North Ursalia

I can get brand new EJ22T shortblocks, but shipping to OZ will likely be a killer . The good news is it costs so much to ship because we can only send them by air freight and you have it in like 2 days though !

Ok, two more I can think of, but I know you're going to have to call- they won't be on the websites: http://www.hms-motorsport.com and http://www.primmracing.com If neither of them have it, then I've got nothing .

You could try these guys if you haven't: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/S-mart.cgi?command=add&itemid=MO-7303&itemname=MOMO%20Hub%20Adapter%2C%20Fits%20Many%20Applcations&itemprice=65.50&itemquant=1

I actually have all the bulbs (I only think one is burnt out) but I took the whole dash cluster apart to clean it, and I am replacing all the bulbs at this time so I will likely never have to do it again. I want to get brand new bulbs if possible .

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the indicator area (like door ajar and such- all the way over on the right) on the dash cluster for my 85 Brat GL. The bulbs are small and in a rubber housing (brown in this case) that push over pins on the PCB. The bulb seats say "Toshiba 5001" on them, and Subaru of America has not a single one in any of the warehouses. I removed the bulb from the rubber base, but there isn't a single number on the bulb itself. Anyone find a source for a replacement for these bulbs? Any help would be most appreciated!

$1.40 actually .

It sounds an awful lot like you are blocking cookies from the website if you keep getting kicked back to the main page.

$1.40. Subaru is kind enough to pick up the entire tab ! We refer to it as "headgasket in a bottle" or "heater core stop heat" here at work.

Am I serious about the JB Weld? Absolutely . Fully cured, the stuff is amazing. My present motor in the 2000 RS had an oil seepage at a casting mark, which got the owner a new block and me a nearly new block (1400 miles). JB Weld fixed it like a charm. The guy who did the repair has gone about 35k miles on his stock car motor fixed with JB Weld. It'll cost you $5 for the JB Weld, and the worst that will happen is it will blow out over time. With that much surface area that, I doubt it will though. It's kinda 1/2 assed yes, but done properly, the stuff is absolutely amazing . Get new heads if you can afford to, but for $5 you can't afford to not give it a try.

A little JB Weld and that will be right as rain !

Get new pad guides as suggested if you haven't changed them, and while you are at it, grind down the 'tabs' on the brake pads a bit that fit into those guides. I'd nearly guarantee that the pads are hanging up in guides because the pads are slightly too big. There is a TSB about this currently in fact .

I don't know if you thought of a more simple solution, like getting the armrest extension, which will make it nigh on impossible to accidentally tip the switches .

Much of the work you can do yourself- if you can change your oil, you can do much of the work. I'd take it to the dealership personally for those items you don't want to do or can't do yourself.

The other thing on the newer 2.5's that people mistake for piston slap is the timing belt tensioner. The new style tensioner Subaru started using around 1999/2000/2001 (depends on the model) is notorious for going bad, allowing the timing belt to actually slap against the timing belt cover. This also often goes away after warmup, which is why it is often overlooked as piston slap. Mine was particularly bad, and sounded like a bad exhaust manifold gasket.

If any dealership has stuff that old, they should be shot . Seriously though, you'd be suprised how much stuff is actually in the warehouses- the door mouldings for my BRAT are still available !

It stops the forward rear "pitching" of the engine on its mounts, and I wasn't aware they were adjustable :-).

Subaru doesn't offer pints or anything, just touch up paint. If your color code tag still exists, you can have any body shop mix you up a batch.

A TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) is a manufacturer-approved fix for X problem. They are not related to safety (I can't think of one off the top of my head that is) and are not government mandated. TSB's can either be paid for by the manufacturer (if the vehicle is still under warranty) or it is up to the customer to pay them. Recalls can be either voluntary (manufacturer mandated) or involuntary (government mandated) and are special because they usually involve A) the safety of operators/occupants directly and are done at the expense of the manufacturer, regardless of age of the vehicle, even if all normal warranties are expired.

The oil seperator plate leaking isn't fatal, unless you don't monitor your oil level . Also, it can and will ruin your clutch- don't put it off needlessly. Fixing the leak is cheaper than fixing the leak and replacing the clutch . I don't want to be a naysayer either, but I highly doubt Subaru is going to pay a dime for something they didn't fix that they A) didn't touch and that you didn't ask them to check/fix. It'd be nice if they did, but I honestly don't see it happening. Like I said before, the seperator plate is not removed for a VC replacement, nor is it removed for a head gasket job. The seal on the plate isn't actually a seal but a bunch of Fujibond or the like... your engine would have had to SERIOUSLY overheat for that stuff to degrade- it's designed to be high heat resistant. It's most likely that the seperator plate is still firmly affixed to the block for the most part and a(the) bolt(s) backed out, allowing the plate to leak. I work in a dealership, and it's a fairly common thing.

It won't fit backwards without custom work either .

The VC is in the tailshaft of the tranny- the tranny doesn't need to come out of the car to replace it. The headgaskets were likely done in the car, but even if not, they wouldn't have taken the rear access cover (the oil seperator plate) off to do headgaskets. The bolts back out over time... it's just one of those things that happen I'm afraid.

Why can't you live on the East Coast ?

The rubber + terminal cover from new Legacies works great- I put one on after I welded my socket wrench to it and the - battery wire . It only costs like $3 or $4.

The hood scoop is not and never was intended to be an air intake- the Subaru is not a Chevy or a Pontiac . It was meant to ventilate a top mount intercooler- granted, there is no turbo nor TMIC on your car, but it still can function to ventilate your engine bay, just remove or space the blocking plates away from the hood: The heat forced out of the vents was enough to melt the shell of ice on my RS :-).