SuspiciousPizza

scooby2 have you determined if it is your fuel pump that needs replacing? There is a way to put your ECU into "learn" (improper nomenclature) mode and when you turn the key to ON, the fuel pump will turn on in pulses. You'll be able to hear the pump, if you don't hear any pulsed buzzing then you know the pump isn't functioning. In my opinion this is the easiest way to test your pump as you don't have to remove anything other than some plastic panels below the steering column. If this vehicle is a single-point fuel injected model, fuel pumps are basically extinct. There are multiple forum posts on others using different non-OEM pumps so there's always a way to MacGyver something. :]

Here's how I set up my valve. I planned to get a proper piece of EPDM hose and a fitting but there's nothing more permanent than a functional temporary fix. The stock hose does fit on the "rear" fitting, but I also used a tight hose clamp. I soldered the wires to the terminals in the polarity you see in the photos. Red (with the blue heat shrink) is +. In the engine harness connector, the top terminal closest to the connector hook (latch thingy) is -, the bottom vertical terminal is +. :]

I had to replace my EGR solenoid as well. I used an AISIN VST-026. The fittings for the hoses is a bit too small, but you could adapt it by wrapping electrical tape around the solenoid fitting or get a smaller piece of tube and a fitting to adapt it to the stock hose. The AISIN part isn't cheap, but I've heard they outlast the Toyota's they're made for, and that's not too shabby. I'll post a photo later tonight to show the wiring. It's + & - even I can do it.

Have you checked if the throttle position sensor is set properly? Just a thought I had while reading this discussion. My opinion is to check everything you can before chasing the parts dragon. Though it is always good to have spare parts while they're still sparsely available. Never a bad idea to buy a spare if you have the scratch IMO.

Is this a Carb/SPFI/MPFI/Turbo? The different fuel delivery systems use different fuel pumps. (I'm assuming you're talking about a fuel pump, if not then snap a picture of what you're talking about.) If you let us know what it is I can get you a part number to cross-reference online listings. I'm also going to see a parts guy in a few weeks, so I may be able to grab you what you need while I'm there. No promises but it's possible he'll have a spare. :]

Try running on premium. My gauge didn't work but running a few tanks of premium through it made the gauge work again. My guess is the sending unit was sticking and the premium dissolved the residue in the float mechanism. Regular might work too but someone smarter than me would know for sure. Or you could pull the sending unit and clean it/ replace it.

I did find this eBay link to some window cranks. I've bought from this seller in Thailand before, great packaging. Prices are on the higher side but they've got some parts and pieces that are difficult to find. :]

Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

I had an issue somewhat similar to what you're experiencing. My GL would start, only with throttle input and would idle like garbage. But it would smoothen out at slightly higher than idle rpm. What it ended up being is a broken IAC wire in the engine wiring harness. I had to test for continuity while bending the engine harness to try to find the break in the wire. Took me longer than I'd like to admit to find since the IAC tested okay. :]

First thought that comes to my mind is the bearing failed, the shaft got some weeble-wobble and cooked the bearing. Heat went up the shaft and cooked the rotor. If this is an optical distributor, I'd be curious of the condition of the "eye" (the little donut-shaped module that sits under the rotor beneath the metal shield.) That eye module is also made of plastic. It may have also been damaged if this is a toasty bearing scenario. :]

Perhaps the camshafts have been replaced with non-carb cams? Other than having a known carb cam to compare to, I don't know how you'd check this. Someone with more knowledge and experience than I may know. Is there any vacuum leaks to the distributor/ is the vacuum advance operating properly? Does it idle poorly at 8 degrees? :]

I've been having a related issue with my intake manifold ('89 GL SPFI) I've been cleaning up. I had some seized bolts (not intake manifold mounting bolts, rather bolts that threaded into the manifold to mount misc accessories) so I soaked the manifold in evaporust. I got the bolts removed, but my heater hose pipe (p/n 14070AA011) is stuck and I cannot remove it. I worry that the evaporust may have partially penetrated the sealant. As such I'd like to remove the heater hose pipe and reapply sealant to prevent the risk of a coolant leak. Does anyone have any tips or tricks? I thought of bending an induction heater coil around the heater hose pipe near where it meets the intake manifold and use that to heat the sealant and soften it. I'd imagine a blow torch would work too, but an induction heater should produce more localized heat. Thanks :] P.S. I'm talking about the metal pipe that sockets into the bottom of the intake manifold. The larger diameter pipe, not the smaller one.

