SuspiciousPizza

After doing some thinking, a few things of note. This is a carbed EA82 that I've converted to SPFI. I know the cams between the two are different but I've always heard they're interchangeable, just the engine may prefer different ignition timing than a factory SPFI setup. Is it best to connect the test connectors to put the ECU into "learn" mode as I'm trying to start the engine for the first time? I'm really thinking it's just a timing issue since as I've mentioned it doesn't run off ether.

Timing belts were put on by the book. Driver side, rotate 180, passenger side. Check at 0 BDC if the pulley markings are facing "outwards" and dizzy is set to #1. It is. Plug wires are in the proper firing order to the proper cylinders. Belts were torqued with a homemade version of the factory tool and a beam torque wrench. Granted the belts were used for about 2-3k miles so I had to tighten to 18ftlb rather than 2ftlb if the belts were new. But I followed the chart in the FSM. If I had to guess it to be anything it'd either be a timing issue or a compression issue, somehow, but I'm more inclined to believe the former rather than the latter. Could also be bad gas, but it doesn't run off ether which is why I think it's a timing/spark issue. Even though I have spark. I seriously doubt a coil or dizzy issue. :]

Prepare your thinking caps. I've recently done a full rebuild (minus bottom end) of an SPFI EA82 and full reconditioning of the engine bay. The engine and manifold are a bit of a Frankenstein but both the engine ran, and all of the electronics (dizzy, throttle body, ECU, maf sensor, etc) came from a running engine. Air: I just redid the head gaskets (that's why I'm trying to start this thing up and clearly failing) the heads were fully reconditioned (valves and seats ground, new valve seals, new guides, new lifters, head resurfaced). Deck was meticulously cleaned. All new seals on the throttle body. All new hoses everywhere of the proper metric sizes. It definitely has compression. Fuel: Pump is noisy but it ran the engine previously. Injector is firing and spray pattern from what I can tell looks okay. I did have an issue of coolant leaking from the throttle body into the intake but I removed the plugs and cranked it over for a few seconds a couple of times to hopefully blow all that into the exhaust or out the spark plug holes. Coolant leak looks to be resolved (looking past the throttle plate with WOT and injector disconnect while cranking). Fuel has been sitting for about 10 months with a stabilizer added while I've been gathering parts and meticulously working on this thing by the book. But even when I spray ether into the intake, it doesn't fire. It sounds more promising with the ether. I let it air out with spark plugs removed, disconnected the injector and tried to run it off ether. It sounded like it really wanted to kick over (*faint* whomp-whomp-whomp-whomp). TPS is set up properly and tests okay. Spark: It has spark on all 4 plugs, proper gaps, tested body & engine grounds for resistance (0.3-0.4 ohm from the ground to the battery). No codes from ECU. Dizzy is properly phased with the cams, it should be in a good enough range to at least kick over, maybe not run perfectly but it's in the proper range to run. I'm at a bit of a loss here, anything stand out to anyone or any thoughts or opinions? I have an FSM and I can go through everything in the troubleshooting diagram. I'm just confused, I have all the ingredients for fire but success evades me currently. Thanks :]

@bushytails You could try running a few tanks of premium (no ethanol) through it. My gauge wasn't working and slowly over about 2 months of driving the gauge came back. My guess is the premium dissolved the varnish that was gumming up the sender float mechanism.

I did some more digging and it's apparently just an indication of what transmission and emissions system the ECU is set up for. It's a non-trouble code. :]

Engine's in, most of the small bits and bobs are done. Not out of the woods yet. Tonight I was using the test connector trick to run my fuel pump. I wanted to prime the system and check my fuel lines for leaks before I add a hot running engine to the equation. When I was priming the system, I noticed the injector was firing. Is this normal? I knew when you have all 3 test connectors (SPFI engine) connected, it ran the fuel pump. However I don't know if the injector firing at the same time is normal or not. Additionally I pulled the codes while I was at it and I only got code 5. I believe I remember reading somewhere that this is one of those codes that means nothing and goes away when the engine fires up. It's not mentioned in the FSM. Any ideas on what specifically this code means? Is it just an indication of what "mode" the ECU is in? Like it's saying "this is an SPFI engine with a manual transmission". Thanks :]

