SuspiciousPizza

I am converting an old EA82 from carb to SPFI. The heads had two metal pipes, one either side, that I'd assume are for EGR. Either way, the ports for those metal pipes go all the way into the exhaust port flange so they'd cause exhaust leaks if I just bolted up my exhaust. I'd assume these ports need to be blocked off with a plate and some sealant, correct? :] P.S. I'd still keep all my emissions equipment in place for the SPFI setup, I'm just looking to adapt the carb EGR system to the SPFI system.

@el_freddodo you know what's up with the 3-digit codes for these cars? I've seen them around when doing research but I've never found a chart or spreadsheet or anything listing them out and what they mean. For instance, my car's code matches (as far as I know) what's known in the AUDM as a "Super Turbo". My car isn't turbo and I cannot tell what transmissions the supers had (some places say AWD M/T, some say FT4WD). I'm just kind of confused by the whole thing. Not to hijack, I'm just curious. :]

See above. I bought the last one from Parts Geek a few months ago and I've been eyeing their availability after this thread was started and I haven't seen any anywhere. I forget where I saw it, but there does appear to be two part numbers from Sachs that refer to the same strut. The part number I listed above is the longer version. There's another part number that is 6-8 digits long. Though when I searched that number I also couldn't find any. I bought my KYB from PEC Australia. It still hasn't shipped yet. They were messaging me last week asking what model number my "Leone" was and if the strut was compatible (I knew it was, I found a KYB catalog online). There's model codes for the cars that give a general designation of drivetrain specs and geographical market (my car is an AN5, for instance). My guess is this causes confusion from those outside the US since I haven't really heard US owners talking about their "AN5's" it's really only DL, GL, etc. Hopefully it'll actually ship and I don't just get refunded. Finding these struts is a bit of an Easter egg hunt. :]

How high is your lift? I've heard 2" is about the limit of the axles but I'm not experienced in lifting these cars so other's experiences may differ. It seems to be the general consensus that aftermarket axles aren't worth running if it's avoidable. If anything, check out the grease in the joints. I highly doubt they'd assemble them dry but knowing the quality of modern aftermarket parts for these cars, it also wouldn't surprise me. I'd try packing the joints with a good quality grease and seeing what happens. I recommend Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide grease. It comes in 4.5oz bottles which is the perfect amount for one joint. I squeeze out as much as I can into the joint, then I cut the bottle open and scoop the rest into the boot. It's expensive but it's very good grease. Try looking out for used OEM axles. It's a pain to track the right axles down but if you run them with good grease and quality neoprene boots they should be just fine. :]

I did, even with an adapter and a smaller hose, it helped but there's still gunk at the bottom of the holes. I'm going to try tipping the engine so the cylinders are vertical (and get myself bathed in coolant and oil), using a piece of wire as a pick to dig the gunk out and use a shop vac to help pull the gunk out. I know I'm making it more complicated than it needs to be, but I'd rather think it through rather than rush through.

So I've been spending the past few nights after work cleaning up my deck surfaces and head bolt holes. I ran a thread chaser down all the head bolt holes and they all cleaned up great, however some of the gunk it scraped off the threads is now at the bottom of the holes. I don't want to use compressed air as I worry some of the holes go into the water jacket and I don't want to blow the gunk into the water jacket. Any tips and tricks here? I thought about using a wood screw to auger the gunk out or using some safety wire as a pick to get the gunk out. I used a small amount of engine oil to help the thread chaser and the gunk is sticking to the oil. Obviously brake clean would help get the oil out but I still worry about the brake clean blowing the gunk into the water jacket. :]

A few things when disassembling/assembling axles: Inner joints (transmission side): These have a large diameter metal clip close to the outer edge of the bearing cup. Just use a small flathead screwdriver to get this started and remove it. Take photos of the orientation of the outer bearing retainer, it is unidirectional. Remove the bearing carrier/retainer as an assembly, use your small screwdriver to pry the bearings out (be careful to not scratch the surfaces, use a cheap screwdriver they'll be softer than nice ones), then turn the outer retainer and it'll separate from the inner carrier. Outer joint: These joints have the metal clip I was mentioning above. If this joint wasn't accidentally disassembled when you were putting in the strut then leave it be. They're not supposed to be disassembled but they *technically* can be. Only use molybdenum disulfide grease when assembling the axle. Make sure the axle is clean of grease before regressing and reassembling. Zip ties can work as boot clamps, but I'd recommend actual boot clamps.