I got my transmissions (plural) back today. After talking to the tech they decided that they'd only do a partial reseal. They didn't want to split the case fully since they couldn't get a reliable new parts source. Only major seal that wasn't replaced was the front main seal since that requires splitting the main case. Sounds like if that job comes to a head, I'm on my own. It shouldn't be that bad, I have a FSM and a practice transmission. The spare transmission was used for some NLA seals. 33194AA001 was one. Once I get the car up and running I'll have the time to check out the spare transmission. I expect carnage. Sorry no photos. There will be photos and detailed notes on the spare transmission though. :]

Fusible links are available. You can even buy them on Amazon. Just google "Subaru Loyale fusible link" and you'll get a whole bunch of listings. Have you put voltage to the fuel pump itself? Just to test the pump? You mentioned bypassing the rev sensor and the pump didn't do anything, so is it just the pump that's dead? :]

This is the connector you're looking for, there'll be a male connector of the same color. I just don't have a photo showing them connected. If you get tired of twisting yourself under the steering column looking for wires, remove the driver seat. It's 4 bolts, one on each corner of the seat and it frees up a lot of space to move around. :]

The test connector is the 4-pin green plug (mine has a yellow, black, red, and white/yellow wires). Not sure about the brown plug, but it doesn't have to do with pulling codes. I'd turn the key off when connecting or disconnecting any connectors. But I have accidentally driven with my test connector connected so it *shouldn't* send sparks flying or making any magic smoke. :]

As Benny said, there should be a green connector under the steering column. Connect these (I believe 4-pin) green connectors and flip the key to ON. Watch the ECU light flashing. Short flashes are values of 1, long flashes are values of 10. There will be short pauses between codes. Disconnect this connector when you're done pulling codes. For a check engine light, this can (maybe not in this instance) be a check engine light that pops up when nothing is wrong to notify the driver to get the car serviced. I believe these cars will pop up a check engine light every 40,000 (?) miles, again just as a service reminder. :]

The inner DOJ races cannot be swapped between 23 and 25 spline models. The 25 spline axles are a larger diameter (0.944" vs 0.896" measured on the axle shaft) and use a larger DOJ race, ball bearings, and carrier. Also the splines are most definitely NOT pressed in. Modifications to the inner DOJ race to convert a 25 spline race to a 23 spline race would take a fair amount of machining. It'd be interesting to see if a 95AC23 DOJ race can be swapped with the D/R's 87AC DOJ race. :]

Interesting... It'd be interesting to see if it's possible to remove the splines themselves from the axles. It looks to me like the splines were broached and then pressed into the inner DOJ race. I wonder if they can be removed from the race, get a custom 23/25 spline insert machined or broached, and then pressing that back into the DOJ race. What I'd mainly be interested in swapping is the outer joint, as this is what seems to be making noise on tight turns (getting out of parking, etc). But swapping in a new axle and keeping the inner race does the same thing. I'll be experimenting with swapping axle parts this week. At the minimum they all need to be regreased. Haven't heard much from the transmission rebuilder, just that I may use my spare as a parts transmission if they end up needing parts. I gave em all the seals I could get ahold of and a copy of the FSM. I'll keep y'all updated with photos if I can snap a few. Thanks for hanging in there along with me :]

I have a question regarding axles. My D/R transmission has 23 spline hubs, I've been looking around and I found two axles that according to the photos would fit, turns out they're 25 spline axles. The neverending joy of finding the right axles. Is there any parts interchangeability between axles? Could I use the 25 spline axles for their inner or outer joints? Or are they differently sized parts? Or could I put the 23 spline inner races on the 25 spline axles and use a beefier axle? I'd assume they're completely different, but still worth asking. Thanks :]

An '89 GL wagon. The switch was wired to terminal 86 on the AC fan relay (switched to Bosch 5-pin from the original). This pin, from what I understand, is the relay ground. So all I should be doing when I flip the switch is connecting the relay to ground, thus completing the circuit.

Bit of a side question. For the operation of the A.C. fan the relay is shorted to ground? All the thermo switch does is short the relay to ground? Electronics aren't my thing. Thanks :]

Yes, L-Series I was referring to any of the Leones/Loyales/DL/GL, etc. I didn't know the wagon shared suspension components. It makes sense. One thing you could try, and it's helped me track down parts before, is searching for what you want on eBay and changing what model nomenclature you use. For instance try "Subaru Brat Strut", then "Subaru L-Series strut", then "Subaru Leone strut", then "Subaru Reone strut" (not a typo, on Japanese sites, they call it a Reone, my guess is this is for linguistic differences). You or anyone searching may get lucky. These vehicles were known as so many things that depending on where the listing is from, the regional model names may differ while referencing the same model. :]

Forgive my ignorance, I'm not yet fortunate enough to own a BRAT. Are the BRAT struts different from the L-Series struts? I know there were a few different mounting styles throughout the years. With the BRAT being it's own standalone body style I could see there being different mounting requirements. But from a financial perspective, why would Subaru use a different strut? It's easier to make cheaper cars when they all share parts. Thanks :]

Do you think they blew because of the coolant spill, or just a coincidence they blew after you happened to spill coolant? :]