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Cody, you will get a lot of opin's on this. I am sure you know the ER is just your EA with two more cyl tacked on. Great engine and it bolts to your transaxle without the adapter plate. Very nice flat torque curve. Problem comes to where to put the rad. Motor mounts are close but so are the EJ's Wiring - well The ER is much closer to your EA esp if you have MPFI which I doubt. but I hope you know your way around wiring diagrams and are multimeter friendly. Hope this helps some and good luck.

The ECU ignors the 02 sensor until it enters closed loop. Coolant temp sensor ("thermosensor" as it's called in the FSM) tells the ECU the H20 temp. 170 deg F is around where your car goes into closed loop. So the cold start stumble and the 02 sensor are probably unrelated. For the 02 grounding issue. I use a small worm type hose clamp (like for a heater hose) to fasten a wire to the 02 sensor body then run the wire to a chassis ground point.

look out for? the screws holding the back plate on the oil pump backing out does this qualify guys? I guess it could lead to a disaster?

Mike I'll let Nipper anf John handle this from now on, but you have a 4EAT. meaning 4 speed Electronic Automatic Transmission. It still, to my feable mind, sounds like low hyd pressure to the clutches. I read you have similar trouble reading the dip stick. You could have tried the Lucas and we still don't know if the tranny is full? I believe Nipper was hoping to rule out a breech of the trans fluid cooler located inside the radiator. As I said I'm unsubscribing as it appears Nipper and John have a better handle on this. Good luck sir, hope it warms up soon and that Phil was correct.

Opus, Please have her check the floor mat. They can creep up and cause this. Next step is the IAC or throttle cable or...

Aramcheck, nice work on the fix. I like your OH Bee's color. Couldn't help but noticing it appears you did the same conversion to your fog lights that I do. I use the Hella 500's on both my OBs I use the driving light version (then repl the 55w with 100w lamps) I have them wired via relay to come on with my high beams. Some people say it's not the best place for driving lights but they light the road quite well thank you.

Nipper don't be so hard on yourself. You were right as usual (see below link) Ethanol and dry gas I think the search needs four letter words to work.

daeron, the confusion here I believe is you are reading about and referring to the CTS found on the turbo model of your engine. That engine has the MPFI fuel distribution system. These engines (EA82T) have problems with the contacts on the CTS. (Most GL-10s where EA82Ts) From the picture and your write up it appears you have the SPFI model. The new sensor should have the barrel shaped connector (as in your picture). Thus, no splicing is needed. Very few problems have been reported with this type of connection. If you want to test yours here is a chart from the 87 FSM for the SPFI CTS note the inverse proportion. i.e. higher temp => lower resistance Deg F Resistance 14 ---- 7-11.5 K ohms 68 ----- 2-3 K ohms 122 --- 700 - 1000 ohms hope this helps

Sorry Nipper, that was not a Subaru option it was a company choppin' tops 1984 GL turbo convertible (done by an aftermarket company)

Does the "AT" light on the dash flash when the car is started? This is the way the TCU tells you it detects a problem. After the drive, when put in "D" it just sits - no gear engagement? No noise? How about reverse? I agree overfilling an auto tranny is frowned upon. I also have a difficult time getting a true reading on all my Legacys auto dip sticks.

thanks to Turbone and a quick search

Mike I don't believe they (Lucas) tell you to drain any fluid. There was one big diff between Sun night and Tue morn -- about 30 deg F

John I would have to say that is as close as you'll get with out doing a proper flush. Mixing the tranny honey with ATF in a warm house will greatly reduce the time it takes to add it. P.S. I would like to read about other personal use comments on the Lucas tranny honey. My experience was with a 3AT and an early 4EAT both showed better shift characteristics. and quicker into drive when cold. Both fixes could simply be read as thicker hyd fluid = better hyd pressure and some cleaning of the spool valves ect in the tranny. May be just what an aging hyd pump and innards of an auto tranny needs sometimes.. We all know what "Bob" thinks about the oil additive but the auto tranny is a different animal.