Just thought I'd note something I learned. When you're installing the cam towers with the cams installed, you must first put on the rockers. The issue with the rockers is that you must use a lubricant to stick the rockers to the HLA's. If the lubricant you use is too thin, it will run down and could get on the sealing surface between the head and the cam tower. This will cause oil leaks since the RTV won't bind to the head. Rather than using an assembly lube, try using an assembly grease. Something very tacky with the viscosity of Vaseline or thicker. This will allow you to stick the rockers on without the worry of lube running onto a sealing surface. Once the cam tower is on, then you can use a normal assembly lube on the cam lobes and rockers. I still have to start up my engine and then do the retorque. I'll post back here if I learn anything when doing the retorque. :]

I personally prefer to use graphite for any of my cables. My speedo cable is starting to get pretty lazy and I have to pull out the inner cable from the sheath, run it through my hand with graphite cupped in my palm. Throw it back in and repeat the process when the needle starts its squeal and bounce routine. Not sure if it'll work with the clutch cable but you can pour it like a light oil and it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't harden like grease. You just have to be careful near electrical connections. Just food for thought.

Got my strut from PEC Australia today. Looks good. If you absolutely need front struts, they have em. No clue on how long their inventory will last though. :]

Junk yards and online (eBay, FB marketplace) would be where to source the axles. Problem is finding a car with the right axles. There's 4 or 5 different types of axles. While there's general guidelines you can follow to know which axles will be in which car, it also seems that Fuji just grabbed a random set of axles off the shelf and just put them on each car as it was going down the assembly line. It's really annoying tracking down axles. I had to buy 3 axles that were listed as the axle I needed before I got the one I was looking for. Unless you go there in person and can identify the axles, assume the person who listed the axle (new, refurb, or used) doesn't know which axle it is. In the FSM, there is an axle chart (in section 4 I believe) use that to find the identification bands on the axle shaft, the shape of the inner joint cup, and the inner joint spline count. These are your general identification landmarks. For the interim, I'm sure the Rock Auto axles will work just fine. But once you get the car rolling, I'd be saving up for used OEM axles, new front struts, a set of 4x140 wheels, some wheel bearings, and strut mounts. Just my opinion but if you're even considering dropping the car to stock height, start locating parts ASAP. KYB struts can only be found easily shipped from Australia. So shipping is very expensive, plus the "old a** part" tax. You'd be looking at $700 for a pair including shipping. Strut mounts (again, KYB brand) are also very hard to find. And typically go for $40-$90 per mount. It'd be expensive to drop the car and give the suspension the attention it probably needs or will need soon. But it's easier on the car long-term and makes the parts struggle a little less complicated. Tldr: The Rock Auto axles are a good permanent solution for a "throw away" car but if you plan to keep it long term, I'd recommend going to stock suspension. Begin your hunt for the parts required to make that swap ASAP. Last call for parts was a decade ago, we're stumbling out on the end of a bartender's broom at this point.

From what my Parts Catalog says (and it only goes up to '90 so YMMV), the Loyale used a 95AC-23 axle (PN 23221GA373) which has 23 splines and a length between boots of 242mm. These axles are actually the shortest of all the OEM axles. You MIGHT (maybe, possibly, no guarantees) be able to get away with a longer OEM axle. The 87AC axles (PN 23221GA233) have a length of 257mm between boots. The 82AC axles (PN 23221GA244) have a length of 265mm between boots. You could gain up to 23mm in axle length with OEM axles which are better quality than modern production axles. Sorry I didn't really answer your question. Me personally, I'd drop the car to standard height and swap in used OEM axles. But that's just my opinion. Second option I'd personally go for is keep the lift, buy some 82AC axles and see if they work. Third option I'd go for is getting the Rock Auto extreme articulation axles. I'm sure they'd work, but for how long? And by that time would you be able to get them again? Going to stock gives you the most flexibility with parts and greater parts longevity. I'm beating the "keep it stock" drum pretty hard, but whatever you choose to do is your decision, I can only offer my opinion. :] P.S. looking for the right axles can be a major PITA. If you need alternative part numbers just shoot me a line.

