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nk, voltage should be present any time engine is running . You found a thermosensor at advanced, kewl, but I would use a OEM for this important part. Sure you don't mean dash gauge sender unit (called a thermometer in the FSM) The thermosensor has the same type connector as the AAV and is burried deep in the back pass side of the intake manifold. For kickies, check the ground for the ECU and other dash components. It is located under the pass side front intake manifold bolt. I say this as the element in the AAV may also get it's ground from this point. BTW the fuse for the AAV is number 12. Hope this helps.

John, as you can see in the above picture my timing belt (also a 97 OB) still looked intact when the side cover was removed. The center cover must come off meaning the crank harmonic damper must come off This is torqued to 125 lb-ft or more. Read not an easy removal. I used the "rope trick*" to get mine off as my 1/2" impact gun even at 150 PSI wouldn't budge it. (my engine was out of the car on a stand) I don't know if you can use the rope trick as getting to the spark plug holes is tuff nut. Might try the kamikaze maneuver**, as it has worked for many. Good luck mate. * rope trick => stuff about 5' of cotton clothsline down the spark plug hole to block the piston from moving ** kamikaze maneuver => prop a breaker bar on the crank pulley against the ground or frame and hit the starter.

Ghetto or not you are asking for trouble. Daeron mentioned an entity lost in your painting. You do not grace us with what car this is but if it is a 93 it will have had and need an 02 sensor "bung'd in somewhere near the front. You say you have been running with no pipes? => no 02 sensor It will run very rich and the CO dumpin right under your butt is not a place I would want to sit in traffic. Go ghetto but go smart while your at it. A balance tube will help plus the crosmember is formed for a single pipe, i.e. the mufflers will sit very low the way you have it drawn. Good luck

may look like a good deal but re read 970's post he metions Jhot and says Twin T's will not fit a USD car. Does your Imp have drum brakes on the rear? Where's Dr RX?

the funny whine.... well if one of the idler pulleys went KaPOOT it could run badly with the timing belt skipping and shredding itself until it took out the valves all cyl in both heads. Mine did this, the funny whine was the engine turning over with no compression on any cylinder. Sorry, I sure hope I'm wrong

I have a issue with Elroy's post on the air pressure vs air volume. His statement is no doubt based on the fact that X PSI will empress Y pounds (force) = X times A (the square area in inches) of what the gas is contained in. If an expandable entity has a volume V, and it has a certain volume of air (V) in it. If it is constrained by supporting a weight (the corner of said vehicle). Now if you want to increase the volume in said entity by adding more air and thus bring the weight to a level higher than it was initially. I can see no way to do it without forcing air in at a higher pressure and thus increasing the pressure in said entity. Note it does not support any more weight just increases the height the weight is carried. Two items come to mind. One: a tire, adding air makes the tire taller and increases the height of the corner. In this case the contact patch and thus the "A" in the above example does change. Two: my motor home has air bags and to increase ride height, I add air (via onboard comp. and air tank), the corner goes up, and the air pressure gauge (mine has one for each corner) goes up. The contact patch of the air bag does not change appreciably. But the volume V contained in both examples does increase. Comments? PV=NRT

it should show a blown head gasket as the compressed air would leak into the coolant system and cause bubbles to form and or coolant to spue from the rad.

The AAV (Aux. Air Valve) is a controlled vacuum (air) leak. As you suspect it controls the idle speed by varying this air leak. The control valve is actuated by a bi-metal spring heated by an element. It sits on the t-stat so that if the electric heating element fails the coolant temp will take over control. The heating element it controlled by the ECU. This connector is similar to the connector on the FI coolant thermosensor. First remove the connector and look for signs of corrosion. Here is an easy way to remove these connectors using two pieces of thin wire inserted under the clip. Next check for battery voltage across the connector with the engine running. Check all the rubber lines to and from the AAV. You might also want to check the thermosensor, maybe the ECU doesn't know the engine is warmed up as fast as it should.

Shawn you say almost acting like it isn't getting fuel. It takes more gas when moving than just sitting and winding up the RPM. Would you please describe the fuel system you have. Factory EA81T pump? Filter? Regulator, Pump control system. Might want to plumb a fuel pressure gauge in to the fuel rail pumbing, maybe just after the fuel filter. Note: an electric oil pressure gauge will work. I have done this for testing purposes. The sender is designed to not melt down with gasoline (think oil saturated with gas from a flooding carb or other such problem). A brass "T" plus two hose barbs - and we have a bingo. Hope this helps.

"15.9 Foot lbs each" bit of tip there that he wasn't doing HG. Time for a leak down test I'd say. Leak down testing Link Take one variable out of the equation.

if his is a EJ25? You might want to check the rear end ratios. The automatic 2.5L in the Legacy OB is 4:11, I don't know about the 5 speeds. I very well could be taking a big lead here... (read "way off base") But it is one thing to check.

56,000 miles and the tranny is KaPoot??? I'm sure you checked the fluid level. Does it smell burnt? Flush and pray. Nipper should chime in soon about the possibility of the front pump being bad, but since reverse and second use the same gearing, 2nd should work also. Headgaskets already?? I know they can go at any mileage but 56 k?? LE Mon comes to mind. Sorry for all your troubles.

