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Juspa, although I agree with Mike I have had good luck with changing the sender unit. Also in your climate I would give Castrol 20w/50 a try.

Jim, You are most welcome. As we all have said "here's good on ya" Gary, I don't doubt your welding skills, I to have a small MIG set up and a larger one. (a.k.a. wire feed) Even with the small setup, getting your hood (so you can see) and torch into a position where a proper weld could be made without thread gauling splatter would be a job for someone with a lot of experience. A TIG set up may be a better. The right angle reversable drill and left handed bits and taps Would be my choice. The chart for selecting the proper drill size for a tap in most cases is set up for 75% thread depth. In a case like this where breaking a tap would result in dire consequences I would go about 0.020" bigger. If you choose the left handed tap/bolt method. Do not run the tap through the remaining broken bolt. As OB99w says the taps are tapered (if it's a gun tap not a bottom tap). This will result in the left handed bolt locking in the remains and giving you purchase to back out the broken piece. Please use a sulfur based cutting oil. This is sold in most plumbing dept. as it is used for threading steel pipe (as in gas lines).

My question here is Why did the FHI engineers only allow 0.385" of crank shaft (0.22" of key) stick out into the bore of the pulley (the deapth of the hub is 0.55") This damper weighs in excess of three lbs and turns the AC comp, PS pump and the alt. A bit of torque is required to turn these units. IMHO Welding in that small hole will make keeping the weld "splatter" from welding the broken bolt to the crank very difficult. As Jim says it's broken off in the hole. My MIG torch tip will cover the entire hole allowing no vision of the weld puddle. This is out of the car, even with the rad removed, getting in there in the car would be a challenge. BTW I did thread the longer bolt into the EJ22T crank with out the pulley - it did not bottom out before the bolt shoulder hit the crank. EJ25 pictured as it is on the stand, EJ22T is the same .

I don't know where to post this so I'll start here and move it if ness. Here's the story as I've heard it. A local guy has an Impreza that was wrecked by his son, now that a new one -huh? Early ninties 1.8L 5 speed. The firemen on scene got over jealous and cut the roof off the car to get him out?? My buddy who has seen the car, says there is very minor damage and can't figure why they cut the roof off. He thinks they wanted the practice????? They are willing to let the car go for scrap price -lets say a 100 greenbacks or so. Soooo do I snag this creature and turn it into a summer only Topless Imp (with roll bar to complete the body structure) or pass it on to ya'll?? Like I need another project - > "the Captian" will hide the life preserver and throw me overboard. I can get some pictures if there is genuine interest. Located near Pittsburgh, PA Should I move this to the Retrofit forum or For Sale or...???

As far as any of my newer Subes are concerned (94 - 2003) They all loose their setting when the speed drops below about 25 MPH. Hope this helps

Sorry Kilroy I do not know the answer. A 91 Turbo may have a bigger bar. I currently have a 93 T-wagon I could measure for you if you like. You are aware 5mm = 0.19" is not that much. Like l--l actualy that distance. If you used the tire diameter calculator to find the right aspect ratio for the series (50,55,60 ect) You would be doing some hard cornering to make it hit. The inner lips of the fenders can be rolled easily that amount.

a vacuum gauge can be very helpful here. The back pressure kills the intake manifold vacuum. The result -> less air intake, less bang, less power.

As I recently became a member of "The hot dam crank pulley bolt" club I thought I throw a couple pennies and a pict in the pot. Here is a picture of the old and the newer pullies and the tale of two crank bolts, why two? Look close the one is 0.32" longer than the one that came loose. The longer one is from an EJ25, the shorter from the engine in question an EJ22T. The bolt in mine came loose and well we all know the result. I believe I am going for the Rallitech twin dowl rod/pin solution. The dia. of the bolt shank is 0.472" (12mm) No class marks on the heads but the longer bolt has a "H" cast into it. I say get a left handed tap (MSC.com has them.) and a left handed bolt. Using a right hand tap could just drive the fastener deeper into the crank. I also like the step drill op. with a left handed bit. Hope this adds some fuel to the fire.

Congrat to you and props to them. Those gents do some serious nice work!!!

nice shots, and thanks for the update I need to repl. the VSS #2 nylon drive gear in my 97 OB 4EAT Did you have any trouble getting it out?

Ed thanks for the mention but I can not take credit for that excellent article. And I agree about the USRM addition.

Nice job. Thanks for the offer!! You might want to mention that it's KPH on the speedometer. (1 KPH = 0.62 MPH)

Jim, The torque value you found is wrong. The value has been updated by Subaru to 125 lb-ft I have a Legacy turbo EJ22T with the same problem. I'm betting there are a lot of people that used that torque value and down the road guys like us are paying the piper. Please read this post where I was corrected. Hope this helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70943&highlight=crank+pulley

First, did you change the distributor? As far as I know, a 78 EA71 (non Cali) comes with a points and condenser ignition.. read - no electronic pick up Next high electrical current does not cause heat per say, resistance does. I have 5 Brats at this time and all show signs of this heating to some degree. The problem is manifest in the connector to the ignition switch. It builds resistance due to corrosion, this resistance in turn causes the heat. I have had one connector melt to the point on needing by passed. Poke yer head under there and look at the main connector for the ignition (some are pick some are white, all have large diameter wires going in and out.) Does it show signs of overheating?

Hi Connie, Something no one has mentioned but alluded to, that has happened to several of my EA82s. This may be related. The T belt for the drivers side wanted it's tension adjusted. (did you know they can to be re-tensioned? Without removing the covers? There are holes with plugs in the covers - I take the covers off for this op though) The resulting slop allowed the distributor drive shaft to make a strange noise. (it's driven off the rear of the driver's side cam) I thought it was deep internal as the vibration was transmitted through the cam tower into ??? Here is hoping for a loose timing belt.

I saw no mention of the fact that not only your belt needs changed but the dreaded idler pulleys and tensioner (if leaking)

Tim in the USRM linked to at the top of this page you may find some other info that helps Here is the code chart for your car from the manual You will see the EGR code -> which means the windings on the ERG solenoid are open - very very very common problem. Many of us have substituted a Honda or Toyota solenoid for the defective part. -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit

Very well Done, thanks and thanks to Daeron for the sugg.

Well done Singlecoil, thanks for the photo, write up, and link. The car year you are working on (86?) may help. Gloyale may get some pictures of the 87 and newer cars as the location may have changed?

For those 'Trisity types Here is the skinny

Guess I have to rewrite the original post. :^( Please note: Power is fed to the blower motor from the relay. The ground side of the motor is fed through these resistors via the blower speed switch. The relay providing power is another matter. This item (the relay pictured) is located above the ECU. The ECU is above the driver's left knee when in the driving position. The lower panel must be removed to gain access to this location.

My man, you far too young to remember "What's my line". Try putting "Indians" and or "B'alam" after Maya.

Or it could also be technically said " This problem is for those that still have at least high speed (as it by-passes the resistor block)."

Nope, guess I was wrong "One down nine to go --> Miss Kilgalen" That's one NO one will unserstand, me bets

find a bolt they will screw onto or a wheel stud cut the head/shoulder off and chuck the stud in your 1/2 cordless drill, screw on acorn. Polishing/rubbing compund on a wet cloth. run drill ---> done --> reverse drill to remove - next acorn works for me