Skip

Here is an excellent write up and the guy that did it is way kewl. Go to his "home" page and see the entire work of art http://www.subarubrat.com/mybrat.htm

Sorry, G it is intended for my RX project.

Adrian, I have a steady bar bracket here I have not installed yet. If you want I will send you pictures and dimensions. If so PM or email me. Rgrds, Skip

15" Pugs 205/55's Subaru center caps custom fitted The GL-10 beside Willy has "star" 13s Can get a better pict of those if wanted.

Thanks guys The target looking devise is a compass and the altimeter (well it is a barometer as thats how altimeters of this nature work) is next to it. The red read out is a digital lab thermometer for the oil and H20 temps. The row of switches control rad fan, lights, aux temp alarm the oil/H20 readout and the inverter. Beside the cell phone is the CD changer control. The blue rocker switch is the AC on/off control. The button above it is for "Da Bomb"** ** Da Bomp is a tank of ATF mixed with MMO connected to the intake manifold through a solenoid valve. I think you can guess what it's for.

Actually one more thing. These heads also have a pugnacity for developing a crack in the exhaust port runner. Best to look for this when you have the heads off. It will show up as a steam cleaned line seen when looking up the exhaust port.

"...sometimes i've made it and sometimes i haven't!" Very bad idea - going this low and running a FI car out of gas. To each his own -- but I don't recommend this method.

Trust Ed - he be the man. I have always prefered removing the lower control arm to frame bolt(s). The brake line bracket and the sway bar if so equipped come off no problem. All these bolts came loose very EZ.

Try here for a station near you Techron Cust. Service

I think you mean your idle UP solenoid? Keeps the idle up when the AC comp. is on. These are different for different cars. Look for a devise that used to hit the thottle linkage in the area behind the carb, it will be an electric solenoid. You may have disconnected it with the new carb or it needs repositioned.

Correct and I'm sure Michelle M. would agree but Eric C. might spell that S - A - A - B !!

That's the second time I've heard Emilly say a 2.2 swap it too complicated. Maybe she wants to sell her engines?? So be it that they are the best in the business. The swap is plug and play if you follow the instructions given here. Speaking again for myself, as my OB has one.

that maybe the case BUT if there is anything wrong (a shift solenoid for the conv. lock up in the project I have now) PA emissions fails it - i.e. you must get the problem solved no matter how trivial it is before it will pass. Then if you do not have all the "readiness monitors" set you fail again (speaking PA here, your state may differ). Having only two chances before the big RED FLAG at the DMV is thrown - pish aw!! My OBD I Subes have no problems passing the sniff test. A silly solenoid in the trans - messy and convoluted repair - for what maybe 2 MPG when the car is used for city driving only?? Can't wait for OBD III, ---> don't let your car fart might throw a code you can't clear!!!

Like rllywagn says or use a die and put threads on the hollow shifter rod. You must use a SPDT switch. see switch def. for an explain. I used this method when I put the Hurst handle on my shifter. I also changed the lower pivot point and made a true "short shift" when I had it apart.

JimmyO, your answer is yes. I own four Legacys and they all do this. Maybe they all have the S contamination Nipper mentions. At "E" I can only add about 10 gallons.

The security/remote keyless entry module may be toast. First thing I would do, is disconnect the battery (be sure to have the keys in hand). Then reconnect it after about 1 min. Follow the instructions in your manual for reprograming the module in light of a battery disconnect. You may get lucky.

That is a kewl tool. Nipper runs one in his OB. I keep saying I'm gonna get meself one. I just graduated to OBD II I don't like it only from the below stand point. The PA emissions bit is no phun atoll.

I to have the well and poo poo tank Please believe me, well H20 is not the same as distilled.

Joygoat, This is close so I hope it helps. I recently bought an OB ( I did not get the remotes for it either.) I didn't know it had the security system - no light on the dash like my 2.5RS has. I found the box under the dash behind the driver's side kick panel. I had an extra remote for the RS - followed the programing instructions from the website and Wha lah - remote locks and flashing ect security system worked as intended. Now the reason for this post. I was not using the car as it needed some repair, => the battery died. Forgetting the key was in the ignition and the remote was on the key chain. I put my jump start box on the battery. click click flash flash - locked out w/ lights flashing Was at my home, a piece of Al flat stock and I was in in less than 5 min. Just a word of "look out/lock out" You can buy the remores on Ebay for like 10 bones. No doubt it has the Alpine system. Hope this link helps. Subaru Remote Systems

quote the Nipper "I don't know how often the injectors fire on OBDI subarus. It can be once per cycle, maybe 2 (Iv'e seen OBDI cars form other mfgs do weird things)" If coupled with the distance measurement it would be a simple matter of calibration. This calibration is needed for all the after market units I have seen/used.

For my remote read thermo, I mounted my remote probe inside the front of the drivers door jamb where the hinge protrudes into the inner fender. Back to the un-hijack My 03 VDC seens to take about 5 to 10 min to read true amibient temp. The GL-10 I had was faster. Old school??

An interesting thought I had would be to build a digital converter to show the pulse width of the injectors. Assuming it has constant fuel pressure (unlike our turbo models). The length of time the injector stayed open would/ could be converted to the fuel being used per time unit. Not MPG but MPH As for the units Nipper spoke of, the ones I have seen have two "flowmeters". One in the input line to the fuel rail and one in the return line. They subtract the measurements to obtain a fuel consumption figure. Then using magnets on the drive shaft and a reed switch for distance, they calculate MPG A similar setup up could be done with my pulse width monitor with no fuel line intrusion. The man for this project IMO would be Vikash (vgr3) over at Leg.org

To answer your main question: I work with extruded Aluminum tube at work. Both MIG and TIG. We have built many huge architectural signs out of it. (hospitals, mall entrance signs ect.) No problems. but We also have used it for trailers and ladder racks. It does stress crack when put in a torsional load situation. Esp. around the weld, due no doubt to the metallurgical change when heated to close to it's melting point. If I were to try this I would cut snug fitting internal squares out of 0.25 plate. Radius the corners and corner weld them into the tubes. As you know a cube is stronger than a tube. Hope this helps. Good luck, I would much rather work with alloy than steel.

and please spend the money for distilled H20

ref: K&W CRC block seal I tried it on an EJ22 with a very small HG leak (small bubbles in the overflow bottle after a drive) Followed the extensive directions to a T It does take two days to do. - Curing time for the sealant. Flush flush and flush again and again. (I plumbed a by pass for the heater core) Result: same bubbles - NSTEJ No Such Thing as an Easy Job Sorry just one lame man's experience.