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quote the Nipper "By pressureizing it you lower the boiling point of the coolant." Some new physics or in need of a physic?? http://www.ch.cam.ac.uk/magnus/boil.html

put a temp "T"ee into the line after the MBC going to the WG then connect your boost gauge to it that will show you if it's the problem

weak spark from the coil could be the ignition amplifier power transistor

This is covered by a TSB for the Forester. It uses an Impreza platform and the wheel bearings are not suitable for the weight evidently. I have had both a Forester and an Impreza do this. The fix is to substitute the Legacy style roller bearing wheel bearing.

I vote for a plugged fuel filter the chirping may be the fuel pump dead heading against it or the fuel pump itself is going south and the bearings are doing the chirping song of death.

I'll throw my sheckles in this pot. I know you don't want to hear about how many years ...yada yada yada but I cut my teeth on British cars and their rust beats the tar out of Roo rust - many of their bolts are fine thread (no not "T"witworth - those are just on plumbing parts) and their nut to stud tolerance is so loose that rust works it's way deep. First a propane/mapp gas torch ain't gonna cut it! get a "proper" ox-cetelen blue tip hot wrench. Clean the rust off the exposed stud with a wire brush (I have a small "toothbrush" size I use, but one on a Dremmel works better) Concentrate at the junction between the stud and the nut I use a scratch awl or small bladed screw driver here. reason: if this rust ring is not cleaned off - as soon as the nut turns, it captures this rust ring under the nut and can gaul it to the point of thread destruction. - WORD. next heat the nut to cherry red - it must be cherry red Propane/mapp is not hot enough for this. Get your six point on it and turn CLOCKWISE first for an eighth - quarter turn - say what?? That's tighter you say?? Yes this act will break the rust ring mentioned earlier. Now clean again if ness, reheat and have at it lefty lucy. BTW: If you hear a "creaking" noise - stop and reheat. That is the sound you will hear before "bing AWchit!!" if you keep turning said fastener. Hope this helps, but doubt it will.

blower motor bearings

I concure sold in CA found it's way to Pittsburgh PA was sighted for sale here. I almost went and well ..... Was a Blazer rear if I remember correctly.

Doubt the MAF has anything to do with the error. Reset the ECU via the instructions HERE The no spark might be the ignition amplifier (often mistakenly called the ignitor) located on the coil bracket under the coil. This switching power transistor amplifies the signal from the ECU. This is why the coil does not show voltage readings like some of the other older systems.

Two items come to mind 1) coolant loss from cracked head - as Bucky says the crack is into the exhaust and will be vaporized. look to see what generation heads you have look under the car infront of the exhaust port. there you will find cast into the head "EA82" if just plain = Gen I - very prone to cracks if underlined (i.e. EA82 ) = Gen II -- no so prone if boxed = Gen III - almost crack proof ** Please note: just about all the heads have hairline cracks between the valve seats. This is not the crack I am talking about, these are usually not terminal. The crack I mention is in the exhaust port and is terminal. 2) Temp fluctuation. Your rad needs replaced. These tend to have the fins delaminate from the tubes - no flush job will help this. To see this condition you must remove said rad. Very very common condition. Hope this helps somewhat.

My system (MY00 2.5 RS) requires I push the "programing button" located under the dash panel. Here is a link, find your system - maybe it will help? Subaru Security Systems

When I saw what a good fit the KC Hiliters were when placed into the TS openings and feeling the same way Gloyale feels about side visability. I rewired mine to the white parking lights beside the head lamps and left the yellow as the parking light. I removed the head lamp assm. and ran the wires directly to the side lamps. Cut / solder splices. I then got higher wattage bulbs at Advanced Auto Parts. This corrected the "blink rate".

thank Nip - you knew that I knew that. now maybe some others know that

Thanks Daeron, no I didn't. I now have a AWD 5 speed 2.5RS that I tow four down behind the motor coach. Been doing it for three years now with no problem.

By chance is the heater control system stuck in one mode? The white cyl.on the shelf behind the pass strut is the vac. res. for both systems. Possibly the line to it has been dislodged.

Hi Doug, welcome aboard The man you need to talk to here has the screen name "Phizinza". Take a look at this post (has some good photo's that might help). click the link below Phiz's gearbox descript. Then use the PM (Private Message) system by clicking on his name, he will know the answer. Good luck and hope this helps.

inaccurate reading of the petrol gauge wilst climbing a grade?

As a new guy on the board you need to evaluate your options. Do you have the time, tools and expierence to find a place to buy the contacts, yank the starter, tear into it and replace the solenoid internals? or as these iginion switches are known to cause some problems at this age Go for getting a relay and an inline fuse at Walmart, NAPA ect a few feet of wire and have a go at the relay fix Daeron and I explain? choice is yours batter up Good luck and we all hope this helps.

I'd try this if all connections are clean

Do you know if this car received the Crbrid steering fix that was part of the recall/TSB? A single wire coming from the power module is an indication that it did.

thanks for the info on the bolt patern many people, including me, are running an EJ22 SOHC in an Outback that came with the EJ25 DOHC We don't change the ECU and there is no messing with the cam/crank sensors. It plugs in and plays. Maybe the 05 is different but with the 98 heads the cam sensor will be the same.

no one has mentioned the front DOJs -> Double Offset Joints aka inner CV joints They can cause starnge vibrations upon accel - only.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the 05 short block will have the eight bolt tranny mount and the 98 will have the four bolt set up.

Sorry for the confusion, the "shift on the fly" I mention is concerning the hi to low range as that is the gear set I speak of and Phizinza is describing All my D/R trannied Subes except for my RX should not be shifted at any speed above a crawl from hi range into low range. It no doubt can be done but not as easiliy as the RX. Thus my mention of sycros between the gear sets. The RX is made to do this in order to keep the engine in the fat of the torque band in situations not requiring a full gear up/down shift. Yielding essentially a ten speed gear box.

Phiz, you are by far the tranny master !! Thank you for taking the time to explain this. I have a question - on the bottom box shot you say the D/R is a 1.2 set up. Is it true that beside the gears I see sycros? Could this be another way to tell the 1.2 setup? As the RX setup (1.2) is shift on the fly whereas the 1.5 is not?