I'll just scrap the HG's and go out to my engine rebuilder to grab an extra set I had given them. Those are OEM gaskets anyways.

Sounds good. I actually installed the heads last night but I think I'm going to undo the head bolts and redo it. The front upper corner head bolts on either side went in a little crunchy and my gut is telling me to redo it. Those two head bolts were extremely caked in... Something. A brownish white powder that looked like instant 3-in-1 coffee. I had the heads cleaned but those bolt holes had some grit left in them. I missed seeing it until those bolts went in crunchy and I inspected the holes. All the bolts were cleaned and the threads were chased and blown clean. When I redo the heads then I'll make sure to oil under the bolt heads and washers. Shouldn't take too long, just undo the bolts, clean the bolt two bolt holes, re-clean all the threads, and torque to spec. Should I let the heads sit torqued for a day before retorque? :]

I have another question regarding oiling the head bolts. After doing some reading online, specifically for rebuilding EJ's, some people really stress oiling the underside of the washers (knew that) as well as the underside of the bolt heads. Doing this makes sense but the FSM doesn't mention doing that. So is it okay to only oil the threads and the underside of the washers? Or should I also oil the underside of the bolt heads? Also some people really stress using a high-pressure assembly lube rather than engine oil. The FSM specifically says "oil". I know it's not rocket science but with how rare parts are, I want to take my time and do it by the book and learn from other's experience rather than learn the hard (and expensive) way. :]

If you do wheel bearings I'd recommend buying sealed bearings and foregoing the seals. If anything take one seal off each bearing, face the unsealed sides into the knuckle and pack grease between them inside the knuckle. The seals are a real pain in my opinion. Front bearings are super easy compared to the rears, if you lift the engine & trans as a unit to get the axles out then you don't have to detach any suspension components. If anything take your outer tie rods out of the knuckle but I got away without it. Putting the axles back in, you may have to loosen/partially drop the control arms. :]

DRW makes a full polyurethane shifter bushing set (I promise I have no connection to the brand even though I sing their praises everywhere, I just believe in the product and respect the support for these old Roos). My shifter was awful before I installed them. Shifter in gear felt the same in neutral. Getting that roll pin out without dropping the transmission is a serious PITA. I ended up cutting the bolt going through the bushing out and installing a new shoulder bolt with a carbide drill bushing on the other end and an ultra-low profile nut. Clearance in there is non-existent. It's really not rocket science, however you slice it if you manage to get a new bushing in there then you'll notice an improvement. May be worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings while you're under there. :]

I am converting an old EA82 from carb to SPFI. The heads had two metal pipes, one either side, that I'd assume are for EGR. Either way, the ports for those metal pipes go all the way into the exhaust port flange so they'd cause exhaust leaks if I just bolted up my exhaust. I'd assume these ports need to be blocked off with a plate and some sealant, correct? :] P.S. I'd still keep all my emissions equipment in place for the SPFI setup, I'm just looking to adapt the carb EGR system to the SPFI system.

@el_freddodo you know what's up with the 3-digit codes for these cars? I've seen them around when doing research but I've never found a chart or spreadsheet or anything listing them out and what they mean. For instance, my car's code matches (as far as I know) what's known in the AUDM as a "Super Turbo". My car isn't turbo and I cannot tell what transmissions the supers had (some places say AWD M/T, some say FT4WD). I'm just kind of confused by the whole thing. Not to hijack, I'm just curious. :]

See above. I bought the last one from Parts Geek a few months ago and I've been eyeing their availability after this thread was started and I haven't seen any anywhere. I forget where I saw it, but there does appear to be two part numbers from Sachs that refer to the same strut. The part number I listed above is the longer version. There's another part number that is 6-8 digits long. Though when I searched that number I also couldn't find any. I bought my KYB from PEC Australia. It still hasn't shipped yet. They were messaging me last week asking what model number my "Leone" was and if the strut was compatible (I knew it was, I found a KYB catalog online). There's model codes for the cars that give a general designation of drivetrain specs and geographical market (my car is an AN5, for instance). My guess is this causes confusion from those outside the US since I haven't really heard US owners talking about their "AN5's" it's really only DL, GL, etc. Hopefully it'll actually ship and I don't just get refunded. Finding these struts is a bit of an Easter egg hunt. :]

