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Thanks Porc, these leaking steel lines can be reached *seen by removing the driverside rear wheel. I do not know where the go except up. The rusted section is the end of the steel lines - far enough up as to not be reachable from below. 94 Legacy AWD wagon.

Soob, You have the classic case of a bad radiator, latin for it is radis-B-gonus The fins that connect the cooling tubes delaminate and cause the efficiency to fall dramatically. No flush will fix this. It occurs behind the fan shroud and is very hard to see unless the rad is removed. new double row is around 125 usd

Well long ago in a far away land the inner fender on my 94 Legacy wagon went south while me and the car stayed north. The result is the fuel lines coming from atop the fuel tank have rusted into yesterday. (The area is right inside, infront, of the rear drivers side wheel, you corn-fused as I am??) Fuel leaks are not only dangerous but costly!! Yep - drip drip drip go the pennies. Dumb question time: Is there an access plate somewhere under the rear carpet or seat or?? I do not want to drop the tank -rear diff bolts look as bad as the rest of the rust. If I can get my hands on the upper part of these steel lines I can cut them add rubber fuel injection lines to by pass the rusted sections. I would just go look but it is sooooo full of "stuff" if I knew where to look, I'd have a start. I'd hate to junk this girl for something so trivial.

Howdy MT If it has AC in may have a mechanical viscous clutch fan. If the coupling is going south while you stay north - it could come apart. The result could be it throwing itself into the rad. Bad juju this. If it's the electric fan - test by turning the ignition to ON (not start) while the winding down is happening, if it's the electric the noise will change. Dry bearing in the fan can cause an overload and burn out a fuse or the thermo switch.

I think Gloyale means '88 and on both my 87 turbos (one GL-10 one GL) are part time 4wd. LSD is rare on any of them.

Sorry Joe, no real easy answer. You have obviously tried unlocking the door with the key from the outside. To get the door panel off, you will need to remove the drivers chair. Four bolts and move it to the rear area. Screws in the arm rest, the lock plate and pop clips Lift up (window down) - whoop dar it is. Raise the window then unplug the switches and see what is not moving.

two items come to mind the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) This is for the ECU not the dash indicator. When one went south on one of my Leg T-wagons it did not light the CEL. The reading was there but the output from the CTS was weak - the ECU reacted in a similar manner (mine is an 4EAT though) These are around thirty (30) USD at any good parts house. The other is the IAC (Idle Control Valve) there may be some "gunk" built up and until it is warm (gunk turns to a less viscous material), it has problems regulating the air. Cleaning it may solve your problem - do not try to adjust it trust me on this one. Posts on both of these items can be found. Hope this helps. By chance do the cooling fans run at odd times?

I have one a wee bit worse in my daily driver 86 Brat - Sno Worries The key is stuck in and will not turn to the off position!! It will still turn to the start position. I hid a toggle switch up under the dash that turns the ignition on and off. Simple matter of opening the connection at the main pink plug. You could do this as a temp/permanent fix or as a antitheft measure.

If it is a Loyale or GL series?? The AC is controlled by a micro switch which is switched via a rod from the HIVAC system. This micro switch is found by looking behind the center console just above and behind where your foot rests when on the gas pedal. You will see a blue and a blue with black wire running to the switch. I have rewired all my micro switches to a switch on the dash letting me control when the AC is on. Bi-Level is nice. A rocker switch fits very well beside the blower speed control knob. I choose blue for obvious reasons. Hope this helps.

Be real Kewl knowing what you are working on?? If it's an early Subaru I might be able to point you in the direction you need to go.

Speakth John in Ky with a non-forked tongue "Old radiators more than anything is the one thing that will kill the turbo engine." Word!! Daeron spelled it out very well. I prefer the 87 and newer hot wire MAF models but.. Some like the vane type flapper door for their?? The head generation is also of some impotance (sic) Gen III being best -> Gen I - well reading will serve it's purpose. Good luck, in it's day the EA82T was well inwhat day?

