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You are most welcome Mike but in my reading of other posts -- it IS a major hemorrhoid. Good luck and maybe you could do a definitive description of the procedure - with pictures if possible.

Hi Mike, I advanced searched for "Dash Removal" as that is what is required. Here is a copy of Moosens' reply . Heater core replacement

I agree with Nipper on the CD manuals. An FSM for my 97 OB is expensive. (I find the older Subes FSMs but can't find a cheap one for a "newer" models) So I have the CD version and some .pdf files for the OB and the 2.5 RS My solution: From Craigslist I bought a cheap Samsung Laser printer ~ 60 bucks I then printed all the files and still have toner to spare. Now when I get a page or two "grease monkey'd" up, I print another. ;^)

Soo glad to read the Pretty One is going to be fine. THAT is what matters most.

Sorry Su but this is incorrect " The differentials would still be spinning... the motor still has to turn just as much crap" With the car in FWD and the axles removed the rear diff and back half of the center tranfer would not be spinning. Let's speculate .5 MPG increase X-country = ~3000 miles at 25 MPG = 120 gallons at 25.5 MPG = 117.6 gallons 2.5 gallon = ~ 625 pennies. Enough for a Big Rat and fries with a M snake for desert??

Corn-fusion here there is a major difference between an ignitor and an ignition amplifier People continue to use the term ignitor when they mean ignition amplifier. an ignitor is located in the distributor and sends it's signal TO (operative word here) the ignition system. an ignition amplifier (basicly a power transitor) is located on the coil bracket below the coil and RECEIVES a signal from the ECU, amplifies it and sends the amplified signal to the coil. The distributors with the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) internals have no ignitor , these include the 87+ hot wire MAF MPFI units and SPFI systems. The other Subes that do not have points and condensor have an ignitor. End of rant and end of saying this over and over and over and over.

this thead and the one below will be merged All about the new Suby Diesel

This may not help but the VSS#2 in my automatic 97 OB is not working due to a bad drive gear. It is stuck in AWD because of this problem. I thought it would be the opposite but?? I have the FWD fuse in to overt the problem. Have you noticed if it is in 4wd all of the time? We are talking torque bind or other symptoms? Might want try spinning the tires then put the FWD fuse in and give it a whirl.

quoteth the Nomad in the fifth post "The factory clock was incorporated into the radio. The 6 disc changer you have is not the original radio for a 98, so there may be no clock."

My statement may sound a bit obvious but There must be a Subaru dealer in Omaha For the price difference ~2 USD vs 1 USD why not get the correct lamp (wattage esp., that the autoparts may guess at even with the lamp in hand) Once you have the correct lamp it's base config should be obvious -no? Sorry for being logical, it is not normaly my nature.

as Nipper said but to continue VSS#1 is in the rear of the tranny so it could be a wiring issue - broken/ corroded conn. ect. VSS#2 is in the speedo head.

Thats the one Commuter was talking about no doubt see the "P123" on the cass. door.

use this to check the true ECU codes ECU codes aand reading (does the fuel pump run when the connectors are connected?)

Gloyale hits the main points 1) Pull all plugs - crank RPM should be on the order of 300 RPM 2) Prop the throttle at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) this prevents the intake manifold vacuum from offseting the pressure generated in the cyl. 3) Use a remote starter to prvent fuel being injected and any spark to be generated. Something like this (which can also be used if the ignition switch gives problems later in life), 4) count the pulses to achieve the highest reading. should only be four or five. 5) write down each reading, it's not so much the PSI but the balance ( + - 15%) 6) Wet test (bit of oil added) do little on boxer engines due to cyl config. Hope this helps

Opps Thanks Jon never saw it up close you are correct.

Danger danger! People really should get in the habit of giving us readers the courtesy of telling us the car and YEAR of the vehicle. In this case if it is a 1997 or later 2.2 it is interference and problems could result in turning things when they shouldn't be turned. TDC has no relevance in setting the timing belt timing BTW. Here is a good read and please I am trying to help not chastise you. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

I claim foul "1. Does it have an extra light in the middle of the grill?" Rabbits have no grill (it's a horn and not in the middle of it) and it is not an "extra light" it is the only light. Congrats and props to you, I have a Vespa and would trade it for a Rabbit anyday.

Hi David welcome aboard the good ship USMB. The problem you are having centers around the fact that there are two turbo engines One is the EA81T the other the EA82T Both 1.8 L in size. To complicate this matter you have what some consider a transision year. If your dist is up front on the pass side it is an EA81T ask for an 84 turbo as they all have your dist. If it is in the rear on the drivers side (more likely) it is an EA82T, ask for a cap from an 88 as they all have your dist. Hope this helps.

You mention changing the FI coolant thermosensor. Are you sure it was the fuel injection thermosensor or the the dash gauge temperature sender? One has a pig tail wire (the thermosensor) the other a spade plug on connector. For checking stored error codes. Try this link from this message board's repair manual seen athe the right side of this page as the "USRM" Your connectors are located under the hood by the driver's side hood hinge. The read out is a small LED on the ECU which under the steering colum. you must remove the plastic panel to see it. here is one link from our repair manual ECU Codes Try this one also Subaru trouble codes

I wasn't saying or didn't mean to imply you were wrong, I was mearly pointing out that there are other 6 CD changers configs that were factory Subaur units. Sorry if you took it that way.

I tend to answer and not warn speculate Pul the entire front timing covers off Reset the belt as per the End Wrench proceedure. As nipper says do not rotate ant cam/crank further. Careful with compressing the tensioner. if you need a LinK try this http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Crank it over and check comp pressure. If you have good comp pres, your good. if not Sorry see my above post. The board and I wish you the best tidings

And as a final thought. You seem to have a firm handle on doing this you way. I will humbly resign from this thread and allow you to your own/ and other devises. My best of luck to you and sorry i could not help.

I just went out and took the below picture. Hope it helps. As best as I could, I followed this line and it is the "return line" to the fuel tank and if restricted woulld affect all injectors making the FP abnormaly high. Please re read my earlier post and note the fuel injection pressure regulator thought. for your questions 1) maybe see above but pretains to all injectors 2) why didn't you just pull the plugs and see which where wet fouled (gas soaked) and which (as you ask) were lean and dry (pure white)??? 3) see number two 4) Leaks are never good but a lean condition would be present see number 2 again

Nipper says " Most of us do not have access to ethanol (Cheaply) to make our own mix" State stores in PA still sell Pharmco 190 proof But I wouln't want to dump it in my car's fuel tank.

are you aware the main fuse for the lights in question is not in the fuse box under the dash, but in the main fuse box under the hood? fuse #23 20 amp