North Ursalia

MilesFox, that's how I got it running the one time it started since it was towed. That's when I pulled the key out/put it back in and it died. That hasn't worked since, though I only tried one more time that day.

I *knew* I'd get good leads and a quick reply here- thank you! If anyone has any other ideas, feel free to post them... I'm not afraid to rip into thing to get this thing running. I took the dash apart tonight to clean the mouse nest out of the HVAC system after all !

I have two 'real life' photos of that same cap: Not too bad on there IMHO.

My Brat still will not start. I don't quite have the old ignition switch out, but I got the dash apart enough to pull the connectors off the old switch and plug the new one in- still no go. For exposition, it ran fine and I got it home from CT about 2 months ago. I did a tuneup on it (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filters, drive belts) and it ran/started. Changed out the radiator, fan thermoswitch, tstat, hoses and gasket, and it was hard to start then (I wanted to run it and make sure the fans kicked on) but it did start and ran fine. Next day, I headed to my friend's house for a garage day, and it died 1/2 way there. The gas gauge is dead, and I thought I ran out. Put a gallon in it to get to a station, and I got maybe 1/2 mile further and it died and stayed dead. Since then, I have given it a new battery, new battery terminals/cables, new grounds, new coil, and a new alternator (yeah, I've been good to it) just because I had them and it wouldn't run. The one time I got it to start (we hotwired it basically) it started and ran okay, and I went to shut it off when the key came out instead (the ignition lock was very broken). When I put the key back in, it IMMEDIATELY died, which led me to believe it was the electrical portion of the igniton lock. That gets us to today and the still not running Brat with a brand new ignition lock. The coil is getting power, but there is no spark from it (crude paperclip test of the coil). There is an assortment of very small wires (I want to say two or three) running back to the distributor and to the + and - sides of the coil that I know essentially nothing about I must admit. Am I up Shiz's Creek without a paddle, and there is some form of igntion control module in the distributor? I can't for the life of me think why this damn thing isn't sparking up. I know it's getting fuel BTW- I can hear the pump start (and stop) and I can smell the gas in the bowl. Any help would be MOST appreciated!

If you find another Gen 2 low rollbar, I'll sell children into slavery to get it from you if I have to !

I can look up anything you want, just shoot me a PM/email. I work in the parts dept. of Exeter Subaru/Subaruwrxparts.com

:boohoo: I wish I could find one out here that cheap! I wish I could find one out here at all!

For the old one? Sure !

I got a door for my Brat for $35. It's brand-new, and it's even painted white already ! I have to drill a hole for the mirror, but I'm going to take the opportunity at having a brand-new door to completely seal the inside with undercoating and install a good drain :-).

For the cost of it, I'd just replace the whole clutch cable and the lock and adjust nuts. The cables stretch over time.

I'll bet you a cookie it's Denso- I can check for certain tomorrow when I get into work.

It's not much, but it's 5% anyway, good until November 3rd. I got all kinds of stuff for my Brat from them, from the radiator to new battery cables. Use this code when ordering (only put this code in the field, and nothing else, or it won't work) 5507662117

The one might have four bolts and the other 7, but the holes are in the right places so either type will fit either type.

If you had any idea how much the stock mounts flex, you wouldn't ask this question .

Oh I know, I was just saying I can't cut one for skeet sight unseen :-).

That's the thing- I can do it (well, I probably can as long as the key codes were entered) but I can't cut the key without proof of ID and proof of ownership right there in front of me. Anybody could cut a key by VIN and steal a car if dealerships cut them without ID :-).

Keep in mind, the Legacy is a battleship compared to a Civic. The power to weight ratios are vastly different. Switching to a manual is not going to make the drastic difference you think it will .

I'd say you've blown out an air strut, and all that's damping the car now is the spring, hence the bouncy nature of the vehicle.

I work for Subaru... the info came straight from the horse's mouth :-).

By VIN, it's a 1988 Loyale GL10 sedan AWD turbo 5spd with: PS, PW, PL, AIR CONDITIONING, CRUISE CONTROL, DD, SUNROOF, LSD I could tell you the ignition key code, where it was originally sold, how much it orginally cost, and who the present owner is, but then I'd have to kill you

Depends on how many lines there are in between . If there's like 4, each line would be another 200rpm. If there's say 9, each would be another 100rpm.

Snap On (I know... $$$) makes a spark plug tool that fits into the spark plug tube and leaves about an inch sticking out of the tube (ie: just enough clearance to get a ratchet in there). The end that sticks out is knurled so after you start with a ratchet you can finish with just your hand. It's great for starting the plugs back into the sockets- makes it damn near impossible to crossthread them.

#1 22601AA012: The parts book says its for 1985-1985 GL/DL sedan or GL/DL station wagon with a carburetor #1 22601AA012: This is for a GL10 or RX sedan or a GL10 wagon with no mention of carb or FI made I'd say put #1 back in

Thanks to XSNRG, I will have steps on both sides.... MUHAHAHAHAHAH :-).

I would *highly* doubt the rear seats are legal anywhere in the USA if you were on the public roadways .