CVs will most likely make noise when turning sharply and accelerating, have you tried that? DOJs** on the other hand will exhibit the problem you are having. ** Double Offset Joint - other end of the half shaft - next to the transaxle. P.S. might be a kewl idea linking to your previous posts

Hey Nip, you are normally very observant. Did you catch something I missed or is Kenya the 51st state in the union?

Sure sounds like a classic low hyd pressure problem. Every body will say get a tranny flush not just a drain and fill. I have had good luck with Lucas Trans fix. Might keep you going untill the weather warms abit. If you do choose to use it - keep it in the house before adding it. Even then it will take an hour to pour it all in. Hope this helps

Time to rule out possiblities, replace the thermostat with a factory read Subaru OEM part. There have been more threads reporting problems centered around using a non OEM unit. (coils toward the block) H20 pump impeller loose? After a bit of driving it sticks to the shaft. Fan belt tight? Slips at first with the alt drain charging the bat from just starting the engine? Burb the coolant system. WAGs to be sure but gotta start somewhere. Hope this helps.

Hi Katie welcome to the USMB. Your problem is with the fuel injection coolant sensor. This is what the code refers to and it what is making it hard to start,as the engine's computer does not know what the temp of the engine is. Any competent shop should be able to change this sensor. They cost on the order of 35 dollars and can be bought at a good auto parts place. good luck and I hope this helps.

Since our man does not grace us with the year, model, or fuel system type--- I guess we guess? The SPFI system on his car can have a labyrinth of problems causing his malady. The first thing that comes to mind on an engine as poorly maintained as this, is the connection pipe from the MAF to the intake is cracked or loose. A fuel filter is on the list but the fact it ....... After that a guess is only a guess.

Gad I am gettin' old I remember the "original" Scambler and it did come with a V8 a 390 cid if I remember. Was a connection with Hurst at the time (shift as hard as you want but don't break your arm) Any other "oldies" our there Oh yea and welcome to the good ship USMB

If you replaced the pilot bushing did you check to see if it fits the tranny input shaft wrong parts are not common butttt.... thin coating of grease on the input shaft nose, splines and tranny input shaft collar helps sometimes. Putting the shifter in gear, locking one wheel and turning the other helps. I will assume you used a clutch plate alignment tool. If not once you have it close loosen the PP bolts through the starter opening or under the car by the flywheel. Don't forget to tighten them when it seats. Good luck, hope this helps some.

Thank you very much Emily. I will edit my post.

My first call would be a U Haul place. Please remember, as with most imports, your brake and turn signals are separate. Trailers are not. The converter boxes are readily available. (NAPA, ect. -- Wally World even..) Even with the use of one the "stop lamp out" check light will still illuminate (easy way for you to tell your trailer brake lights are working.) As Frank says wiring is not hard. Please do not use "Scotch locks" (The fold over the wire connectors). My method is to strip about .75" of insulation off a section of the wire you are attaching to. Separate the stands, feed the new wire through the stands and twist it around the stripped section. Looks like this when done Notice the factory wire is uncut and corrosion will not affect the lighting of the lamp on the car. Solder is prefered but good electrical tape (Scotch Super 33 for instance) is essential. Hope this helps.

Over-tightening the bolt may cause the bolt to stretch and/or break. Over-tightening may also cause damage to the crankshaft snout. There have been reports of crankshaft snouts that have sheared off after incorrect pulley bolt installation. The above is from an End Wrench art. Please note: The FSM I have lists the torque for this bolt as 79 ft-lbs but as per Emily of CCRINC (see below) this has been changed to 125 ft-lbs. Thanks again for the correction Emily. You might want to search for an art. in End Wrench

Like Nipper says but if you feel ambitious you could wire a LED to the signal wire from the TCU. I built this to monitor my Legacy's 4EAT. One of the indicators is "TL" which indicates when the TC is locked The entire post can be seen here 4EAT monitor