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My VSS#2 drive gear (the one inside the front diff) is toast. CEL is on as a result and I need the car inspected. Will not pass OBD2 inspection with the CEL on. I'm an old dumb fart and it's too cold to yank the lump / tranny. Thanks for a link from Tech1967 I saw this http://www.vanbran.com/bug/images/conversion9/vss_pickup3_l.jpg It is a reed switch mounted simply on a strip of metal. The reed switch will be triggered by a ring of magnets fastened around the DOJ http://www.vanbran.com/bug/images/conversion9/vss_magnets1_l.jpg I'll add subtract magnets to get the speedometer about correct. Leaving the FWD fuse in prevents the AWD engagement. This should fool the ECU into thinking it has a VSS input - eh? What a Rube Golberg?? Flame retardant undies in place.

Yari, Yes you can jump the starter solenoid. It is on the starter and requires positive 12v battery voltage. Your battery will work. Make sure gear selector it is in the "park" position. Turn the ignition to the "run" position and connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the small spade connector shown below. I tried to get a picture of where the starter is located but my bonnet is frozen tight. Follow the fat positive cable. Hope this helps.

still maybe read about it here http://www.autoblog.com/2006/09/30/subarus-diesel-boxer/ http://www.webwombat.com.au/motoring/news_reports/subaru-diesel-engine.htm

WA - okay lets throw 700 + $ at the problem and hope it goes away? If a 02 sensor is the culprit who is the looser? Not you!! I like following -- test the outputs - then replace -- type advise. Do as you like, but these type statements get under my feathers. One should not state what they think is true -- when it may not be fact. Sorry for being abusive.

loosen all the lugnuts ~1 full turn, drive check drive .... have him take the tire tool with him. when he sees it is free tighten the lugs (~ 75 lb/ft) and come home no heat needed, lots can go wrong if applied incorrectly just an attempt at saving more grief.

Please see ECU code reading and chart Your car is listed.

Disco The speedometer not working will trigger an error code and light the CEL. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS#2) is what generates the pulses the speedo and the engine control unit (ECU) use. A write up on it can be seen here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65752 There have been other instances where the trouble is in the gauge cluster (speedometer head unit). If you feel dealings of this nature are out of your realem please ask more questions.

You are welcome. I hail from the other side of the state near P-burgh, about 50 clicks east of the "big"? city Latrobe is closest town of note (Arnie Palmer, ex-Rolling Rock Beer).

Mr. Deep, Please excuse bgd his intellect is so high he believes he can communicate with you on a ethereal plane. He is referring to minerals found in tap water that may be coming out of solution. Someone may have changed the coolant and used tap water as the mix agent. It is recommended practice to only use distilled water for the reason. A drain, back flush, and refill may be in order. His other reference to block sealer well... I guess the flakes could plug holes but.. concentrate real hard maybe he will communicate with you.

Huck, here is another off the wall try. I think the brake light switch may be the culprit. Connector B64 Try engaging the cruise with the brake pedal depressed slightly.

Gloyal, you want a DPDT switch. (Double Pole Double Throw) with no center off. Bottom of the switch wiring looks like this Light will be on when there is no connection to DSC. BTW DSC is in control of the DRAIN spool valve for the rear drive hyd pres. clutch pack. If this drain is closed (i.e. DSC getting no power), the drain is closed and all hyd pressure is put on the clutch pack thus engaging it. Hope this helps. Thanks to Nipper for the link and correction.

The old USRM is still at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm try it as it has another art. on the instal

See if this helps Weber install Thanks to McBrat for that

Sir Goat, You speak of the "vapor separator" it does have a filter in it. I have seen it mounted with the two hose end on top and inverted with the two hose end on the bottom. Due to the fact that it is called a "vapor separator" maybe you have the "vapor" hose pointing to the carb? I am going to doubt this is the problem as it would truly be "running on vapors" but could be something to look at.

Where's Bushbasher?

sorry Numb no switch just two solenoids side by side. Should make it a piece of cake to add the three way valve or the line connect as you do. But the orig. post asks "I heard installing a lever is possible, but what about without one? I wanted to know if there is a manual way to engage the 4WD." Can't get more manual than ropes,lol.

Here's a good read Getting rusted wheel off

U right Numb but if he has to find the vac line with constant vac. find a suitable vacuum line connector dig the vac lines out of the mess of vac lines going to the diaph. do the plug and test - hope he has the right line that goes to the diaph. and not some vent line. do the plug into the other and re test (see above) Why not just splice the wires or leave the ropes run under the car tied to the bumper?? This is getting comical, he now has the solution in several forms, I'll let him be the judge.

Yukria, Yes it would be wise to shoot Imdew a PM (Private Message) Possibly link him to this post and ask his opinion. Here is a link to his profile. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=70106 The best year for the swap looks to be a 95 automatic. EGR and exhaust port config being the issue. Mine went in real easy, only swap I had to do was the flexplate for the automatic. Good luck in the hunt, they should be pretty abundant.

Yukria, Yes the swap has been done by many here. My 87 OB has an EJ22 at this time. I changed nothing but the engine read - all electronics were plug and play. I do not know what Jon refers to, maybe he will grace us with some details? The year of the EJ22 donor is a concern. I will search for some posts on this subject. contact screne name Imdew he has done many of these swaps and is very helpful. lot of reading http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52845&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24708&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67543&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68341&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68047&highlight=EJ22+swap

XOOMER is the winner!! 81 Wagon 144 Pictures required for grand prize award.

Yukira, I don't know how much the financial end of this means to your family. The cost of the the CCR (best in the business most agree) engine/shipping/replacement for a vehicle that is basiclly nine years old, is going to be substantial => guess ~ 3-4000 USD. In your area many people have switched from the EJ25 to the EJ22 - these are available far cheaper than the rebuilt EJ25 and as many have attested to just as reliable if not more so. Just want you to be advised of your options. One question - who changed the oil last?

agreed but no trial and error with ropes pull one or pull the other - how do you get any more simple?

Gloyale is correct but.. as stated the vacuum diaphragm is a two sided affair. He would have to put vacuum on the opposite side to disengage. Your "plug and play" method would be close to a "full setup" which he says he wants to avoid. Tie a couple ropes on seems more up his alley??

then simply pull the vac diaphragm and put a rope on the cable then another rope on the back side of the lever pull the rope from the front of the car or pull the one out the rear.. or splice your wiring and make sure vacuum is getting to the solenoids try the front tires on the rear and see if the shimmy/clunk changes. DOJ's can also make this noise. Torn CV boot, may I politely ask why you didn't change it when the BJ was replaced?