Listen to the man Turbone. A cheap MBC can lead to trouble -large time. As for your questions "black valve looking thingy" It's called the waste gate duty solenoid. It is used by the ECU to raise boost pressure if it determines the need. It does this in the same way a MBC does it -> by controlling the pressure sent to the WG. Disconnecting it will cause a check engine light, but my guess is that it's on anyway or burnt out/removed. You are correct the pressure switch found near by turns on the boost light. With "a bunch of other modifications" You still have the stock downpipe and cat? This can cause back pressure to push the WG open. Rare but this car sounds rare => to medium. Does not sound "well done" at all. Get a divorced WG down pipe. And "problem was that maybe the BPV on my WRX intercooler" Yes this can cause the boost pressure to drop if faulty or plumbed incorrectly. No doubt trust a cheap MBC but find fault in a factory BPV?? I am wondering who built up this car. Couldn't be you, I mean black valve thingys and bunches of modifications - ah dah?? Please excuse the sarcasim but my morning java isn't working yet. I hope it stays fixed, -> we may see a headgasket thingy post next.

examine the MAF plug connection I have seen where some so called mechanics do not disconnect the MAF to change the air filter panel result can be the small wires connecting the MAF connector breaking at the connector.

wiper transmnission went toast I tied the middle of an extension cord to the arm around through driver's and pass windows and plugged it into itself. One hand did the wipen' other did the driven'.

MrDundee sir, You may want to read through this post. The newer Subaru engines

Thanks for the offer Josh, the car is on loan to my sister for a while. Will do on the legacy central post, good idea.

Thanks for the heads up, Glen I merged the threads and agree with your sugg.

is the coil backet with the amplifier transistor grounded?

You're welcome and thank you for the follow up. We need more people like you to follow up on suggs given, good or bad.

Well I went out to my EA82 manifold dept. Thought I'd find the part but... I guess I need to do some "riddin' up" Did find it and here are the measurements it is stamped steel about 0.11" in thickness

My 91 SS's 4EAT was rebuilt some time ago by the PO. Mileage 191k now Fluid is fresh and smells fine. It does this little dance upon upshifting warm. Shifts are fine no slippage. It just upshifts to third then about 2 seconds later it downshifts to second. (Seems like when the intake manifold goes positive i.e. boost starts, due to the load inpressed by third gear) Then back up to third - this is somewhat controlable if the throttle is regulated. I'm wondering if a NA valve body/TCU was used and it does not like seeing the ECU's mention of boost?

messing with the IAC is tricky One method would be to introduce a small filtered vacuum leak using a solenoid valve (the ECU may try to compensate though) I'd use an "idle up solenoid" from an EA81 that has AC Mount it as to hold the throttle open a little bit when your foot is not on the peddle. Or maybe if the car has AC, use your switch to disconnect the compressor's mag clutch and turn on the AC. Test this by unplugging the clutch and turning on the AC.

pry up one corner of the hood with a piece of softwood (pine ect) just enough to apply pressure. pull cable. If no luck try the other side.

If you installed it as I sugg. It would read zero (0) untill the MBC opens. If it reads boost pressure as you say it is installed incorrectly or is leaking all the time. The MBC is a pressure relief valve, holding back pressure untill the "relief" setting is reached. At this point it opens and allows the air to pass. (in this case to the Waste Gate) I think you may have a bleed style boost control corn-fused with a pressure relief valve that most MBCs are? The MBC goes inline between the WG and the manifold pressure. If you put a Tee in the line to the WG and connect your boost gauge to the line, it should read zero untill the MBC reaches the pressure you have it set for. Comp pressures are decieving, as long as they are balanced the gauge you use could be reading low, I don't think this is your current problem.

First and formost welcome to the good ship USMB I just got my first Subaru from my sister in law for free. Free is a good price to pay. It is a 93 Loyale 4dr front wheel drive with 3 speed auto, 154k. She's a pup, you have an EA82 engine with SPFI (Single Point Fuel Injection also known as throttle body injection) The oil pressure light is not on and the wire is just hanging from the front of the motor not hooked up. Look down the front of the engine or look up from down under, you will see the oil filter, on the assmembly the oil filter screws onto will be the oil pressure switch. Probably has a wire and connector or just a slip on type spade connector. How are the idiot lights wired in these cars I figured the light should be on constantly. The light gets battery voltage to one side from the ignition switch. The oil pressure switch (a normaly closed pressure switch) provides a ground for the lamp when the oil pressure is near zero PSI. It should be on any time the key is on and the engine is not running. This is an "idiot light", if it comes on while the car is in motion you are in trouble, many folk fit an aux. gauge using the pressure switch hole for the gauge adapter Also it is real underpowerd in second gear mid rpm, Is there a problem with the cats plugging up? With the miles you have it is unlikely but a possibility. They are underpowered when coupled with the "3AT" auto tranny. Try a can of Seafoam in the gas tank and give it a tune up of plugs and filters. You may be due for a timing belt. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks You are most welcome hope this helps some.