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Correct, and then have the kid do this Double oil filter gasket post

goto Prelude Forum and ask this question. See what they say to ya.

Fast Idle Control Devise used on cars with AC. It bumps up the idle to off set comp. drain.

http://www.xt6.net/ you're welcome

You sound like you will do as you like, and are prepared. Please use the http://www.xt6.net/ site for more information directly assoc. with your car. .

Revee is spot on. Can you spell I'd like a new AWD unit please. Many many many posts/threads on this fact. Your owner's manual (which I doubt you have/read) points this out. Sorry, this statement is wrong/ very wrong. " i dont think that much of a difference would hurt." Have you visited http://www.xt6.net/ Please go to that site and post the above statement. Get the real skinny from the guys that know these cars. I think you will be right at home there and find many answers straight away. Lots of guys from here are also there. Good luck - I loved my XT6 - super drivin' car.

Revee is almost correct. "It is not a good idea to tow a Subaru AWD with any wheels on the ground." Manual trannyed Subes can be towed with all four down. Evidenced by my 2.5 RS - 5 speed AWD, being towed as a dingy behind my motorcoach for the last four years ~ 6000 mi. No problems. As for the orig. questiom. I would want to check my brake pads - you have the power to pull it, -> proper use of the clutch is critical but you also have to slow down twice the design weight.

Dave, wattage in this case is very small. cost about 3~ 4 dollars, resistors only cost pennies => therefore you are correct pots are spendy. rheostat is a high wattage pot, this is not called for here but they are about the same cost - read expensive. You have the resistors mix and match and maybe you will find the right resistance. I like keeping my systems intact and use a Honda vesion of the valve in many of my cars.

Hoosie, why not grab a 0-100 ohm pot and dial it in??

I own two Legacy T-wagons and a SS (turbo sedan - aka Sports Sedan) One has around 250 kmi no problems (I trust it so much it's on loan to my sister at this time) the other T wagon has around 200kmi.. same both have had their trannies replaced as the only major issue. I also own a Legacy GT wagon with close to 225 kmi. (Was driven by a postwoman for a long time - talk about taken a beatin'!!) BTW I live just outside of P-burgh in Latrobe. PM me for more details if you like.

"Now I'm off to get some booze for the honkey game tonight" Whoo dem honkeys playin'??

Do check all bat cable connections. Unplug the small spade connector on the starter, put a test light on the wire, ground the other wire from the test light and see if the light lights when the key is turned. might want to pull the spark plugs out and try turning it by hand. Coolant seaped into cyl from bad HG caused hydro lock. knocking sound => not good rods have been known to go into wierd places ask Nipper

So you left the magic smoke out did ya The Prince of Darkness (Lucas of British car fame) once said that all things electric work because there is smoke in them. When this smoke gets out ... => they quit working. Some things have more smoke than others. Like a starter - lots of smoke in it. Foolishness aside. First: Most remote lock units I have dealt with require a relay to handle the current needed. Second: The lock / unlock wires should each go to separate relays. And not be connected as you say. Third: All actuators I have seen/used have three (3) wires (Subarus not corvairs) one to lock the lock when positive battery voltage is applied one to unlock " ..........." one for ground or neg. bat voltage Sorry but it sounds like you may have over loaded the unit or wired it incorrectly and this... "let the smoke out" .

PM one of our good mates frow down under. They drive on the "correct" side of the road, their cars come with the passenger (our driver) side power lock. Maybe they know where theirs is mounted.

Just a thought How hard was it to get the pads out of the caliper bracket? I lost a rear pad prematurly as rust built up between the SS clip and the bracket. The pad dragged and wheel was hot. Have you seen the notice about new pads being oversized? The pad's tab that goes into this slot is to large? I don't buy into the wheel bearing, if it were bad enough to make it smell like you said. I think you would have felt it in your test.

As an old fart that runs a vac gauge in most of my rides or in my turbos a vac/boost gauge. I see no way it will help diagnose a rod knock?? which, aside from tangents, was the original question. Maybe a ticking HLA woulds show up?? but a rod knock?? My lame suggestion is a mechanics stethoscope

"You wont have hydraulic lock (that would be too easy, as the starter motor cant bend anything)." ????? Hydraulic lock does NOT have to "bend" something to happen. As I said this could happen while sitting. Engine not running. Oil seeps past the rings. The piston will simply not reach TDC and the engine will stop cranking - possibly overheating the windings in the starter motor.

Gloyale may have your answer but before tearing into the dash to find this relay. I would test the blower motor when it is non-functional. It could be bad brushes as it is just a DC motor. Try "Foonzie-ian" it e.g. When it is in a non operating state - turn it to high speed (#4) and tap on the motor (under the glove box). If the motors starts, replace the blower motor. OR You could obtain a cig lighter adapter with cord. The motor has two wires running into it, one blue the other green/white. Connect the wires from the cig lighter cord (ig. key must be in the run position) to the wires to the motor. Polarity is not important as this is just a test. If the motor runs then do as Gloyale says, pull the dash panel that is above your knees when driving. Lie on your back or use a mirror to look up above and beside the st. col. Four relays in tandum. Relays are round canisters about the dia. of a quarter and about 1" in height. relay wire colors blue/red red/yellow red/white green/white note fuses # 1,2, and 12 are used to control the relay/blower Good luck, Hope this helps.

"Either they replaced it because it quit working? Or they modded it so the lights couldn't turn on with the keys." Why have you not checked it against your other Legacy? As you say you have two, wiring issues aside, does it do this? I'm corn-fused as usual.

x 2 too much would be about 9 total quarts. It would probably hydro-lock as the oil seaped by the rings while sitting. BTW Early Foresters had a recall for a burning oil/grease smell. The DOJ connection to the transaxle leaked due to having the wrong viscosity oil, have you looked for this problem? Mine dripped down onto the exhaust and made this smell. Look for stains where the front axle enters the transmission.

1) Did you use any RTV or other silicone sealant? 2) How did you hold the "mickey mouse" gasket in place? 1) - if so some could have plugged up a passage 2) - it may have slipped and the pump is now sucking air

did you bother to check the fuse that controls this system?

Mike there are other items to check first 1) having an OEM 193 deg T-stat 2) the blend door for the heater is opening the entire distance of it's travel 3) as Daeron suggs

Take a look at your tires. Are they all the same size? all worn to the same depth? all inflated to the same pressure? Any of these not being answered in the affirmative can cause the 4WD to stick in 4WD. Also check fuse #10 (since you do not grace us with the type of transmission I am quoting for an automatic) This fuse operates the solenoids which switch the 4wd in and out. Fuse #12 lights the light on the dash. Hope this helps.

Only a WAG Can you try the MAF from the 2.2? Is it possible the ECU ignores certain parameters when at WOT winding it out ? Like the MAF signal.