SuspiciousPizza

Plugs pulled, no coolant, radiator and heater core connected. I disconnected the hose going to the thermostat housing, plugged the fitting and shoved an air wand into the hose. My regulator doesn't go down that low so I just took it slow listening to the radiator cap. I can hear bubbling from the intake. Putting my ear up to the intake manifold with the throttle open. I can hear it. I can only assume it's the intake manifold gaskets. This intake came from a running engine with clean oil. I did clean up the surfaces, no sand paper tricks or anything just a brass scraper and a light buff with a scotchbrite. EDIT: I am proud to announce I have won "Smoothest brain of the year" award. I forgot to put the gasket on that goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold. I'm going to throw that on and see if the bubbling noises go away.

Okay, I'm really in need of some advice here. I have no clue what I'm doing wrong but clearly I'm doing something wrong here. This is the second time I've had milkshake oil after replacing the head gaskets on first start up. This time it's both sides. Oil pressure was bouncing in 5 psi increment up and down but was at a healthy level. 0 coolant pressure. Here's the process I've been doing, someone please tell me where I'm screwing up. I'll start from the disassembled short block. 1: Clean the head bolts, threads, deck surface, and cylinder heads. Cams, cam carriers, rockers, and valve covers are cleaned. 2: Install the head gaskets on a clean and dry block. Head bolts are oiled and toweled dry, only a light sheen of oil on the threads. Oil is also applied under the bolt head and washer. The FSM torque pattern is followed and the 3-step 22ftlb-43ftlb-47ftlb process is done. 3: The OEM o-ring and sealant is applied to the cam carriers. Rockers are greased and installed. Cam carriers are installed. 14.5ftlb on the bolts. 4: Intake is installed with OEM gaskets. 16ftlb on the bolts. 5: Rest of the engine is assembled and hooked up. Turn the key, milkshake. Am I supposed to retorque before first startup, then do another retorque? That makes no sense to me. Maybe it's just leaking from the intake manifold? But I used OEM gaskets on clean and dry surfaces and torqued to spec. I'm off to clean this engine out again. I'm not giving up yet. :[

I was giving AI a chat, as much as I don't like to sometimes it dredges up useful information. AI kept telling me that the 3-step 22ftlb-43ftlb-47ftlb was an outdated torque procedure and that a service bulletin released 05/91 updated the procedure to a 2-step 22ftlb-51ftlb procedure. Bulletin titled 1.8 Engine Head Gasket Torque Change/Oil Leakage. No bulletin number I could find. Perhaps regarding pushrod engines? However, after a call to my local dealership. I got a service bulletin # 02-85-91 released 12/91 staying that the OHC EA82's had no change to their torque procedure but the Justy did. So the book procedure is the correct procedure. :]

Oh yeah coolant definitely was where it shouldn't have been. Milkshake anyone? I have plenty. I was extremely thorough with the head bolt torque. I always had a diagram with torque order and torque values written down. I seriously doubt I followed the directions incorrectly. That's not an ego thing, I make a lot of mistakes. I really don't think it was one of them. When I grabbed my set of head gaskets I mentioned my situation to my engine rebuilder (knowledge older gentleman) and he was very confused. Only thing that made sense to him was a defective head gasket. I'd cleaned, chased, and oiled all the threads. Bolts were wire brushed and cleaned. I have no clue what happened. And it was only the driver side that leaked (also closer to the water pump... Coincidence?) the passenger side was completely fine. I spent all last night tearing the engine down, I've spent all today cleaning the heads, cam carriers, cams, oil pan, and head bolts. It's basically ready to go back together but I'm going to spend some time with a coffee and a notebook going through the FSM to make sure I don't jump the gun. It's all a learning process. :] P.S. I took a look at my head gaskets (OEM) and I noticed they're slightly bowed. They're not bent or creased and I can flex them flat with one finger. I'd take a photo but I don't want to take them out of the plastic until they're ready to go on and you can't easily tell they're bowed when they're in the plastic.

