azsubaru

1 vote to avoid Accel - I had bad luck with both the coil and the wires. The coil died completely in about 6 months, and the wires kept burning out. I'm back to OEM coil and NGK wires.

I hope somoeone has a fix! I have the exact same problem, a 91 Loyale, too. Tested the wiring, gauge moved right up. Tried a used sender, no reading. Bought a new sender, still nothing. I didn't use anything on the threads. I'm pulling the motor in a few days for some other things, and intend to take a good close look at the sender and pump to see if there's something screwy in there that is visible.

An O2 sensor can cause it to do that, too. Next time the light comes on, you should look up under the dash and get the code off the ECU before you shut off the switch. Code 32 is the Oxygen Sensor (3 longs, 2 shorts) If everything is ok, it will blink 5 shorts and keep repeating. If your car was once an automatic, it will blink 7 shorts instead of 5.

A bad O2 sensor 'can' cause problems similar to yours without causing a CEL light. I have had that exact thing happen with my 91 Loyale. There is a code for a bad O2, but you can have problems long before the code shows. I don't remember the code right off hand.

Sorry, a slight hi-jack - does anyone know the bearing number?

Replacing the distributor bearing is really easy and inexpensive. Just buy a high quality bearing - number 6200 - for 5 or 10 bucks. I got one from NAPA, plus they sell them on ebay. Here's a great thread on how to do it with a complete rundown and picture from Rallyruss: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54746&highlight=distributor+bearing This job is much easier than it looks, takes maybe a half hour.

Replace the solenoid with a 68 ohm (or anywhere around that) resistor and see if the light stays off. If it does, you still have a bad solenoid. If it still comes on, you have either a wiring problem or a bad ECU, most likely a wiring problem. The connector could be your problem.

The guys who already responded know a lot more than me, but I had a misadjusted idle switch that was not quite closing and it caused this same thing.

As Heartless said, now that you've cleared that out, it should run higher for a few minutes until it's warmed up. If it countinues to idle high after it's warm, then it either needs the idle adjusted, or it could be that the idle air control valve has a problem, and that's why someone had it blocked off.

Hoozie's right, as usual. Shouldn't be anything in there at all. Take that fuzzy thing out and put a new clamp on it.

I bought my 2WD 5 SPD 91 Loyale new, $9,999.00 Dark red outside, gray inside. It's got 199,000 miles now, been as dependable as you would expect. Inside is in really good shape. Outside, no rust, but the clear coat is cancerous looking. I drive it to work every day, and rev it past redline all the time. Still has the complete original exhaust, although I'll have to replace it soon. Compression is good, but it has a steady miss which makes it fail emissions. I'm getting ready to fix that and also replace a badly leaking tranny. In the past 2-3 years it has started having things wear out due to the killer sun here in Phoenix. Almost anything made of plastic (which is a LOT) is getting brittle and falling apart.

At least on my Loyale, you just turn it - it's pretty tight at first.

I fixed mine. The spring attaches to a nylon tab that had gotten brittle and finally broke. You can give it a shot - it's no good as is, so what do you have to lose? Yours may be different, but here's how I got it apart - there's a pin in each end - drive them out with something - I used an upside down finishing nail - and the plastic ends will slide off. Then upwrap the cover and there are three clips that hold it on. Snap them off, and you can slide the cover down far enough to get to the metal rod. The spring that retracts the cover is on the driver' side. There's a little dimple in the rod about 3 inches down that holds the nylon retractor in place. I think I just drilled them out to free it up. Then pull the whole thing out the end. This was the hardest part for me. I pulled it out with vice grips and cursing. Then you can see what the heck is wrong with the spring. In my, case, I simply reattached it to a different spot. Reassemble, making sure you get some tension on the fully retracted cover, and you'll be ready to go.

I think Poncho has a pretty well laid out plan. The kit worked fine for me, at least so far - won't really know until I go through a summer here in Phoenix. I bought a rebuilt compressor off ebay plus a low side hose from a board member, then added oil to the ocmpressor and installed new o rings. Then took it to a shop so they could vacuum, and charge it. They charged me 95 bucks for it. The whole thing cost about $275-$300 bucks, the compressor was about a hundred of that.

My Loyale did pretty much the same thing; it was the fuel pump going out. Until I put in a new pump, I found that I could smack the little shelf it sits on several times with a BFH to get it going. The time between hammer beatings kept getting shorter and shorter until I barely made it home one day. No need to hook up the green connectors, just listen for the fuel pump when you first turn the key on. It should cycle for a second or so. I'm sure there are other possibilities, but my bet is that your pump is going out, too.

I bought one from NAPA, Item #TEM409998, for about $50.00. It had ester oil, various sized seals, new 134A style valves, and a sticker to let everyone know it's been converted to 134A. I had to replace the compressor, don't know if you really need this if your current compressor is ok.

The above answers will most likely fix it for you. Also, there's also a connector for the vacuum hose inside the car. It's on the tunnel, under the dash and just to the right of where the driver's right foot goes at the edge of the carpet. If it is disconnected, you'll get the same symptoms.

(nooffense taken) I knew which one GD meant, but on a carbed car, that's probably the very screw I would think you would use for idle adjustment. Another lesson from the board! I've never touched either of them on my car, but after all these years of mechanics of unknown qualifications working on it, who knows? So, what would be a likely result of the wrong screw being adjusted? something really bad?

[quote name=GeneralDisorder #4 NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances touch the throttle body stop screw. GD[/quote] a slight highjack, with apologies - why is it that you shouldn't touch it - what happens? and how do you set idle speed without adjusting that screw?

O2 sensor - I had the same sputtering problem, same difficulty in finding it. Even with no code showing, I replaced the O2 sensor out of desperation and it fixed the problem. It took about 50 miles of drving after the change before the sputtering went away.

Just leave the rear covers on. They don't interfere with changing the belts.

The wire you broke probably was to the CTS - that sensor has two wires, and it would trigger the code 21. Also, when you disconnect a sensor, it can generate a bunch of codes like those you saw. The temp guage is connected to the sensor that has only a single wire. Subaru calls it the 'thermometer.' Your problem may be the thermometer, the wiring, or the quage. See Mark Humble's post in this thread on how to make a guage tester. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45578&highlight=black+lead+to+ground For the poor running, make sure you'v echecked everything on mellow65's list. I've personally had similar problems at different times from a bad O2 sensor, bad plug wires, a bad TPS, and a fuel pump that was failing.

yeah, not cheap. But it may still be no worse than a plane ticket, gas, lodging, food, possible repairs, etc., not to mention the value of your time. Here are two places you can get a quick online quote without sending in personal information: http://www.autotransportdirect.com http://www.dasautoshippers.com

Thaks, guys Seafoam is easily obtained , but I'm not familiar with BG 44K - where can you get it?

My SPFI EA82 just failed emissions (hydrocarbons). It has a regular miss and fails the dollar bill test at the tail pipe. No CEL. New plugs, wires, disty cap, rotor, and fuel pump. Compression at cylinders 2,3, and 4 is about 180. Cylinder 1 is 167. Does that sound like a burnt valve on # 1? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.