SuspiciousPizza

I lay my case for why my spare transmission shouldn't be installed as is. Here are some side-by-side photos of the transmissions for reference. First off they're different models, the spare is an earlier model year (any ideas?). This in itself isn't an issue but the earlier trans did have issues popping out of gear. There are fixes for this of course, but have those modifications been made? The diff on the spare feels sloppier. Not horribly but when comparing to a 280k trans, makes one wonder. The shift shaft on the spare does absolute bupkis. It almost glides freely. There is, as shown in the photos, a liberal amount of sealant to say the least. If it looks like that on the outside, what's the inside like? The previous owner claimed he planned to put it into his Impreza GT, but it was an inch or two too short. If he did get it in and working, I can't imagine this transmission could withstand that power reliably. The GT "was my race car". Any thoughts are appreciated. :]

One of the previous owners before me installed an aftermarket switch for the A/C condenser fan (now used as an auxiliary electric radiator fan). The switch did not fit well and it would fall into the dash if I pressed it incorrectly. It also felt of very suspect quality. So my idea was to use a spare rear wiper switch and install it in a switch slot that was otherwise filled with a plastic blank. However, I worry about the amperage rating of the rear wiper switch. The fan pulls 10A max but the rear wiper motor and washer only pull ≈5.4A collectively. Would it be worth it to give it a go? I just don't want to burn out the switch and damage a good OEM part. Thanks :]

I'm curious about this engine it sounds like it's had some work done. If this rough idle began to occur after the work was done then it may be a timing issue. If this just started occuring out of the blue, then the first thing that comes to my mind is electrical/electromechanical. Checking the timing wouldn't hurt, cylinder #1 is the front passenger-side. Be sure to check your cam timing as well otherwise you're only diagnosing half of the timing. Check the diagnostic table in the FSM for rough idle symptoms. Don't go throwing parts at it, it may be tricky finding something you may not really need. Although it is a good idea to have spare parts. :]

I guess I hadn't clarified why I'm willing to go the less thrifty route with this rebuild (jump off the boat and swim with the sharks, eh?). I'm in my early 20's, still with my folks and this GL is my car... My only car. My window of time living with my folks is quickly closing and I knew I needed a car that was reliable, and easy to work on. However the issues I had with the car were just one after another. It makes sense, the car is old and tired. So my plan is to get the car to somewhat of it's former glory, deal with the big issues (mainly engine and drivetrain) while I don't have a bunch of bills and have the extra parts stashed away for when some smaller issues come up as I start getting my feet under me and navigating life as an adult on my own. Basically I'm taking the "buy once, cry once" approach in the hopes that in the end I'll have a car that will get me through my 20's without a bunch of debt. And no offence taken, in hindsight I shouldn't have bad-mouthed anyone's business. I'm young and learning, I have plenty of mistakes yet to make. I appreciate all y'all's input, I just don't have much experience so learning from other's experiences is very much appreciated. :]

Well I am waiting on my engine rebuilder to contact me about how my engine inspection went and what work will need to be done. I'm having them measure everything (not cheap but if it's worth doing it's worth doing properly). Once they contact me, I'll ask them about the transmission (the one I pulled from the car) and if they'd be willing to have a go at it. I've heard very good things about this shop and they work on anything, they're just busy so progress can be slow. I just gotta have patience. If they aren't willing to work on it, then it's basically up to me to pull the synchros. I've been quite unimpressed by the lack of willingness to work on older vehicles at most shops in my area. I've been told "if we can't plug a scanner into it, we can't work on it". I don't mind getting my hands dirty, it's just when I'm working on something outside of my known skill set on very rare parts, that's where I start to get cold feet. Either way I gotta make a decision. I'll keep y'all posted. :]

