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The hose you question is connected after the IC in my set up. As I retain the factory intake plenum. Which is what I believe you call a "cooler". Cleaning the connections is always a "first place to start". Garygoss has soldered the wires on his to the tangs. Good luck, it is not an easy 5 min. job as it is burried. If the factory boot is torn it will allow the watter to sit in the well and well you know the result. If the factory connector is still clipped on, I use two pieces of wire to hold the spring clip so the connector can be removed. Shown here on the AAV - (Aux Air Valve) that is also in question here.

Sir Mentis, you are most welcome and are correct but also not so correct. The dash gauge "thermometer" is not the same as the thermosensor. The thermometer is located up front has a single spade connection. As for CTS access, sorry that is a bare manifold I used so one could see it. It is very hard to reach and one must becareful of the ceramic knock sensor located close by. At least you don't have my problem reaching it - I hope My EA82T

the idle problem could be related to corrosion on the FI CTS connector. (Fuel Injection Coolant Thermosensor) It is possible the ECU does not know the temp of the engine. The IAC (Idle Air Control) is mounted on the goose neck (upper rad hose connection). It therefore gets a signal from the ECU and is warmed by the coolant. If the ECU is not feeding it the proper signal due to the corroded contacts on the CTS. The two could be working as adversaries rather than in compliment. The CTS is buried back on the lower run of the intake manifold, pass side. Shown here with the corrosion in evidence. Hope this helps.

The biggest problem I see is the VSS#2 output. The CC uses this Vehicle Speed Sensor. the one in the 96 is in the speedometer head run via the speed-0 cable. The 98 uses an electronic hall effect unit mounted directly on the bellhousing. (i.e no speed-0 cable) The outputs may be similar but where you pick it up may be different.

1) get the fluid changed via a flush sounds like the hyd. pump is not making the trip. 2) maybe add some Lucas Tranny honey in hopes of swelling the seals. 3) clean the govenor (see my art. in the USRM) it could be stuck in one of the higher gears. Does the fluid smell like gear oil? These transaxles, at this age, have a habit of loosing the seal between the diff and the tranny. fluids mixing => bad Ju Ju

Sorry Dan, as far as I know there was not an EA81 imported to the US in 1989 Your "hatch" must be something special or it is what some of us call a "3 door Coupe". I am assuming you mean the ingniter in the distributor? If it is an EA81? If it is an EA82, it has no igniter as in that year they all had CAS (Crank Angle Senors) Please answer this question. l l V Is the distributor up front on the engine or back below the master cyl?

I guess we have to guess this is for a 97 OB? Some of us own more than one Roo. List one, post about another. As for you question I have not found a way to turn off my ABS warning light on my 97 OB. (I know I am missing a wheel sensor) Being a safety issue I believe FHI makes it this way. If you want it off I sugg you pull the dash panel. (very easy) and remove the lamp. You are correct about inspection, at least here in PA, it is supposed to fail if the ABS warning light is on.

I must ask if you did any testing or just go looking ? They are very hard to see, dim light is not the answer here Dave. The ECU is in the way and a mess of wiring. My feeble old mind and body find it much EZ'r to prove it is the trouble before looking for more. Should you inadvertently knacker another connector loose in your search - then come to find a nest of mice jammed the blower motor. Sir you will not be the first to have this happen. Good luck and use a good light. You will need both, as I doubt this helps, sorry but I tried. Forum Note: Unsubscribing to this post.

G - that's way kewl, thanks, I sure hope it ain't "skunk". Ya know the way an open RR if let get warm turns real FAST. I have had some unopened go through cold/warm/cold and turn on me. Shame RR had to go "commercial". Thanks again for the thought.

Sounds to me like half the diode bridge is out in the alt rectifier They do this quite often. Replace the diodes or easier path replace the alt. I include this mearly as a qualifier as I have done a few of these.

Fred you must have a turbo or manaul tranny or thinking of a different VSS. Possibly #1 as this shows #2 being reached from topside. my finger is pointing at the manual tranny location (note: the VSS#2 has already been removed in this photo)

Mr. Biggman, Would you please so kind as to edit your post and put in a few strokes of the "enter" key. I tried three times to read the entire post and got lost every time. I see you are new here and would like to help but my old tired eyes are having a tuff time. Your ECU is under the dash - remove the panel that is above your knees when driving to see it. If it is an auto tranny the first brain box you will see is the TCU The engine ECU is to the outboard side. Please do not misconstrued my first comments I am trying to help.