After doing a TON of research: Front Right KYB: 333234 Front Left KYB: 333235 These struts seem to only be available in Australia so you're going to pay out the keister for shipping but luckily for US residents the current exchange rate is quite good. I have one KYB strut on the way from down under so if you want to wait to see if what I actually get is the correct strut, I'll post back here when I get it and let y'all know. I needed a right side strut BAD, I had a spare left Sachs but I couldn't find a right Sachs nor TRW. Hopefully now I'll have a spare set to keep my GL running far longer than the engineers intended. :]

Any SPFI throttle body will work. They were available on DL, GL, GL-10, and Loyales. They're all the same. Granted, just going off the model doesn't always work if there isn't any photos on the listing. For example a GL-10 could be SPFI, MPFI, or MPFI Turbo. There's a ton of overlap with fuel delivery systems on the different models. Vehicles could be optioned with a ton of different bits and bobs so there's really no hard line between different models. Generally the only real difference between the DL, GL, & GL-10 models is interior *broad generality*. If going off photos, the MPFI throttle body looks vastly different. Look for the cylindrical IAC valve on the front of the SPFI throttle body. The part number for the throttle body assembly is 16118AA380 OR 16114AA170. If that helps you on your search at all. :] P.S. look up "Subaru Loyale Throttle Body"

Were you pulling on the knuckle or some component away from the car? Like you're facing the car as if you're removing a tire and pulling the knuckle towards yourself. I'd remove the boot clamp to inspect what happened. On the outer joints, there's a little metal circlip that fits into a groove on the axle shaft. This clip prevents the axle shaft from pulling out of the inner joint. My guess is that's what you did. Pulled the axle out of the inner joint. All you should have to do (if that is the case) is take the clip, put it in the groove and shove the axle back into the inner joint. If you need a spare clip, I have some. I seriously doubt you actually broke the axle with arm strength alone. If you did, you should drop the wrenches and pick up a speedo for a bodybuilder competition In the future, best way I've found to remove the axles from the transmission is: remove the roll pin on the inner joint (6mm needle punch), remove the two engine mount nuts, remove the front engine pitch rod bolt, remove the transmission mount nuts, use a jack with a block of wood to lift the engine and transmission up 1-2 inches DON'T LIFT FROM THE OIL PAN LIFT FROM THE TRANSMISSION (watch your fan so it doesn't hit your radiator or fan shroud and make sure you're not pulling any hoses, wires, or cables) then you can pull off the axles. You just need to give the transmission a little lift to get enough clearance. :]

The factory retorque procedure seems like a massive pain. Torque once using 3-step torque increments, reassemble and install the engine, get it to operating temp and let cool. Then loosen the intake manifold bolts and take off the cam carriers (may as well remove the intake manifold and pull the engine again), in the same torque order loosen the head bolt 60°, oil the threads between the washer and the head, torque to spec. Repeat on every bolt using the head bolt sequence 5 times. Then retorque one final time without backing off the bolts. Reassemble. I have no issue doing this to prolong the life of the head gaskets but I does seem like a PITA.