I don't intend to do the transmission work myself. I have a FSM so I know the steps, but reading through it, it seems like a nightmare. The main thing I worry about is these vehicles haven't been in my area for nearly 20 years so finding shops/technicians with experience with these older Subarus is difficult. Between the positions of the shift linkages, the very specific steps needed to remove the transfer case, and all the ball bearing detents and springs just waiting to go flying I'm reluctant to send the transmission to a shop and trust it'll be reassembled properly. Even if I give them my hardcopy of the FSM. Right now my trans is just sitting on my garage floor, I've been at a bit of a loss on what to do. I have a spare D/R trans but I don't have a history on it so I'm reluctant to just throw it in and send it

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Full service manuals, so anything you'd want to do with the car can be found here. I'd recommend saving up for a hardcopy as it's nice to have on hand. They pop up on eBay from time to time and sometimes for a really good price. Also if you're serious about repairs, keep your eyes peeled for a parts catalog as this will make tracking down parts easier. Good luck mate :]

Now that numbers are being thrown out, I'll give my 2¢. Without seeing the car in person, the most I'd offer is $500. Even if it's had work done, without seeing it with my own eyes that'd be my top dollar. However, if you sell if to a yokel in the Midwest you could get $7500+ but that's assuming it's been completely redone to factory spec. As Moosens pointed out, the value determination is a buyer's game. These cars are truly cheap and made to stay that way. These aren't your typical classics that you can put a couple grand into and get your money back. They're a money pit. The value is in the emotional attachment. Still a sick ride though.

I'm with Moosens, enjoy it. Loyales have a lot going for them. They're bare bones. Simple and reliable. They're not fast but it's a lot of fun getting them to keep up with traffic. Only thing I'd watch out for with any southwest cars is rubber parts dry rot, so keep an eye on your bushings, vacuum hoses, and especially your fuel hoses. Subaru has given up on these cars, it's up to us crazies now to keep em going. :]

Also consider quality of parts. CV axles, gaskets, hoses, boots, electrical mods. The quality of all these matter greatly. A fully rebuilt Loyale (engine, drivetrain, suspension, weatherstripping, etc) is worth far far less than the sum of it's parts. Photos of the car in question would help. :]

Double clutch helps but there is still resistance and noise when downshifting to 3rd. I'm more inclined to just leaving it be. A new throw out bearing, cable, and shift linkage bushings will help. Although if it'd be best to rebuild, then I'll go that route. I live in a hilly area so smooth downshifting is nice. These cars aren't safe nor fast. Turning onto a blind uphill 55 zone from a stop sign can be sketchy. It'd be preferable if my transmission operated as it should when I needed it to.

I have been progressing through my engine rebuild and the time had come to pull my transmission for a reseal. Additionally, I would like to address what I believe to be a 3rd & 4th gear synchro issue. I can only upshift into 3rd smoothly above 5k RPM and I cannot downshift into 3rd without a minor grind followed by an audible 'click'. My clutch cable and throw out bearing were shot, compounding the down shifting issue. Question: Could I take the 3rd/4th gear synchro out a '92 Loyale S/R 4WD trans and use that in my '89 5M D/R trans? Is there a specific oil (ATF flush?) I could use that would potentially resolve this issue? The case has to be split for the reseal anyways so if a synchro needs replacing, you're already in there. Thanks :]

A "more gentle" option may be an induction heater. If you don't have one yet, I'd recommend saving up for a decent Chinese one ($200 range), they work wonders. That way you're only heating up what you need to and you're not affecting the temper of the steel as much. I've never removed an EA81 cam gear, just my 2¢. Any machine shop worth their salt would tackle that no problem. :]

Parts are out there, but they're not common at all. If it were me, I'd pull the turbo engine and keep it around. Then pull your NA EA81 and convert it to TBI using an EA82 SPFI intake and throttle body. There is documentation out there of how to do this but you'd be looking at a bit of work. Either way I'd say it's worth it, save these cars and SAVE YOUR PARTS! Good luck mate :]

Ahhh, I see. I'm mechanically-minded so electronics isn't my forte but I can wrap my head around it. Thank you for the explanation I didn't realize RPM correlated with current. I'll be installing a '90 Loyale radio/cassette deck and removing my rear speakers in hopes to mitigate the whine *it's annoying*. Stock radio is 10 or 15W and my aftermarket was 50W. Also makes sense. Thanks again. :]

