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Is it possible her car has the eight bolt bellhousing? Earlier EJ22 have only have four.

Two other quick thoughts 1) the "Children's" manual is not highly thought of as it has been misleading many times. Alldata is a better bet. 2) Sorry I have no other reference . please double check the code. These are at this link ECU codes - 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit -- 1988 and Later Models with Multi-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 5 and 6 (XT-6) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (XT) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 17 Fuel injector No. 1 and 2 (XT-6) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit

do you have the old engine? Use the sensors off of it that match the old wiring harness. You should have recieved an email moments after you registered at the Justy board, may want to check your spam filters.

You are most welcome, happy to help what little we can, it's just that we do not get a ton of Justy questions here.

Susie, JDM is short for Japanese Domestic Market as you said he installed an engine from Japan. The CEL will go out and the ECU will store an error code. The Alldata manual should give you a way of retrieving these stored error codes. Probably by connecting two similar colored connectors under the dash by the steering column. Since the light came on upon starting the new engine I suspect a wiring incompatibility problem. I do not mean to steer you away but you may want to copy / paste your original question on http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/ after registering there. I agree hard wired is not the permanent solution for you.

Hi Susie, very nice of you to help the hubster in this endeavor. Now If this is true The electrical diagram does show the fan being controlled by the ECU then yes this would help. Also I was wondering if the trouble codes could be of help in pinpointing the problem? It is possible some of the wiring for the JDM is different than the state side model. The ECU would use a thermosensor (sometimes refereed to as a Coolant Sensor CS) to control the fans and it's wiring would be of utmost importance. If the wiring is incorrect and the input from the CS is missing or out of range, the ECU will show an error code via the CEL (Check Engine Light).

I would like to see this 97 OB with the EZ engine. Please post a photo or a link to it. If someone put it in an OB the same would go for a Legacy as Chux says it would be a chore but only being 2 cm longer (less than an inch) than an EJ, the fit would not be the problem. The tranny bolt up and wiring well... they went to 8 bolt bellhousing but not in 97. The varriable intake and other bits.. good luck may the power of the Pleiades be with you. show me this 97 EZ30 OB first please

EZ30 in a 97 OB?? Subaru 6 cyl history

It sounds like you and hubby have a fair amount of auto knowledge. Some semantics do need addresses however. First a "thermosensor" is a device that outputs a variable signal based on it's temperature. (variable resistance in most cases, a variable voltage in others) These are used by the dash gauge and by the ECU. On the other hand a "thermoswitch" is basically an on/off switch which is controlled by the temperature. These are used to control cooling fans. Hubby should check the fuse for the fan although the statement about the juice being present, indicates it is still in an operable state. If he does not own an ammeter he can do a quick test of the fan by using a 10 amp fuse to "hot-wire" the fan to the battery - the fan should draw about 5 to 7 amps max. If it blows a 10 amp I would suspect the bearings or windings. It is possible the fan thermoswitch (TS) has failed. Older generation Subarus ran the entire control amperage through the TS and it's contacts would deteriorate over time. A new TS should be cheaper than a fan motor if it proves at fault. The elevated temp of closure is another indication of this. Sorry I have no info on the location, the TS in some Subarus was mounted in the rad. If the fans are controlled by the ECU as in Legacys this entire diatribe is not applicable. There is no diode in the fan motor that I have ever heard/read about. Hope this helps.

On a serious note. With the key in the run position and the head light switch in the OFF position. Connect a test light to ground and then check for juice on the main harness connection. (unplug the headlights - both sides) One terminal on the left and one on the right should have juice if not check fuses 9 and 10 (as per 84 FSM) This is the common terminal for the lights. The element(s) you want to illuminate (high or low) is (are) provided a ground by the hi/lo stalk when the headlight switch is on. Hope this helps. There is no other relay involved in the illumination (the sub fan control is involved but does not affect the lighting of said lamps).

ant in put would be grand This ant asks if you have the key turned to the run position? The vehicle year and make would help the other ants help you.

When you're set up to do the timing belt though and the cams get away on you they aren't going to hit the pistons because they're all halfway down. Just a side note - this is also true of the EA82 series. The valves can hit each other if the cams go the wrong way when they spin. Now THAT is a very good thing to know!! Thanks Tech

"With #1 cylinder at TDC where are the other cylinders relative to TDC irrespective of what stroke they may be on?" And in answer to the question I think you might be asking - when you are all lined up to change the belt all 4 pistons are halfway down the bore. Two different positions mabye this will help the orig question Thanks to McBrat and the USRM

I think you just upgraded your emergency proceedure. thank you.

agreed, but show me a car that does lock in the position described. in a panic situation having some one worry they may lock the steering sounds like a poorly engineered system. What car does this?

Some of us even need our emerg proceedures updated. All the Soobs I drive have to have the key REMOVED before the steering lock is enabled. In a panic situ trying to turn the key one click is not ness. "Turn key off" is all that is needed to be mentioned. Please go try this in your car and prove me wrong.

"More likely a floor mat jammed under the pedal" Strange very strange indeed?? Sorry for the jest, I still like my idea.

Hope this helps

My first guess is a problem with the plantar fascia. Medial ligaments on the inside and lateral ligaments on outside enable the foot to move up and down. Sorry just a WAG. Audi 5000s comes to mind.

sorry John, I believe the reason you picked up speed was not the clutch pack disengaging but the TCU shifting the car into first gear. In "2" the TCU locks the tranny in second gear, used when low traction is prevalent and the lowered gear ratio would cause tire spin. You do not grace us with the year/car you used for this test so I could be mistaken.

JE, you will need a code reader tool After reading the code that caused the CEL then clear it with the tool. Most Autozones stores will do this service for free. Hope this helps.

I'm with Turbone but how about this Barrett-Jackson sale Guy lost his shirt 100k$ to build hammer fell around 30 Be better with a EJ IMHO but Tatum Sand Rail

pursuant to GD's post here is the wiring for the aux relay (standard aux lighting relay)

Thanks for the idea Nathan (guess we posted almost at the same time). I do suspect the VSS# 1 output is the same as #2. I believe the ECU uses #1 if #2 is absent. I would like a semi working speedometer and your idea would provide it. The closest county without the emission inspection is about .75 click from where I live - thanks for your reply and that may be an option.

Thanks for the encouragement Nip, I guess in your rush to add something you missed the part about the fuse in the FWD holder. To answer your noisy switch comment. I, for reasons of simplicity, left out the fact that I will incorporate a type of Schmitt trigger using an IC 555 in mono stable mode. This will be filtered through a Brokaw bandgap style filter thus proving a bounce free output very similar to the output of a Hall effect switch. Which most know is what the oem VSS is. I may be wrong but this simple bench work will be much easier than pulling the tranny. I thank you humbly for taking the time to respond.