I'm doing a top end rebuild and reseal on an EA82 that'd been sitting in a car in the woods for 20+ years. The heads need resurfacing but once they're ready to go back on, I'm curious about oiling the head bolts. What's your preferred method and oil/lube? My first thought was engine oil but how best to apply? Use an oiler bottle? Just dunk the threads and shake off a bit of the excess? Tangentially, for the Felpro head gaskets (they're what I had laying around from a reseal kit I bought) they say they're 'permatorque' do they REALLY not need to be retorqued? Would going through the FSM -60°, oil threads, retorque, repeat really not make a difference? I find that hard to believe. The engine was stored with oil in the pan, I'd like to fully clean out the pan to get all the old oil and crud out of there. Should I use something like diesel to flush out the pan? Any preferred methods? I'd like to flush out the coolant passages with distilled water once the engine is back together (before installing). I was thinking of using an aquarium pump in a 5 gallon bucket with some sort of filter/strainer system, removing the thermostat, and letting it run overnight to get all the old nasties out of there. Or would it be just worth flushing the system with a chemical flush while driving around? Any thoughts are appreciated, y'all have more experience than I do. Thanks :]

It might work, not sure though. The issue is the strut sockets into the steering knuckle, so you'd need a strut that had the right diameter and spring mount location. Here are the 4WD strut parts numbers I had in my notes. There are some used Loyale struts on eBay at the moment (both right and left). Front Right Sachs: W0133-1932779 Front Left Sachs: W0133-2038805 Front Right TRW: JGM4031SR Front Left TRW: JGM4031SL Front struts are very difficult to find. They are available but the parts availability seems to come in waves. There's not really any "upgrade" parts for these cars (there are overload springs out there). Just finding parts designed for these cars is an accomplishment. :]

Any SPFI throttle body for a DL/GL/GL-10/Loyale would work. Just visually inspect yours and if it looks the same, you're golden.

You can replace them with 2WD or 4WD ones. Only different is a slight height change (2WD sit lower) so replace both of them. Your springs will still work on either. Grab some new bump stops and bellows for the struts if you have the scratch. I think there was some TRW struts out there very recently. Good luck :]

I have seen throttle bodies for sale on eBay. Granted, they really aren't cheap. Enough to make me wince ($350-$400). HOWEVER - with the throttle body you get a TPS, an injector, a fuel pressure regulator, and an IAC valve. You'd spend over $400 if you bought the parts separately (if you can find them *cough* injector & OEM regulator). It's not the cheap route, but the parts would be genuine and you'd have spares. You may get lucky if you spend a few hours on the eBay rabbit hole. I saw someone list a throttle body as a carb a few months back for a crazy low price. I'd just check all the electrical hoopla going to the TPS before plugging it in. Just my 2¢. :]

'89 GL I have a question regarding Fujibond C aka Threebond 1324 anerobic sealant. In the '89 FSM it states that this sealant is for use on the periphery of the water pump mechanical seal however nowhere in the FSM (that I can find) does it mention how it's used. Most water pumps come with a paper gasket. Should the anerobic sealant be used with the paper gasket or just the anerobic sealant? How thick of a bead? I'd assume 1/16-1/8 inch. I'd prefer to use the anerobic sealant as I've heard the pumps are prone to leak "for no reason" is this due to the fact that most people just use the paper gasket supplied rather than the proper sealant? The anerobic sealant needs an absence of air to cure, so if any seeps into the water passages, it'll remain liquid and not cause any clogs. Any thoughts here? I'm a bit confused. :] P.S. After triple checking the FSM the nomenclature "mechanical seal" refers to the seal for the water pump shaft but doesn't mention it being used when installing the shaft seal. I'm so confused.

Have you called around wrecking yards? Maybe Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist or the like? Sometimes if there's a car that's been listed for a while, the seller would be willing to part it out, especially if they mention the car will be wrecked if it isn't sold. I've gotten lucky and have saved some very scarce parts at a very good price that way. I see you're in Oregon, so you're in the Mecca of parts availability. I'm sure if you looked around you'd be able to find something used. If not, then that really is the writing on the wall for the rest of us in the boondocks. :]

