azsubaru

Sounds like an easy fix!

If the oil pan has a hole in it, I think I've got one in the garage you can have.

Is that the one that was on Craigslist, out in Glendale? I called about it a couple weeks ago, but couldn't get them to call me back. Good luck with it!

GD is telling you the truth. Switch to a 5 speed 2WD. At 80 mph, I turn about 3800 or so in my 91 Loyale, around 33 MPG on a good day ,28 in town. It shouldn't be that difficult, and the trannys aren't expensive.

Well, here goes, but I'm not sure I like seeing all this at once: 91 Loyale 2WD 5 Spd The usual oil leaks Intermittant grinding from rt front wheel New - a bottom end rattling (rod knock?) Needs 2 tires Needs front Cat Sloppy Shifter Worn synchronizers Clutch chatters a bit Paint is cancerous-looking Dinged up windshield Needs Windshield trim Dried-out rubber trim Various body dents and dings all around Dirty/noisy volume control on the radio AC needs charged Defroster switch needs new cover Hole in one front headlight Needs rear hatch struts But... interior is almost perfect, there's no rust, it starts in about 2 seconds, and it gets me to work and back every day. Plus lets me embarass my kids by picking them up in it at school:banana:

this should get you through easily, thanks to Miles Fox: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

The catalog at GCK says 80-84 are all the same. Check it out at http://www.gck.com/

These guys above know a lot more than me, and I just want to add a +1 to what they are telling you - what they are saying is absolutely right on the mark. The spark comes out the coil wire, into the cap, then is directed through the rotor to the correct plug wire. So if you've got spark going into the disty (coming out of disty end of the coil wire), and no plugs at all receiving spark, then all you've got are the cap and rotor. Buying the rest of the distributor isn't going to help that.

I have a 91 Loyale, manual, 2WD, SPFI. I replaced the original silver ECU with a black one about 6 months ago. As GD says, there has been NO noticable difference in performance and NO unexpected codes thrown.

RTV? My Altima uses only RTV, it works fine, and the surfaces look pretty much the same as the EA82. I don't know if anyone has done it on an EA82, but I am thinking of trying it the next time I seal a Soob oil pan.

Is the injector plugged in/working? IIRC, you can check it by plugging in the Dcheck connector, then the injector should click continuously.

What the other answers say is all true. It's not unusual to have that problem after you reassemble an EA82. Take it for a good drive - don't baby it - and the lifters will most likely quieten down to the pre-disassembly level.

A fun winter project! Those cardboard boxes full of parts look exactly like the ones in my garage.

Here's a picture of the CTS. Just scroll down to the post by Skip: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83125&highlight=temp+sensor

I've done this before - neighbors stared like I was destroying the planet single-handedly, right there in front of their very eyes! : )

Just thought I would close this thread out. I changed the head gasket, and yep, that fixed it. I didn't pull the motor, just raised it up a bit and did it right there in the car. When I started it up, massive white smoke out the exhaust! What the -?? Tightened up the intake gasket, still no change. Anyhow, after a few minutes, I finally realized coolant had probably poured down into the exhaust when I removed the head. Doh! Took it for a short drive and the collant finally burned off.

Did you say the CEL has not been on at all - and you have 8 different errors? It should be on. maybe it's burnt out. I think you should first clear the codes and wait for the error to show up again on the ECU, otherwise you're just guessing and it sounds like you've done enough of that self abuse already. The idle switch might be a possiblity, either dirty/bouncy or could just need adjustment.

This is a classic 180 degree off symptom. I don't know what you have or haven't tried, but If you haven't actually took it loose, turned it 180, and tried it that way, you should at least try it. Many of my most frustrating problems have come about because I just "knew" that it couldn't be (fill in your unchecked item here).

Thanks for the response. I was afraid it would be something like that. Thanks, Bob

Could I get some ideas before I start tearing things apart? My SPFI Loyale is leaking a LOT of oil off the front of the driver's side head, just in front of the exhaust port. It's about where the head is butted up against the block and it starts as soon as I start it up. What the heck is right there to leak? It doesn't seem to be lined up with the cam seal, cam tower, or the valve cover, and is far to the left of the oil pump and main seal. All of these things were sealed up about 5000 miles ago. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Bob

right. well, maybe - one straight up and one straight down? Did you do it like this? http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm This looks right, if you're sure it was the compression stroke. They should be straight up and straight down. If not, you're off a tooth or so. That could be a belt off by a tooth or so.

Flush

Yikes! with all that, I would put it off. It's a bit of a risk, but it'll probably last for months.

http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66619&highlight=purge+control+insanity

Pulling the engine is definitely the way to go. With a cherry picker hoist, you can do it by yourself. Think about doing your seals while the enigine is out, too. Good luck!