My guess as to what happened are either of the two scenarios: 1: I installed the head gaskets by the book but the time between when I installed the head gaskets and when I actually started the engine was about 3 weeks. I work 6 days a week and I had to wait on parts I thought I had but I didn't. In that time the heads, head bolts, and gasket creeped at different rates. So when I started the engine, the heads weren't torqued to spec (because everything had relaxed before the retorque) and this caused it to leak. After removing the heads, I noticed a few of the bolts didn't make a "snap" when loosening. The gaskets weren't blown through anywhere. I measured the deck with a straight edge and a feeler gauge, within spec. The heads were resurfaced and tested and passed okay. 2nd: I used a non-oem cam carrier o-ring. This could have caused coolant to leak into the oil. But the engine was also burning coolant and a cylinder wasn't firing properly so I'm not sure what to believe happened. Could be a combo of the two. I have a spare set of OEM head gaskets and OEM o-rings so those will go in tomorrow. Actually today, it's getting late. Can I reuse the cork oil pan gasket after I drop the pan to clean it out? Or are they prone to stick to the block and split? I didn't use any sealant on it. Also the cam tower sealant was still wet in some parts. I used OEM sealant and the temps when I applied it was in the 70°F range so I'm not sure what happened there. This is really turning out to be a learning experience but I sure am getting more comfortable working on this thing. Only took me 3 hours to get it stripped down to the short block with the engine in the car. That's lightning fast for my pace. :]

Well I got it to run. Dizzy was a tooth off. But now I have a coolant leak I have to track down. The cars been sitting a few weeks between when the head gaskets went on and the first start so maybe the head gaskets need a retorque? EDIT: yes it 100% is a head gasket. Now the question is do I take off the head (only 1 side is leaking, driver side) to inspect the head gasket and replace it? Damn this really sucks.

After doing some thinking, a few things of note. This is a carbed EA82 that I've converted to SPFI. I know the cams between the two are different but I've always heard they're interchangeable, just the engine may prefer different ignition timing than a factory SPFI setup. Is it best to connect the test connectors to put the ECU into "learn" mode as I'm trying to start the engine for the first time? I'm really thinking it's just a timing issue since as I've mentioned it doesn't run off ether.

Timing belts were put on by the book. Driver side, rotate 180, passenger side. Check at 0 BDC if the pulley markings are facing "outwards" and dizzy is set to #1. It is. Plug wires are in the proper firing order to the proper cylinders. Belts were torqued with a homemade version of the factory tool and a beam torque wrench. Granted the belts were used for about 2-3k miles so I had to tighten to 18ftlb rather than 2ftlb if the belts were new. But I followed the chart in the FSM. If I had to guess it to be anything it'd either be a timing issue or a compression issue, somehow, but I'm more inclined to believe the former rather than the latter. Could also be bad gas, but it doesn't run off ether which is why I think it's a timing/spark issue. Even though I have spark. I seriously doubt a coil or dizzy issue. :]

Prepare your thinking caps. I've recently done a full rebuild (minus bottom end) of an SPFI EA82 and full reconditioning of the engine bay. The engine and manifold are a bit of a Frankenstein but both the engine ran, and all of the electronics (dizzy, throttle body, ECU, maf sensor, etc) came from a running engine. Air: I just redid the head gaskets (that's why I'm trying to start this thing up and clearly failing) the heads were fully reconditioned (valves and seats ground, new valve seals, new guides, new lifters, head resurfaced). Deck was meticulously cleaned. All new seals on the throttle body. All new hoses everywhere of the proper metric sizes. It definitely has compression. Fuel: Pump is noisy but it ran the engine previously. Injector is firing and spray pattern from what I can tell looks okay. I did have an issue of coolant leaking from the throttle body into the intake but I removed the plugs and cranked it over for a few seconds a couple of times to hopefully blow all that into the exhaust or out the spark plug holes. Coolant leak looks to be resolved (looking past the throttle plate with WOT and injector disconnect while cranking). Fuel has been sitting for about 10 months with a stabilizer added while I've been gathering parts and meticulously working on this thing by the book. But even when I spray ether into the intake, it doesn't fire. It sounds more promising with the ether. I let it air out with spark plugs removed, disconnected the injector and tried to run it off ether. It sounded like it really wanted to kick over (*faint* whomp-whomp-whomp-whomp). TPS is set up properly and tests okay. Spark: It has spark on all 4 plugs, proper gaps, tested body & engine grounds for resistance (0.3-0.4 ohm from the ground to the battery). No codes from ECU. Dizzy is properly phased with the cams, it should be in a good enough range to at least kick over, maybe not run perfectly but it's in the proper range to run. I'm at a bit of a loss here, anything stand out to anyone or any thoughts or opinions? I have an FSM and I can go through everything in the troubleshooting diagram. I'm just confused, I have all the ingredients for fire but success evades me currently. Thanks :]

@bushytails You could try running a few tanks of premium (no ethanol) through it. My gauge wasn't working and slowly over about 2 months of driving the gauge came back. My guess is the premium dissolved the varnish that was gumming up the sender float mechanism.