So I did everything I could to seat the axles in further. They did move maybe a fraction of a millimeter. After about 20 minutes of hammering on one side. I noticed the cone washer sat quite far out from the drum. On the OEM drums I pulled, the cone washer sits almost exactly 2mm from the drum face. Whereas with the aftermarket drums I installed, the cone washer sits 3.5mm from the drum face. The countersink isn't as deep. I know that doesn't sound like a lot but only about 1/4 of the cotter pin hole on the axle is exposed. So that extra 1.5mm really adds up. I'm kinda at a loss for what to do. I truly think the axles are as deep as they'll go. They didn't take this much effort to remove, I don't know why installing would take more force. The two ideas I have (both of which seem like big no-no's) are: 1: Do the old glass & sandpaper trick to the cone washers to hone them down and get them to sit more flush with the drum face. 2: Don't use a cotter pin. Torque the axle nuts to 200ftlbs, maybe use some blue thread locker and keep a breaker bar, 36mm socket and extra axle hardware in the car. Check periodically when checking tire pressure. I don't like either of these ideas but again, I'm kind of at a loss. I have new spring washers on the way too. Any thoughts? :]

I could do that with the passenger side, but the driver side stub was seized to the CV joint. I had to pull the entire axle through as an assembly and install the trailing arm and axle in all as one unit. Unless I back out the nut a bit and use two pry bars between the nut and the bearing housing. Maybe I could get a slide hammer on behind the nut, but I've had limited success with that.

89 GL 4WD. After many long nights I, a long with many other small odds and ends, got all 4 (technically 8 of em) wheel bearings done. Fronts were easy, sans the seals, I'm doing sealed bearings next time. The rears however, are confusing me a bit. I followed the FSM and used proper torque specs, (even on the rear retaining ring) new cone and spring washer. Everything was cleaned and I kept re-cleaning during assembly. But both axles have about 3-5mm yet before the cotter pin hole aligns with the castle nut. The stubs aren't pulled through far enough. I did put on new drums as well, the old outer seals were put on backwards (I double checked the FSM for their orientation) and spit grease all over the old drums and shoes. Is it possible the aftermarket drums are just slightly thicker/wider? I never measured them, they fit so it didn't occur to me to do so. I could check them but I don't want to buy new spring washers if I don't have to. Thanks :]

I've been reading some more and it sounds like a BFH is the way to go with this. So I made a drawing of what my idea is. I'd need to source some hardwood or some polypropylene sheets (thick maybe 3/8") to absorb the hammering and transfer the forces to the CV cup rather than into the brittle hardened bearing surfaces. Also the grooves in the boards/sheets would have to be perfectly sized to fit around the axle, but not let the bands fit through. I'd also need to figure out how to prevent the axle from articulating as I'm beating it up for lunch money. Here's my idea, though if anyone has experience doing this without damaging any of the axle components then please share.

I've got a seized rear stub. I'm lost as to how the shaft is removed from the CV joint. From what I've read on here it is technically possible to remove the shaft from the CV joint, as is shown above, but this takes some finesse. I do not have a press and I don't want to wallop on the joint since the hardened steel is brittle. Does anyone have any pointers on how to remove the shaft? Is it possible to angle the joint with the shaft still in place, then use a brass punch to shift the cage enough to remove the balls without removing the shaft? Isn't all that retains the shaft is a circlip, similar to the DOJ retaining clip but smaller in diameter? Thanks :] P.S. I'm trying to remove the stub since I'm doing my rear wheel bearings. Technically I can reinstall the axle without removing the stub and get everything lined up. But in the future if I need to replace the stub (sheared splines, etc) then I'm basically SOL and have to replace the entire axle.

Sounds good. I have replacement shoes that I got for a steal so I'll carry them around just in case. Should get some replacement axle washers too. They're ceramic shoes, are those more brittle than the organic shoes? I wasn't being rough at all and it chipped. It wasn't chipped beforehand, I definitely did it but I was shocked at how easily it happened. Thanks :]

I've been redoing all my wheel bearings, seals, and brakes. While pulling a late one (tonight, literally minutes ago) as I was putting on my new drum I chipped a shoe. I didn't have the auto adjuster fully backed out, only 2 or 3 teeth until it was fully backed out and the shoe must not have been sitting perfectly concentric with the drum. Either way, it's about the size of a grain of rice. Should I replace my mistake or let it go? This is my first time fully redoing drum brakes. Don't worry, I cleaned up the excess brake lube. That stuff's like anti seize. One drop can paint a house.