Hi Chip welcome to the good ship USMB Here is a must have/read download. Entertaining yet informative. mentioned quite frequently as HTKYSA. http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf Hope you enjoy the book and your stay.

Sand worms aside. Tarmac, you are young and new here. Please understand we are here to help you - help yourself. The tranny you now have is a 3AT Three speed Automatic Transmission It shifts by means of roatating parts/vacuum read no electronics. The tranny you want 4EAT AWD is 4 speed Electronic Transmission All funtions are controlled by a TCU. Transmission Control Unit - read electronics. To install this tranny in your car aside from the size difference, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) must be swapped and the entire wiring harness for the tranny must be installed. The BIG question you need to answer is are you one with your DMM? and Do the words pinout and schematic mean good things to you? An easier and more fun in the end swap would be the manual FT4wd tranny from an RX of your vintage. A true ten (10) speed with AWD and a center diff lock. Grab the rear diff for some LSD action and ZOOOO000ooommmm!

Your green colored single wire "test mode" connectors are plugged together. Look under the hood at the driver's side hood hinge. These should be in this area. Along with a white pair of connectors. Plugging either set together is for testing only they should NOT be left connected when driving. The ECU located under the st. coluum (you must remove the panel above you knees when driving to see it) has the 02 monitor light - this light also flashes the codes and is what you are seeing. Here is an ECU code reading instruction sheet The ECU will flash stored codes with the white ones plugged. (above art. says the are black but the SPFI system has white conns) The green ones get plugged when you set the timing as it locks the timing at staic (the ecu adjusts the timing as you drive so it must be "locked" to set the intial timing) As for the no start, do you hear the fuel pump running when these "clicks" occur? It should be a "wirring" noise from under the rear. Have you checked for spark from the coil wire? IF yes and the answer is yes, then Check the screw that holds the rotor to the distributor shaft. Check for a slipped or broken driver's side belt by watching the oil pressure gauge(light) while cranking - if it goes up (out) the belt is not broken but could have slipped a few teeth -backfiring will result and it may start and run poorly. The doubt the square relay you found is a factory relay - the round one is. I doubt this is your problem. By pulling the fuse you shut down the system.

In 1987 the "RX" designation goes a little bit above "trim level" as it had different struts """" springs "" anti sway bars """" transaxle (ie it was the only true shift on the fly 10 speed sold at the time) "" tranfer case "" body kit """ interior (Fnt seats) Plus all had LSD rear diff and the EA82T. All told I guess you could say "trim level".

make sure they didn't sell you an oil pressure switch and not the "sender unit" Easy way to tell is if the gauge goes to full peg when turning the ignition on and not starting the car.

Props on the math msteel but the pots I was talking were all 10 watt pots. I guess in the world of Einsteinian reality the statement "Everything is relative" rings loud. To me, 4 watts is very small - to a PC board builder it is not so true. BTW P also can be found directly => as E ^2 / R

You say the temp gauge is normal. In your climate, the only way the temp gauge will get to normal is if the T-stat is working. therefore. You should have heat. sounds like you might have air trapped in the heater core

Pull the panel off that is above your knees when driving Look up and find the gold/silver box -- the ECU small round "window" is the LED for the 02 monitor this is where the codes are read. follow these instructions for reading a stored code. ECU Codes from the USRM Hope this helps.

Good below freezer temp Bat man!! -39 C = -38.6 F -40 C = -40 F for those who wonder what temp C = the same temp F I know a lot of things that would shrink at that temp. You talkin' wind chill or like real ambient seen on a thermometer? Good luck as you need heat. There is a small hose in the center of the intake that can be used for bleeding if you don't get all the air out. If there is a service garage near by you might want the rad "sniffed" for hydro carbons. One way to "see" a HG problem. With the question of air in the system sometimes seeing bubbles in the overflow isn't a for sure.

+1 91Leg the gallery has some good info we are getting some hot skinny common rail and varriable vane turbo charger

Oln, I was not woofin' on him for posting this. I was only helping him as he does ask "does anyone know any details on this new engine"

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Sorry Scheel and not to put down NVex The "brains" in these cars are not smart enough to do the type of testing to prove a valve just needs cleaned. (although I bet it does need cleaned with the method NVex describes). The brain only looks at the resistance of said devise. I would check the wiring and the resistance of the IAC. The starter switch code may be related to an engine stall. This has been known to set false codes -- sometimes known as "ghost codes".