I did some more digging and it's apparently just an indication of what transmission and emissions system the ECU is set up for. It's a non-trouble code. :]

Engine's in, most of the small bits and bobs are done. Not out of the woods yet. Tonight I was using the test connector trick to run my fuel pump. I wanted to prime the system and check my fuel lines for leaks before I add a hot running engine to the equation. When I was priming the system, I noticed the injector was firing. Is this normal? I knew when you have all 3 test connectors (SPFI engine) connected, it ran the fuel pump. However I don't know if the injector firing at the same time is normal or not. Additionally I pulled the codes while I was at it and I only got code 5. I believe I remember reading somewhere that this is one of those codes that means nothing and goes away when the engine fires up. It's not mentioned in the FSM. Any ideas on what specifically this code means? Is it just an indication of what "mode" the ECU is in? Like it's saying "this is an SPFI engine with a manual transmission". Thanks :]

Just thought I'd note something I learned. When you're installing the cam towers with the cams installed, you must first put on the rockers. The issue with the rockers is that you must use a lubricant to stick the rockers to the HLA's. If the lubricant you use is too thin, it will run down and could get on the sealing surface between the head and the cam tower. This will cause oil leaks since the RTV won't bind to the head. Rather than using an assembly lube, try using an assembly grease. Something very tacky with the viscosity of Vaseline or thicker. This will allow you to stick the rockers on without the worry of lube running onto a sealing surface. Once the cam tower is on, then you can use a normal assembly lube on the cam lobes and rockers. I still have to start up my engine and then do the retorque. I'll post back here if I learn anything when doing the retorque. :]

I personally prefer to use graphite for any of my cables. My speedo cable is starting to get pretty lazy and I have to pull out the inner cable from the sheath, run it through my hand with graphite cupped in my palm. Throw it back in and repeat the process when the needle starts its squeal and bounce routine. Not sure if it'll work with the clutch cable but you can pour it like a light oil and it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't harden like grease. You just have to be careful near electrical connections. Just food for thought.

Got my strut from PEC Australia today. Looks good. If you absolutely need front struts, they have em. No clue on how long their inventory will last though. :]

Junk yards and online (eBay, FB marketplace) would be where to source the axles. Problem is finding a car with the right axles. There's 4 or 5 different types of axles. While there's general guidelines you can follow to know which axles will be in which car, it also seems that Fuji just grabbed a random set of axles off the shelf and just put them on each car as it was going down the assembly line. It's really annoying tracking down axles. I had to buy 3 axles that were listed as the axle I needed before I got the one I was looking for. Unless you go there in person and can identify the axles, assume the person who listed the axle (new, refurb, or used) doesn't know which axle it is. In the FSM, there is an axle chart (in section 4 I believe) use that to find the identification bands on the axle shaft, the shape of the inner joint cup, and the inner joint spline count. These are your general identification landmarks. For the interim, I'm sure the Rock Auto axles will work just fine. But once you get the car rolling, I'd be saving up for used OEM axles, new front struts, a set of 4x140 wheels, some wheel bearings, and strut mounts. Just my opinion but if you're even considering dropping the car to stock height, start locating parts ASAP. KYB struts can only be found easily shipped from Australia. So shipping is very expensive, plus the "old a** part" tax. You'd be looking at $700 for a pair including shipping. Strut mounts (again, KYB brand) are also very hard to find. And typically go for $40-$90 per mount. It'd be expensive to drop the car and give the suspension the attention it probably needs or will need soon. But it's easier on the car long-term and makes the parts struggle a little less complicated. Tldr: The Rock Auto axles are a good permanent solution for a "throw away" car but if you plan to keep it long term, I'd recommend going to stock suspension. Begin your hunt for the parts required to make that swap ASAP. Last call for parts was a decade ago, we're stumbling out on the end of a bartender's broom at this point.

From what my Parts Catalog says (and it only goes up to '90 so YMMV), the Loyale used a 95AC-23 axle (PN 23221GA373) which has 23 splines and a length between boots of 242mm. These axles are actually the shortest of all the OEM axles. You MIGHT (maybe, possibly, no guarantees) be able to get away with a longer OEM axle. The 87AC axles (PN 23221GA233) have a length of 257mm between boots. The 82AC axles (PN 23221GA244) have a length of 265mm between boots. You could gain up to 23mm in axle length with OEM axles which are better quality than modern production axles. Sorry I didn't really answer your question. Me personally, I'd drop the car to standard height and swap in used OEM axles. But that's just my opinion. Second option I'd personally go for is keep the lift, buy some 82AC axles and see if they work. Third option I'd go for is getting the Rock Auto extreme articulation axles. I'm sure they'd work, but for how long? And by that time would you be able to get them again? Going to stock gives you the most flexibility with parts and greater parts longevity. I'm beating the "keep it stock" drum pretty hard, but whatever you choose to do is your decision, I can only offer my opinion. :] P.S. looking for the right axles can be a major PITA. If you need alternative part numbers just shoot me a line.

