SuspiciousPizza

Did you check that fuel filter down near the fuel pump? Too bad you had to go buy that pump but it'll give you more peace of mind in the future. Plus you can keep your old one in the car as a spare if you're ever in the situation you need it. If you do have to replace any rubber fuel hoses, Codan makes hoses that are the right diameter and are very good quality. Check out Volksbolts, they've got a good write up on fuel hoses. If you ever need some reading material.

Yeah that pump should work. Really so long as the pressure, voltage, and current draw are correct (the pump you showed looks to meet those specs) then these cars really don't care. I don't know if it'll last as long as an OEM or equivalent pump but it'll do the job. You may have to do some electrical work and figure out a mounting solution since this isn't an OEM equivalent pump but that's not a big deal and it's nothing too complicated. Sadly OEM/equivalent SPFI pumps are NLA but if you do ever want to keep a lookout for one, the part number is 42021GA242. Good luck, let us know how it goes. :]

For SPFI models, the fuel pressure discharge from the fuel pump is 36-50 psi. After the regulator is 20-24 psi @ 700rpm. The regulator drops the high pressure from the pump to a usable pressure for the injector. So there is a high pressure side and a low pressure side, separated by the fuel pressure regulator on the throttle body. Could be an issue with the fuel lines or filters. But most likely the fuel pump is tired and out of spec.

Did you measure before or after the fuel pressure regulator? If after, that seems pretty close but others more experienced would have to let you know for sure. If you decide to pull your injector, I've found a large needle nose vice grip works the best. Don't use the straight part of the jaws, rather the semi-circle part of the jaws works very well. You may have to spin the injector to loosen the 2 o-rings. Be sure not to lose the 3-padded metal ring the injector sits on top of. Throttle body & injector gasket kit I use is Walker 18015.

I'm not familiar with the older gens. Does each line indicate something? Like first line is where the thermostat opens, second line is "high normal op temperature", 3rd is "dancing with danger" and 4th is really not good? I've never opened an older gen FSM or owners manual, let alone seen an older gen in the flesh other than a BRAT at a car show once. Are the dash readouts known for any inaccuracies such as the 3rd gen oil pressure gauges being quite vague?

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ You're going to want the Loyale Leone EA82 1989 Service Manual at the bottom. Basically scroll all the way down to get the wiring diagrams. Also section 2.7 has good electrical information and shows what pins go where on the ECU and to what sensors. :]

Also I checked my service manual, there is no power that goes to the sensor. Only ground and signal from the sensor (a resistance value). If you'd like to test the CTS, get a bowl of water, heated to the temps below and read the resistance values. The values are: 7-11.5 kOhm @ 14°F 2-3 kOhm @ 68°F 700-1000 Ohm @ 122°F I should note that the troubleshooting diagram in the service manual states that unless there is some form of initial combustion when starting the engine, your issue is NOT a CTS. If it does fire and dies, then it is possible. But if it doesn't have initial combustion, then I'd look elsewhere.

Could be very possible, engine harness wiring is old and has been dealing with heat cycles for decades. Do you have an engine wiring diagram? If not, they're available online. I could get you a (not broken) link if you need it. PLEASE CONSULT A WIRING DIAGRAM BEFORE YOU GO DISASSEMBLING ANYTHING. For your own understanding and sanity. It may be worth pulling the engine harness (with a diagram by your side), remove the plastic loom and test the wiring. I've had to do this before, bending every wire along its full length to find any internal breaks in the wire. Also test the resistance of every wire, obviously starting where you think the issue is to potentially save yourself time. If there is an intermittent internal break, your ECU may not throw a code. This can make chasing an electrical issue even more challenging. It could also be a bad ground (I believe a ground issue should throw a code, but checking the resistance of engine ground wires isn't that big of a deal) Also, is there white crusties on the CTS or the intake manifold threads? This could cause a ground issue to the CTS. :]

Have you flushed out the old gas or is this several year old gas? Also, have the fuel filters (all of them) been replaced? Is there sediment in the fuel tank? If you're not throwing codes and you were experiencing fuel issues, that's where I'd look first. The only bit that confuses me is the test connector/coolant sensor scenario. Have you tested the coolant sensor for the proper values? Hang in there :]

Shoot, sorry the link didn't work. Just look up the forum post, it's been recently discussed so you shouldn't have an issue finding it.

The EGR code is for the EGR solenoid, not the EGR valve. The ECU can only read electrical faults, it will not know if anything mechanical is going wrong (the EGR valve is purely mechanical, as such the ECU won't tell you if it's dirty, sticking, etc) The solenoid controls when the valve gets vacuum. I've had this issue, it's an easy fix. Check out ('92 Loyale - Difficult to start, rough idle, and stalling/no power while in gear.), scroll to the bottom and it'll tell you how to install a new EGR solenoid. The solenoid will cost ya 50 ish bucks but you shouldn't have to replace it again. :]

Does your ECU throw any codes?