How high is your lift? I've heard 2" is about the limit of the axles but I'm not experienced in lifting these cars so other's experiences may differ. It seems to be the general consensus that aftermarket axles aren't worth running if it's avoidable. If anything, check out the grease in the joints. I highly doubt they'd assemble them dry but knowing the quality of modern aftermarket parts for these cars, it also wouldn't surprise me. I'd try packing the joints with a good quality grease and seeing what happens. I recommend Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide grease. It comes in 4.5oz bottles which is the perfect amount for one joint. I squeeze out as much as I can into the joint, then I cut the bottle open and scoop the rest into the boot. It's expensive but it's very good grease. Try looking out for used OEM axles. It's a pain to track the right axles down but if you run them with good grease and quality neoprene boots they should be just fine. :]

I did, even with an adapter and a smaller hose, it helped but there's still gunk at the bottom of the holes. I'm going to try tipping the engine so the cylinders are vertical (and get myself bathed in coolant and oil), using a piece of wire as a pick to dig the gunk out and use a shop vac to help pull the gunk out. I know I'm making it more complicated than it needs to be, but I'd rather think it through rather than rush through.

So I've been spending the past few nights after work cleaning up my deck surfaces and head bolt holes. I ran a thread chaser down all the head bolt holes and they all cleaned up great, however some of the gunk it scraped off the threads is now at the bottom of the holes. I don't want to use compressed air as I worry some of the holes go into the water jacket and I don't want to blow the gunk into the water jacket. Any tips and tricks here? I thought about using a wood screw to auger the gunk out or using some safety wire as a pick to get the gunk out. I used a small amount of engine oil to help the thread chaser and the gunk is sticking to the oil. Obviously brake clean would help get the oil out but I still worry about the brake clean blowing the gunk into the water jacket. :]

A few things when disassembling/assembling axles: Inner joints (transmission side): These have a large diameter metal clip close to the outer edge of the bearing cup. Just use a small flathead screwdriver to get this started and remove it. Take photos of the orientation of the outer bearing retainer, it is unidirectional. Remove the bearing carrier/retainer as an assembly, use your small screwdriver to pry the bearings out (be careful to not scratch the surfaces, use a cheap screwdriver they'll be softer than nice ones), then turn the outer retainer and it'll separate from the inner carrier. Outer joint: These joints have the metal clip I was mentioning above. If this joint wasn't accidentally disassembled when you were putting in the strut then leave it be. They're not supposed to be disassembled but they *technically* can be. Only use molybdenum disulfide grease when assembling the axle. Make sure the axle is clean of grease before regressing and reassembling. Zip ties can work as boot clamps, but I'd recommend actual boot clamps.

After doing a TON of research: Front Right KYB: 333234 Front Left KYB: 333235 These struts seem to only be available in Australia so you're going to pay out the keister for shipping but luckily for US residents the current exchange rate is quite good. I have one KYB strut on the way from down under so if you want to wait to see if what I actually get is the correct strut, I'll post back here when I get it and let y'all know. I needed a right side strut BAD, I had a spare left Sachs but I couldn't find a right Sachs nor TRW. Hopefully now I'll have a spare set to keep my GL running far longer than the engineers intended. :]

Any SPFI throttle body will work. They were available on DL, GL, GL-10, and Loyales. They're all the same. Granted, just going off the model doesn't always work if there isn't any photos on the listing. For example a GL-10 could be SPFI, MPFI, or MPFI Turbo. There's a ton of overlap with fuel delivery systems on the different models. Vehicles could be optioned with a ton of different bits and bobs so there's really no hard line between different models. Generally the only real difference between the DL, GL, & GL-10 models is interior *broad generality*. If going off photos, the MPFI throttle body looks vastly different. Look for the cylindrical IAC valve on the front of the SPFI throttle body. The part number for the throttle body assembly is 16118AA380 OR 16114AA170. If that helps you on your search at all. :] P.S. look up "Subaru Loyale Throttle Body"