I'll just scrap the HG's and go out to my engine rebuilder to grab an extra set I had given them. Those are OEM gaskets anyways.

Sounds good. I actually installed the heads last night but I think I'm going to undo the head bolts and redo it. The front upper corner head bolts on either side went in a little crunchy and my gut is telling me to redo it. Those two head bolts were extremely caked in... Something. A brownish white powder that looked like instant 3-in-1 coffee. I had the heads cleaned but those bolt holes had some grit left in them. I missed seeing it until those bolts went in crunchy and I inspected the holes. All the bolts were cleaned and the threads were chased and blown clean. When I redo the heads then I'll make sure to oil under the bolt heads and washers. Shouldn't take too long, just undo the bolts, clean the bolt two bolt holes, re-clean all the threads, and torque to spec. Should I let the heads sit torqued for a day before retorque? :]

I have another question regarding oiling the head bolts. After doing some reading online, specifically for rebuilding EJ's, some people really stress oiling the underside of the washers (knew that) as well as the underside of the bolt heads. Doing this makes sense but the FSM doesn't mention doing that. So is it okay to only oil the threads and the underside of the washers? Or should I also oil the underside of the bolt heads? Also some people really stress using a high-pressure assembly lube rather than engine oil. The FSM specifically says "oil". I know it's not rocket science but with how rare parts are, I want to take my time and do it by the book and learn from other's experience rather than learn the hard (and expensive) way. :]

If you do wheel bearings I'd recommend buying sealed bearings and foregoing the seals. If anything take one seal off each bearing, face the unsealed sides into the knuckle and pack grease between them inside the knuckle. The seals are a real pain in my opinion. Front bearings are super easy compared to the rears, if you lift the engine & trans as a unit to get the axles out then you don't have to detach any suspension components. If anything take your outer tie rods out of the knuckle but I got away without it. Putting the axles back in, you may have to loosen/partially drop the control arms. :]

DRW makes a full polyurethane shifter bushing set (I promise I have no connection to the brand even though I sing their praises everywhere, I just believe in the product and respect the support for these old Roos). My shifter was awful before I installed them. Shifter in gear felt the same in neutral. Getting that roll pin out without dropping the transmission is a serious PITA. I ended up cutting the bolt going through the bushing out and installing a new shoulder bolt with a carbide drill bushing on the other end and an ultra-low profile nut. Clearance in there is non-existent. It's really not rocket science, however you slice it if you manage to get a new bushing in there then you'll notice an improvement. May be worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings while you're under there. :]

I am converting an old EA82 from carb to SPFI. The heads had two metal pipes, one either side, that I'd assume are for EGR. Either way, the ports for those metal pipes go all the way into the exhaust port flange so they'd cause exhaust leaks if I just bolted up my exhaust. I'd assume these ports need to be blocked off with a plate and some sealant, correct? :] P.S. I'd still keep all my emissions equipment in place for the SPFI setup, I'm just looking to adapt the carb EGR system to the SPFI system.

@el_freddodo you know what's up with the 3-digit codes for these cars? I've seen them around when doing research but I've never found a chart or spreadsheet or anything listing them out and what they mean. For instance, my car's code matches (as far as I know) what's known in the AUDM as a "Super Turbo". My car isn't turbo and I cannot tell what transmissions the supers had (some places say AWD M/T, some say FT4WD). I'm just kind of confused by the whole thing. Not to hijack, I'm just curious. :]

See above. I bought the last one from Parts Geek a few months ago and I've been eyeing their availability after this thread was started and I haven't seen any anywhere. I forget where I saw it, but there does appear to be two part numbers from Sachs that refer to the same strut. The part number I listed above is the longer version. There's another part number that is 6-8 digits long. Though when I searched that number I also couldn't find any. I bought my KYB from PEC Australia. It still hasn't shipped yet. They were messaging me last week asking what model number my "Leone" was and if the strut was compatible (I knew it was, I found a KYB catalog online). There's model codes for the cars that give a general designation of drivetrain specs and geographical market (my car is an AN5, for instance). My guess is this causes confusion from those outside the US since I haven't really heard US owners talking about their "AN5's" it's really only DL, GL, etc. Hopefully it'll actually ship and I don't just get refunded. Finding these struts is a bit of an Easter egg hunt. :]