Valid point, I didn't word that properly. I meant a new unused "plug & play" pump is getting very difficult to find. If OP was looking for a pump they could just fit without having to buy extra fittings, hose, electrical or mounting solutions, the options are limited. Its definitely not impossible, it just might take extra time waiting on the right hardware. :]

*This is all just musing, I have no intentions on doing this... For now* I'm in a bit of a lull waiting on my EA82 getting rebuilt and that's given me time to think. I remember seeing an old rally video showing a race spec EA82. The dual-carb setup they had going got me thinking. What if you did a dual setup using two SPFI throttle bodies rather than carbs? From what I remember the carbs on the rally engine were basically set directly on top of the intake ports either side of the engine. I don't have extensive experience with engines and I only have limited experience to base my ideas off of. Regardless, here's what I'm thinking. An N/A EA82 with MPFI heads (for better flow) with dual SPFI throttle bodies. Setup a quad exhaust (would take some tinkering with the internally split single exhaust ports). Most likely setup with a custom ECU (megasquirt or something similar). The power gains wouldn't be what I'd be going after, rather just an experiment using an outdated engine for the fun of the challenge. Any thoughts? Ideas? Book recommendations to help me better understand the math of engine design? I don't remember reading of anyone doing this but I think it'd be interesting to see it done. Obviously there's a lot that'd have to be considered. Injector CC's, how to plumb the cooling system into the throttle bodies and engine block, sensor locations, etc, etc. I'm just thinking out loud here. :]

scooby2 have you determined if it is your fuel pump that needs replacing? There is a way to put your ECU into "learn" (improper nomenclature) mode and when you turn the key to ON, the fuel pump will turn on in pulses. You'll be able to hear the pump, if you don't hear any pulsed buzzing then you know the pump isn't functioning. In my opinion this is the easiest way to test your pump as you don't have to remove anything other than some plastic panels below the steering column. If this vehicle is a single-point fuel injected model, fuel pumps are basically extinct. There are multiple forum posts on others using different non-OEM pumps so there's always a way to MacGyver something. :]

Here's how I set up my valve. I planned to get a proper piece of EPDM hose and a fitting but there's nothing more permanent than a functional temporary fix. The stock hose does fit on the "rear" fitting, but I also used a tight hose clamp. I soldered the wires to the terminals in the polarity you see in the photos. Red (with the blue heat shrink) is +. In the engine harness connector, the top terminal closest to the connector hook (latch thingy) is -, the bottom vertical terminal is +. :]

I had to replace my EGR solenoid as well. I used an AISIN VST-026. The fittings for the hoses is a bit too small, but you could adapt it by wrapping electrical tape around the solenoid fitting or get a smaller piece of tube and a fitting to adapt it to the stock hose. The AISIN part isn't cheap, but I've heard they outlast the Toyota's they're made for, and that's not too shabby. I'll post a photo later tonight to show the wiring. It's + & - even I can do it.

Have you checked if the throttle position sensor is set properly? Just a thought I had while reading this discussion. My opinion is to check everything you can before chasing the parts dragon. Though it is always good to have spare parts while they're still sparsely available. Never a bad idea to buy a spare if you have the scratch IMO.

Is this a Carb/SPFI/MPFI/Turbo? The different fuel delivery systems use different fuel pumps. (I'm assuming you're talking about a fuel pump, if not then snap a picture of what you're talking about.) If you let us know what it is I can get you a part number to cross-reference online listings. I'm also going to see a parts guy in a few weeks, so I may be able to grab you what you need while I'm there. No promises but it's possible he'll have a spare. :]

Try running on premium. My gauge didn't work but running a few tanks of premium through it made the gauge work again. My guess is the sending unit was sticking and the premium dissolved the residue in the float mechanism. Regular might work too but someone smarter than me would know for sure. Or you could pull the sending unit and clean it/ replace it.

I did find this eBay link to some window cranks. I've bought from this seller in Thailand before, great packaging. Prices are on the higher side but they've got some parts and pieces that are difficult to find. :]

Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

I had an issue somewhat similar to what you're experiencing. My GL would start, only with throttle input and would idle like garbage. But it would smoothen out at slightly higher than idle rpm. What it ended up being is a broken IAC wire in the engine wiring harness. I had to test for continuity while bending the engine harness to try to find the break in the wire. Took me longer than I'd like to admit to find since the IAC tested okay. :]

First thought that comes to my mind is the bearing failed, the shaft got some weeble-wobble and cooked the bearing. Heat went up the shaft and cooked the rotor. If this is an optical distributor, I'd be curious of the condition of the "eye" (the little donut-shaped module that sits under the rotor beneath the metal shield.) That eye module is also made of plastic. It may have also been damaged if this is a toasty bearing scenario. :]

Perhaps the camshafts have been replaced with non-carb cams? Other than having a known carb cam to compare to, I don't know how you'd check this. Someone with more knowledge and experience than I may know. Is there any vacuum leaks to the distributor/ is the vacuum advance operating properly? Does it idle poorly at 8 degrees? :]