I have a service manual with wiring diagrams. I'll post photos later tonight after work. It's an '89 service manual so wire colors and connector colors may vary but terminal positions should be the same, your mileage may vary so it wouldn't hurt to confirm continuity between terminals with a multimeter. :]

The parts manual I have is '85 -'90 so take this with a grain of salt. Rear Spring: 21091GA530 Left Front Spring: 21091GA260 Right Front Spring: 21091GA250 Front Strut Mount: 21033GA040... You could also use KYB SM5364 :]

I used King Overload Springs, they ride rough at first but they improved the car's stability and load capacity greatly. Later tonight I'll look up the part number for the springs and post em here. Rear springs are a piece of cake to replace. Only hang-up I had was the upper mount bolts were torqued to infinity and beyond and it took a few minutes of whacking with a 500 ft/lb impact before they finally came loose. A few months ago I did see a few listings for NOS OEM springs, they are still out there but I went with King Springs for the handling and carrying capacity as well as the more consistent availability. :]

I do have an aftermarket radio, and it's an absolute rat nest underneath the steering column and behind the glovebox. I figured this was a good candidate to begin diagnostics. There is plenty of wire nuts, misc wire gauges, and "good enough" wiring *facepalm* indeed. Would anyone have a wiring diagram for an '89 radio? I don't even know which model of radio came with the car from factory, let alone the wiring. Alternator does seem to be pushed pretty close to its capacity, but I'm not convinced it's the alternator. Voltage drop during turn signal flashes is 2-4 volts according to the volt meter in the gauge cluster, a big drop. Alternator is a Nissan Maxima VG30E alternator mod. Pretty commonplace. :]

I currently have my GL all torn apart to address some well entrenched gremlins. The main issue I have a question regarding is why does my fuel pump bog and whine when I use my turn signals? Fuel pump operates as it should (although I don't have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up at the moment, I will be adding several gauge pods, including a fuel pressure gauge, once I get the engine back in my car.) However, whenever I used my turn signals my fuel pump would whine a different tone only when the turn signals blinked. Between blinks it would have a normal tone. The negative terminal arcs when I plug in the battery, indicating a short (?) Obviously I'd assume it's a wiring or ground issue (almost all the grounds in the engine bay were caked in oil, grease, and dirt but I've been thoroughly cleaning the engine bay with Simple Green and a multi-pack of tooth brushes while I have the space to do so.) Would anyone have any pointers? Would I be able to use the fuse box to check which circuit is shorting? I can read a multimeter, have a very basic understanding of circuitry and have a full set of service manuals at my disposal. Thanks! :]

If the socket is still functional, I'd just RTV it to the housing. The plastic is old and just breaks down over time. If it doesn't work, you have a few options. 1: Find a side marker assembly online and use the socket outta that, but again with the plastic being so old, it's a shot in the dark if it's lugs are broken or not. 2: Buy a universal #194 lightbulb socket (Amazon, eBay) and RTV that to the housing. You may get lucky with some searching (I found some Loyale sockets with a Google search along the lines of "Subaru GL 194 lightbulb socket".) Good luck on your search!

@gazza01 Not to hijack the thread, but how do you stand the engine when using your timber + hammer method? I have a seized EA82 I desperately want the con rods out of. I worry about gouging the deck surfaces if I stand the engine on end. I also worry too much padding to protect the deck surface would absorb impacts. Thanks

Mine also has the "hose to nowhere". I don't know how the emissions system fully operates, other than observationally ("this hose goes there, this one is for vacuum, etc") but my guess is that it's an overflow tube. You're good to just stuff the hose through that hole below the headlight mount.

I believe welding supply stores sell liquid nitrogen but you may need a dewar flask or a specific container, some places are picky and may not let you use any old yeti cup. I know for a fact welding supply stores sell dry ice though and it's cheap. Just bring a cooler.