thought about that, but I didn't bother. I'm glad I didn't bother since I had a stroke of luck and found those other pins.
  11. My parts car has power windows (1982 wagon, I don't know if it would be any different) but neither door has a speaker. It does however have the usual "in-dash" speakers.
  12. I did that a little less than a year ago, and I've checked every single ground connection in the compartment. Tomorrow afternoon I'll for sure take both the battery and the alt. into a couple auto stores and see what they have to say. The symptoms come and go, and for now, they are gone. But cold nights and icy mornings tend to bring them back, so we'll see how this plays out. Also snowman: I got proper results back for the first three tests, but on the fourth test (negative battery, alt. case) i got something like 9 OHMS... huh? thanks, -kevin
  13. Thanks Kurt! The ones that I got didn't have any pin or anything, and all I could think was WTF? Luckily, my girlfriend bought the cheepy ones at the same time I did (yesterday) and hers had the pin. Slid it in, and BAM. We were good to go! Thanks a million though! -Kevin
  14. I have a CD deck in my dash but I've had that longer than I've had the battery, and nothing modified anywhere else. No floods, no lights or anything. Only thing electrical that has changed recently was when I fixed my rear defrost grid from 0 lines working to all lines working, and I installed a new ignition coil.
  15. I guess this post was a bit premature. I'm currently running an Optima yellow top and I've LOVED it for a couple years now. It still holds a charge, so I guess that's not my problem... but thanks for all of the tips. They are a bit expensive, and when it finally does die, I wasn't sure what exactly to do. Anyway, if anyone knows anything about electrical problems, I would appreciate some help. I started another thread called "low voltage-- battery, alternator fine" and it's located here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46624 Basically it outlines my problem, and tells what I've already tried. Again, I would appreciate any help I can get, as it stresses me out. Thanks, Kevin
  16. I retract my earlier proclaimation that I'm getting a new battery. Although I'm still having trouble with my lights dimming. My voltage meter in the dash reads about 8 before I start it up, but when I test the battery with a tester it reads 12.69--- right where it should. When I start the engine, it jumps up to about 11 on the dash, and then as I turn accessories on, it starts to drop off along with my dash lights, headlights and my idle rpm. Also, sometimes it takes a little bit longer of a crank than it should to finally get the engine running. Like I said, I've tested the battery after it sat for a couple days, still at 12.69, and I tested the alternator by pulling the positive contact from the battery when the car was running, and it just kept chugging along. What else should I check, and what could be the cause of this problem? Thanks, Kevin
  17. The photo that I'm attaching is of my previous wiper blade on the top of the photo and what I hoped to replace it with on the bottom of the photo. Did I get the wrong type or is there an adapter that I'm missing? How does this work? ahhhhhh Thanks, Kevin
  18. What do you guys recommend? I'm planning on replacing my battery, and I'm curious as to what kinds you suggest. I currently have an optima, and I was happy with it, till it started going out. What brands are good, and what should I avoid? Also, is it worth the extra money to get the non-mainteniance ones like i have right now? Thanks!
  19. at low RPM, all of my lights dim and fans slow down. is this likely a problem with my alternator or a problem with my battery?
  20. wasn't there a feature a while back just like this? what ever happened to that? i really enjoyed looking at it, and i'd love to see it again! great idea!
  21. It's kinda late, and I don't feel like checking right now, but lets suppose that is the problem, how do you recommend I fix it? Is it worth it, and is it time consuming? Thanks!
  22. I'm looking to replace the windshield on my '82, and I'm curious what kind of price I'm looking at. First, I don't even know if the glass shop will carry the proper window. What has been your experience with that? Second, I'm definately going to need new rubber around it, where does that need to be purchased and for how much including the silver. Can I salvage the silver from my current setup? Finally, what is a typical price for this kind of thing? Thanks, Kevin
  23. My 1982 GL wagon's 4wd shift lever sits weird, and let me explain. A couple years ago, right after I got the car, the engine gave out and we had to get it swapped. That was fine, but when that happened, for some reason, the person who dropped it in hooked something up weird and now the shift lever doesn't sit "flush" to the panel like it did before. Now, instead of sitting at 0 degrees, it is at approximately 20 degrees and whenever I slow too fast to a stop (or even sometimes from "freeway speed" to "offramp speed"), it pushes it even further up, sometimes nearly engaging the 4wd. So my question is this: where should I look for a solution? Is it a matter of an adjustment or what. I've poked around a little bit, but I'm unable to locate the reason it sits weird. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Kevin
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