North Ursalia

They're 2.5 hours from our cage builder, which is about 2.5 hours from my house :-). I should drive the Brat up (when/if I get it running).

That "revolutionary product" is a magnet. It's supposed to break apart long hydrocarbon chains to make them easier to burn. Yeah, okay. Those long hydrocarbon chains are what makes gasoline be gasoline . It's a bucket of foo foo dust IMHO.

I'm thinking about getting them now (in white) for a tentative repainting in the early spring :-). Good luck with yours!

dahled@aol.com

The Outback is made at the SIA plant in Indiana .

Stone between your backing plate and your rotor perhaps? Happens to me all the time.

I think you clicked the wrong button To answer your question though, the Impreza has been available with a 2.5 engine since 1998. It was DOHC in 98 and from 99-present it has a SOHC 2.5 engine.

ID is 27mm and OD is 30mm. For the $.75 or $1.00 these things cost, I don't know why people are going through soooooooo much trouble to find something aftermarket though... I should do a 'group buy' on drain gaskets !

Sorry to hear of the loss, but glad you're okay. FFR, the airbags will only deploy when at least one of the sensors and the lateral G sensor hit their threshold. Rolling will not activate them, only a sudden stop from a front end collision will do it.

On an OEM crush washer, the ID is 20mm and the OD is 26mm. The drain bolt itself is 19mm x 1.25 pitch IIRC.

I imagine the "ByTheSea" refers to Manchester? I'd love to see your BRAT sometime- my girlfriend lives in Gloucester and I'm on Cape Ann practically every weekend :-). Might inspire me to work harder on mine !

No, that was earlier this spring or late last fall, I can't remember which. It is up in the White Mountains of NH, and snow comes pretty early and stays pretty late though :-)!

Heh, I have one of those too (granted, it was taken from my 2000 RS ) Kancamagus Highway, New Hampshire

The SVX was never turbo'd and never anything but a 4EAT regardless of country of sale (they were all made in Japan). If it is actually turbo'd, it's aftermarket. Where in NH are you? If you are semi-close to Manchester-Portsmouth-Salem-Nashua, I wouldn't mind lending an ear to your noise :-).

It is 5x100.

You also hit 'new thread' instead of 'reply'

The lock blew out on my 84 back in the day (key would come right out) and this 85 is broken too. I have a brand new lock as well as a used one... the used one has no key though. The keycode is in the box, but of course 1 of the 3 pieces I need to cut the key we don't have here at the dealership .

You can get the accessory map lights out of a second generation Legacy (95-99) brand new from Subaru for $8: I cut down the thickness of the light body a bit, stuck it on the headliner with double sided tape, and wired it to the dome light- works like a charm :-)!

If you think that's bad, wait until I have to un-weld my seats from the floorpan to Rhino line it- ugh. I'm having the Trunkmonkey Racing cage builder (did I mention this is destined to be a support vehicle for the Trunkmonkey Racing PGT Impreza L and P Dodge Neon ?) do the dismount of the seats and weld some brackets to the floor so I can bolt in a set of Impreza seats (out of the PGT Impreza actually). With any luck, he can weld me up a quick 'low' rollbar for it too! While we're at it, I'm going to see about mounting a set of more conventional struts/springs out of an Impreza donor- might as well try while I have the expertise at hand!

Thanks folks! It's some stuff VHT makes- I get it from SummitRacing.com. It's a vinyl dye (works on plastic, leather, pleather, cloth- you can even do seats/carpet with it, and I will ) and goes for about $7 a can I believe. It comes in lots of colors, and I chose Dove Gray for the ceiling and Charcoal Gray for most everything else. One can goes a looooong way. For most parts, I wash first with a degreaser, then sand (if plastic), let dry, wipe down with DuPont Prep-Sol solvent (any solvent should work, just use something 'light' that dries quickly in the air). The solvent ensures there is no residual water on the part and (more importantly) no grease/oils from your hands. I wait maybe 10 minutes or so after the solvent to ensure it dries. Then, I spray in one direction (this stuff dries quick) and give it a second coat at a 90 degree angle to the first coat, to ensure total coverage. You let the stuff dry for a day or so, and then wash with warm soapy water to get the powdery finish knocked down, and it looks great :-)!

For current photos, a little "before and after" Before: After: Before and after together: And finally, no befores, just afters:

There are lots of piecemeal photos of individual parts I've been messing with, but I haven't done anything major to the body as of yet. Photos from when I got her:

I have to advise against a junkyard radiator- personally, I'd just go with something a bit more guaranteed to work. I also wouldn't get one from Radiator.com- I got one from RockAuto.com (which has LOTS of relatively inexpensive parts for all ages of Subarus) for something like $105 shipped which fit perfectly, when Radiator.com wants $140 before shipping for the same thing.

I know, it's just a grill badge, but I have the sense of accomplishment for having repainted it as well as the grill XSNRG sent me. I still don't have the damn thing running yet, but it's going to be the best damn looking paperweight when I get done... she should run when I get the new ignition lock and electrical bits in there though. All my progress/updates available by clicking on the little BRAT photo below.

It was only 89 and 90, so speaketh the Subaru parts catalog CDs I use at work .