Skip

check your radio display

I believe we have a semantics problem here. The "starter relay" is the relay shown in the above schematic. These draw on the order of 100 milliamps ((0.10 Amps) Subarus of this vinatge do not have a "starter relay". I believe you mean "starter solenoid" These draw on the order of 10 amps. You also speak of direct starter switches which would need to handle full starter amperage on the order of 100 amps. The holes in your bulkhead for the cables would be emormous. Why even run 10 AWG as the ignition switch wiring will easily handle the relay shown?

Well if you say "RPMs" you should also say "MPHs" same wrong - right? Math is simple: convert the MPH"s" to inches per minute or IPM"s" X Miles/hour * 1 mile/5280 ft * 1 foot/12 inches * 1 hour /60 min = Y inches/min (IPM"s") Find the height in inches of the tires on the rear = H The circumference of said tire is Pi ( use 22/7) times the height (diameter) Cir = H *Pi = H*22/7 Divide the IPM"s" by this circumference this yields the RPM"s" of the wheel Mutiply this by the axle ratio (4:11) - as the drive shaft spins in this case 4:11 revolutions for each revolution of the wheel. this will yield the drive shaft RPM Hope this helps.

If you please, you could read the folloowing very recent posts on this problem. Hope they help shed some light. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69552&highlight=idle+vibration http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70480&highlight=idle+vibration BTW I found these by doing a "Search" using "idle problem" in the New Gen forum

as daeron says The starter relay idea has been used on this board since I can remember (Yikes!!) Here is the wiring transcribed from a post I made in about the year 2000. It uses a standard aux lighting relay. Any autoparts store (even Wally World) have them. Or you could just butcher your dash and put a big button on it. Some of us have used a more subtle approach and mount a "never fail" button below the dash. Aux horn buttons work fine as they are made for higher current. Hope this helps.

Matt4 I agree with Manarius, it would run bad always, not just after a cold start/ wrm up if the valve timing were off. You sound like you know something about engines, remember the carb days ? If the choke sticks on, the engine will run fine cold then as it gets warmed up it will tend to "load up" and die from gas fouled sparking plugs. With this engine there is no choke as the fuel injection thermosensor tells the ECU the engine is warm and to adjust the air fuel mixture (like the choke slowly opening on a carbed car). Possibly the thermosensor is bad but not bad enought to trigger the engine check light. The ECU never adjusts the fuel mixture as it warms, it "loads up" (wet plug) and stumbles DW (Dead in the Water) Or Left field off the wall hit -- the fuel pressure regulator is KaPoot and the injectors are feeding way too much fuel all the time and when it gets warm too much fuel fouls the plugs

Washesaid, it's a EJ25 short block with EJ22 heads/intake manifold Increases the comp ratio to alittle over 10:1 Many many many posts here and abroad (NASIOC) on the "frankstein" engine. Hope this helps.

Eagle, you are welcome hope this helps. First please look at the very bottom of this page for the "Similar Threads" section and read some of those. Then have a look at this post if it's not there Burping the coolant system

Why would air in the cooling system make a 'gurgling' that sounds like it's coming from behind the center console? Because your heater core is back there and air moving through it with the coolant can cause odd noises. Another description of the sound would be to compare it to a loose, or rumbling exhaust, mixed with a gurgle This "rumble" may be loose heat shields on the exhaust. Crawl under and bang on the shields with a gloved fist.

Lots of us use Sea Foam for the fuel system their pent. oil is also real good Deep Creep

Sounds like it could be air in the coolant system Might wanna take it back to SIR for a "burp job". Or see all the threads on "burping"

wheel off lug nuts back on until the stud is level with the nut, this is for stud protection. With a real man's hammer hit the rotor where it is in contact with the hub (not the part the pads ride on) Use a "through the ball" strike! "Deep Creep" is the answer in pent. oils Might as well spray the WD perfume under your arms Hope this helps, good luck.

All good info from Indrid to add Does a EA82 engine have a timing belt? As Indrid says and it has two belts actually. As Indrid says about the distributor but also check the screw that holds the rotor. I tried to jump it and the car tries to start??? Check for spark, do you know how? If no spark check the ignition fuse. but i get nothing from the engine. ??? The starter and alternator make some noise but the engine doesn't turn at all.???????? Please rephase this.

thanks for the rest of the story. Broken clip shouldn't cause this unless tab of throw out bearing is jammed between fork and pressure plate fingers! or it allowed the release fork to slip off the pivot point good luck

Try this put the car in 1st gear and then start the engine with the pedal depressed does the car lurch forward? has it been sitting and somehow the clutch disc is frozen to the flywheel?

Have you checked the tranny fluid level, dry syncros not allowing gear engagement? There have been reports of throw out bearing clips breaking, don't know if that would cause no dis-engagement.

do you have the cable adjusted so the clutch pedal has about 1/2 inch of free play?

Uby, the EJ's ECU needs an 02 sensor to control the A/F and I didn't see you mention one thats all. If you go with an OBD I unit, just one 02 will do and placed properly the ECU will not complain. If it happens to be an OBD II (like mine) then there are two 02 sensors and the second one checks the cat condition and the job the ECU is doing. I don't think the ECU would be happy with no cat to check the condition of. My EJ23.5 twin port, has Borla headers (not the best but...) I plan on a three way, single in, dual out - hiflow cat, back to twin tip resonators at the rear bumper. I may need more noise control though. Any $$ is way tight here to, but I need to pass PA IM OBD II inspection.

Uberoo, your ECU (and our granchildens' environment) will not be happy campers. With the advent of twin in/ twin out high flow cats (less than 100 clams) why not let one be your extraction balance point? Answer?

I'll guess we are talking about a quad light car? Check the low beam filament in the one that does not stay on. Swap it with the other low beam and see if the problem follows the lamp.

Hey New Ken, how you doin'? New Alex here, just over the hill and dale! The EJ25 in your OB has the tubes you speak of on the spark plug wires. Pulling the "cam" covers is not very hard. I have mine off my 97 OB's engine right now and will shoot you some pictures if you like. Click on my name and send me an email if you want. Make sure you get the small 0-ring like washers for the hold down bolts when you get the new gaskets. Good luck and nice havin' some more P-burghers on the board

Lets play "the what car is it? " game. If it's the Z28??? If it's an EJ25 might be the oil separator plate. If it's a bad or non-OEM PCV valve ?? if it"s=-> ah fergetabout it Sorry haven't taken my meds yet today.

The EJ22Ts are getting to be hen's dentures more and more. Might look into the hybrid EJ25/22 (kind of a EJ23.5 if you will) And this line Jibs speaks "I was also thinking of getting a cam from delta cams." For this to work you might want to get two cams or four if you do the DOHC EJ25. Good luck I am in the middle of an EJ23.5 myself.

Where is the "oil pump", on the engine? Sits alone? Part of the oil tank? Please PM or email me, I need more info. I do want to help.

Chip, The dry sump sysytem is a relative unknown here. We for the most part are guessing. Could the bypass passage from the oil pump pressure regulator be blocked somehow? I would like to know what brand name the system is and who plumbed it? Maybe a description of the system, as I have a custom install that may require this. BTW I run 20w/ 50 in all my Subarus (about a dozen) but my VDC H6 I have never blown a seal.when the PVC system was functional. Sounds like you have covered that base. A Porsche board may be a better solution.