azsubaru

I drove mine with a 68 ohm 10 watt resistor for almost two years; the CEL never came on once during that time (at least with an EGR code). I recently put a solenoid back in because emissions testing is due again. 5 Watts should be ok, but less than that, you are going to overload the resistor's rating, and it may burn out. What I did was cut the plug off the bad solenoid and soldered the resistor across the wires, then plugged it back in. So putting a solenoid back in was a piece of cake.

It couild be simplly that the brake shoes are worn and they need adjusted or replaced. If there's too much space between the drum and shoe, you can hear a thump when you hit the brakes. If you hit the brakes and hear the thump, then you immediately hit them again and it doesn't thump, then that could be your problem.

The Loyale came with R12, but you can convert it. With the potential problems messing around with AC, if you've never done it, take it to a shop. It's not that expensive, and you can end up spending more by just trying things. Not to mention, you can get hurt. Do a search on this board and you can get lots of threads from people who have done it.

Saw this on ebay today buy-it-now for about $140.00: Item number: 270055143683 10624 Pioneer Clutch Kit Includes - Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Throw-Out (Release) Bearing, Alignment Tool and Pilot Bushing/Bearing. I don't know the seller or the product, just passing it along.

If the moisture is in there because of a hole in the front of the light, just take the bulb out and drive (assuming it's not raining out) for a few miles. It should dry out quickly from the air moving through it.

Oops - missed that!

There's a picture of all the SPFI parts from GeneralDisorder here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66953 They are discussing carbs, ignore the subject and scan down to the picture of parts on a blue table. In the top center you'll see the throttle body. If you picture that in your car, the idle air control valve is attached to the throttle body, located just behind the power steering pump. In the picture it's just above and to the right of the fuel filter. It has an electrical connector and 4 screws holding it on. Use a pair of pliers instead of a screwdriver to remove those screws and you can take it apart and clean it out.

Another possibility - fuel pump could be going bad. The one on my Loyale had other problems, so I replaced it last night and discovered that it fixed a similar hesitation problem that had been on-going for quite some time.

What's the easiest way to find out - without driving all the way out there to look at it? The owner doesn't know what it is.

I've had both on my Loyale, and for street driving, prefer the wider (185) tires. The car tracks better, so less tiring on long trips, and should stop faster, although I've never tested it.

Thanks toboth of you!

Ay?? What??? I think Black Sabbath and Emerson Lake and Palmer did me in 30 years ago.

Saw this on Craigslist. Doesn't look like my EA82. Is it an EJ22, or?? Wondering if it would fit in my Loyale.

My 91 Loyale is FI, and like grossgary says, the fuel pump is just in front of and inside the passenger side rear tire. Take a look down there and you'll see it. When you first turn the key on, before you try to start the engine, you should hear it run for a second or so and then stop.

You're talking about the EGR or purge solenoid, right? There's a thread on this very thing from a couple weeks ago. a 5 Watt resistor is what you need, more is overkill but won't hurt anything.

Sounds like the idle switch to me, too. On my 91 it's actually part of the TPS.

Probably. Take it out and turn it with your hands. With the kind of noise you mention, the movement will most likely feel rough. I'll bet that's the problem, although this part of what you said seems inconsistent: "sometimes if you press the clutch pedal to the floor, you can't get the shifter out of first" You should replace it and the pilot bearing, regardless. The condition of the pressure plate and clutch disc will be pretty obvious once you have them apart.

Sometimes a throwout bearing will do that. It usually works the opposite way, but it's not really all that unusual for one that's going bad to make noise when released and then become quiet when the bearing is under load.

Good advice on the Idle Air Control Valve. Mine has been a bit sticky for years, but cleans up quickly. Also make sure the idle switch is set correctly and that the TPS works smoothly.

A worn throwout bearing could make a noise like that.

I paid to have this done several years ago. I'm not sure I can explain this very well, but I watched it done, and here's how he did it: The guy first put a piece of thin rope into the rubber gasket slot and ran it all the way around with both ends sticking out a couple ft. then he put the glass into the gasket, right over the string. Then he put the glass/gasket in position on the car from the outside as best he could, with the string ends sticking out inside. Finally, he pulled the string inward, and as it came out, it ran around the gasket, the rubber gasket pulled itself over the lip, and presto, the glass was in. He made it at least look easy.

Sort of - it fools the ECU into thinking the solenoid is ok. You've reset the codes, and then after a few minutes, the ECU notices the problem is still there. You just haven't fixed it yet. Replacing the EGR SOLENOID will fix a code 34, unless there's a broken wire or corroded connector somewhere. And believe me, there are guys on this board that know a lot more than the dealer about these cars. It's for emmissions control. You can search on this board for arguments about what it does or doesn't do. If you fix it, the light will go out, and you may keep the atmosphere a lttle cleaner. That's about it. The "correct" procedure would be to replace the EGR solenoid.

56 ohms should work, and putting one in the EGR circuit doesn't have anything to do with the purge solenoid, although you can use the same trick for it. All you're doing is fooling the ECU into thinking the solenoid is there and working fine. Here are two possibilities: 1) Make sure you replaced the right one - it's easier to cut the wrong wires than you might think. 2) You're burning a little less than 3 watts of energy, so the resistor needs to be rated for at least 5 watts or it will burn out. I'd recommend a ceramic resistor.

Yes, but you can read them yourself if you want. The ECU is up under the dash above your right foot, and here is how to read the codes: http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.3978 2181.art

91 Loyale Wagon, 2D 5Spd - I get about 28-30, all of it surface streets, stop and go. I think 33-34 might be possible on the highway.