If I may be so bold, I would like to add to Rodger's excellent explaination. " The pressure regulator is like a (relief)valve that bleeds off the pressure from the system and returns it to the tank." This regulator is positioned after the fuel rails thus maintaining the pressure above the injectors. "On my turbo wagon the pressure would run from 30 - 45psi depending on how much you are" boosting, as the fuel rail pressure is a function (or measured from - if you will) the intake manifold pressure (as per the FSM*) As the boost pressure increase so does the fuel pressure above the injectors, thus keeping the mixture "fat" (also known as "rich"). This done in an effort to prevent detonation. During this time the ECU ignors the 02 sensor and relies on the FPR and PWM** of the injectors to keep it fat. An aftermarket RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator differs in so much that the pressure increases at a rate that is higher than the factory increase. This follows what Rodger astutely points out in refernce to increasing the fuel injected from the injectors. Sorry if this make it as clear as chocolate milk. *Factory Service Manual ** Pulse Width Modulation

GK you might want to snope around over here Justy only Forum You mean lower mileage engine or different engine? They, your EA82 engine, were never known as mileage champs.

970Subaru lays it out perfectly! I hope you understand the"enormity" of this type of project and reading more about it will let you get a handle on it. Not just the driveline/electronics but you should also consider the safety factor of upgarding the entire susp and brake systems. Ball park - 5-10,000+ USD Corky (Dr RX) is your man, he has done something similar to this to an earlier RX. He knows the ins and out better than anyone I know. BTW It might help to change the subject of your post.

Maybe ?? " I JUST CAN'T UNSTAND HOW WITH MY COOLING SYSTEM UNDER PRESSURE, CAN GET AIR GATHERING INSIDE THE SYSTEM" Gad that is hard to read. If the system looses some coolant by one of the methods Leg777 or Gary mentioned. When the car cools off and the coolant contracts, it will pull air in either from the leak or the overflow bottle (if it is empty). Hope this helps.

What Commuter says and to add pictures = kwords. My 97 OB is two stacked single DIN units (as he says - no pocket) and my clock is still in the radio display. As seen

Deep Creep is the muts nuts after Kroil and Ed's Yield but why reitorate she will do as she will do. Atleast she is not using WD "perfume" 40 Yippee ki yo Cowgirl, you rock

I like to review some things that have been said. as Runout asks for troubleshooting help. To the Best of My Knowledge (TBMK) Starting with Runout "There is juice to the coil and gas to the throttle body. I can't measure any electrical current at the end of the coil though. Even put my finger on the end of the coil during a crank over." TBMK this means there is no high voltage present on the coil during cranking. Although if he didn't have the coil wire in he may not get "the juice" as the coil tower is quite tall? dearon "pop the disty cap off, and have someone watch it while you crank the engine. If the distributor turns as it should, then your driver side timing belt is still intact.." TBMK This is good advice wish he would have done this. (see below) Revbil "I would still check the rotor just to be sure, since there is a screw that holds the rotor on that can fall out and cause the same symptoms." No doubt Revbill meant the "same symptoms" as no running, not no spark. Because TBMK the coil would still make spark if the rotor scew fell out. Dave "Also, the belt can strip some teeth off, so it looks like it's intact, but won't actually work. That's what happened when my belt blew" TBMK even when it looses a few teeth (unless it stops turning completely, which is no doubt what Dave meant), we still have spark but it is out of time with the valves. Phiz " Your manual might be getting the EA82 and EJ series engines mixed up. EJ's have 1 belt as far as I am aware of. EA82's have 2." As usaul Phizinza has his beans in a pile, hope Runout is not using some Children's (Chilton"s) manual. And in finality Runout " I took off the cover on drivers side and the belt is ok. " Unless Dave's right or the woodrif key sheared on the crank pulley. "I have not checked the rotor while cranking and will check that too." Easier than yanking a cover if you have one of these Houston we may have a problem. Ignition amplifiers seldom fail but.....

Sorry for the corn-fusion of me calling a 2.5 block with 2.2 heads an " EJ23.5 " It does raise the comp the real EZ way though. Think about it is an EA82 - 8.2 liters? An EA81 - 8.1L an so on It's just what I coined to call it, again sorry for my off the wall nom -de plume -clature. I promise to be more literate in the future. and call it "Fra N Ken Stein" :^)

The factory 6 CD player I have mounts below the factory radio. Unlike the McIntosh in my VDC, which is all one unit.

Sorry Eagle I read this "coming from behind/near the center console" to mean the radio center console I would check the heatshields and look for something rubbing on the driveshaft.

I have no idea why I answer this, get serious and buy a starter switch from an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. No wires - just a cable to pull the contacts together. Switch unit is the under the hood, simple choke cable into the cockpit. No wires, no chance of short circuits, no flaky relays Just your idea of dependable. (wonder why they phased them out in 1960?) You will no doubt be happy to read I am unsubscribing from this thread and will leave you to your devises. Sorry I couldn't help.

My check mark goes by driver's side timing belt broke

a picture would help, are you saying there is no radio? If there is a radio. There should be a button marked "Display" or "DISP" Try pushing it.