jcniest5

Are you financing it? If you are, I would say the $$ added to your monthly payment isn't that much, so keep the warranty. I garrantee the $1,700 won't earn enough interest during the full 5-6 six years to cover any major repair cost. A tranny service alone would cost you over 2 grands. You will be glad you keep the ext warranty.

Hi guys. Just want to know if there is something I can do get a better acceleration out of my '91 Legacy AT AWD non-Turbo. It doesn't have the pulling power it once had. Is it the AT, dirty injectors, engine clogged or something else? Or all? I changed the fuel filter back in 7/01, so it's probably not it. I used fuel injectors cleaner regularly in my gas, does that helps? As always, thanks in advance! JC

It seems like you guys get so much of your gas! Mine only gets 17-20 MPG max in highway. Worse in the city (15-18 MPG). Not sure if mine were to be manual would make much difference at all. Would it?

Any ideas on how much it would cost for such service? Better yet, are you located in the Twin Cities?

Good luck! It's a big job for sure, even just replacing the seal. I did one on my '91 Legacy back in 8/01 and it was such a pain. I had to do it not one but two times before the seal finally seated. The first time, I was too hurry and the lip of the seal was pushed in and causing it to break after five miles of driving! Fluid was leaking like crazy fortunately I managed to get home safely on the test drive. Whewwwww!!!! I had to take down the whole tranny again and install another new seal. I almost had to install a new tranny again http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18046 But read the conclusion...

There must be one. Can't work without it. It's either a tensioner or a pulley with an adjuster bolt/nut somewhere. You just have to find it. It's probably below or hidden. It's there.

Just thought I would update my threat and tell if anyone who wants (or cares) to know what has concluded to the problem. I was skeptical about the problem being the computer but went ahead anyway to try it first since it's the cheapest way. Bought a used/pulled computer from a wrecking/salvage yard and found (later) that they gave me the wrong one even though I specifically asked for the AWD one. They gave me the 2WD computer and I proceeded to put it on not knowing any better. I attempted to drive the car, because of the wrong computer, the rear differential was locked (meaning the two wheels/axles spin synchronizingly at the same time and that's very fatal on hard, pavement road). I felt like there was hesitant at the rear but didn't think of anything much and went ahead and went for a test drive. I headed for the highway for about a three mile drive and headed home. On the way home, I almost got into an accident, it was raining somewhat and an older lady went through her red light, we almost had a head-on collision. She was coming from my left and I was going North. I managed to see that she was going through the red light and managed to slammed on the brake and came to a complete stop in the middle of the intersection. I was honking but she was driving like nothing's happening in the world. Anyway, when I got home and pulled into the parking lot, I felt that hesitant again and I tried to back up with steering column turn hard right, my car literally came to a stop by itself in Reverse without me stepping on the brake pedal because of the differential locked and they couldn't spin individually. I really felt something very weird going on. Jacked up the front of the car, put in the fuse for the FWD, started engine and put in D. Wheels are not spinning. Gave it a little gas, car acted like it wants to move and the front wheels barely spinned. Look at the rear wheels, holy crap! The rear wheels were trying to spin as well. Bad news! Wrong computer! Put the old computer back on, everything worked fine again, front wheels spinning and rear wheels didn't try to spin. It was Sunday so I waited until this morning (Monday) to call that wrecking yard. Told them of the situation. They said they have none in AWD and they said I could return it. Drove there, brought it back the guy that helped me originally. He checked on his computer system and stepped away for a few minutes, then he came back had in his hands another computer. Funny how one person said they didn't have any while another one just went out and grabbed one on the shelf! Tried that one, it worked this time. No more differential locking up. No more of the hard shifting from first to second gear either! Yeah! What was originally thought as tranny problem and could end up costing me five to six hundred dollars just costed me $40.00. Not bad at all! The best news of all is that after all the test drive with the differential locked, nothing was damaged, which I was surprise myself considering driving on hard surface pavement road with the rear differential locked. It could have been fatal and my rear differential could have been nothing but POS. Considering the money I saved and the hard lesson learned, it was a helluya of a adventure! Hope you enjoy reading.

Can I possibly replace my '91 Tranny with a '93 Tranny? They both are AWD and non-turbo. From looking at the project, I might end up spending too much, much more than I can even afford. One more thing, what do you mean by 'trashed torque converter'? The torque converter is that thing that looks kind of like a chicken gizzard that I need to use six bolts to bolt it to the engine, correct? When I originally had mine replaced (8/01) I thought that piece is indestructible unless it's totalled. Is my assumption wrong? So it can be defected or go bad? If it's just that thing, possibly it's as hard to replace than the whole tranny. In either way, the tranny has to be taken out anyway, but at least I won't have to spend too much $$$ on a new tranny.

I just found out several parts may have caused this shifting problem with the biggest one may be the tranny itself. However, it could also be the AT Computer Control Unit, the AT Control Solenoid and then there's the 'drop-in' something after that I forgot. I'm going to try replacing the Computer control unit first to see if it is it. Then I'm going down the list with the last stop being the tranny itself since it's the most expensive part. Anyone, please, any hints will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Is there such thing as this? My tranny is either going out or if there is such thing title says, it could be culprit of the problem. It's a long story, but lately, my tranny (91 Legacy 2.2 non-turbo AWD) is shifting hard (high RPM) from first to second gear. After that, it seems to be normal, but it doesn't have the pull power that it used to have anymore. I took it to a shop and the mechanic there thought it is a tranny for sure and would cost me $2,200.00 to have it fixed. Ridiculous! With that kind of $$$, I can actually buy a good used car! Anyone has any ideas? Could a long term use of Durablend ATF ruined my tranny?

Thanks for the reply. I'm going with the complete hub assembly and not the wheel bearing itself as it will be too much work to have someone press it in for me. The overall cost might not worth it either. I went to this brake shop and the people there treated me very rude. They said they won't do it (even though I offered to pay them to take out the axle nut) if I don't let them do the whole thing, which would cost me $300.00 (so they told me if they do everything). I think they are just rude and very unprofessional. I don't know why any employer would even hire such people.

My Subaru finally goes bad with the rear right bearing. It's making zooming noise. I took off the tire and found the outside hub is loose. I wonder how hard it is to replace this bearing or do I have to take it to a shop to do it. I had a shop took off the locking nut, but the outside hub doesn't seem come off. I need to use a puller or something. My question: Is this a user replaceable bearing? Or is this bearing something has to be pressed in by a shop? Thanks in advance

For some reason, it stopped smelling gas the following day, so I just thought maybe it was just a fluke. Thanks for pointing the possible cause of it, though.

Just very recently, my '91 Legacy starts to smell gas at idle or when the engine is on and the car is not moving. Once I give it gas and drive off, the smell of gas disappears. As soon as the car slows down or on traffic stop, the smell of gas comes back. It's very strong, too. I have no idea where to look for. Anybody has this problem before?

Also, you can do it by pryng out the black rubber/plastic cover that is located at the top right, rear of the engine. Once you take out this plastic piece, you can locate each bolt (by turning the tranny) that holds the TC to the flywheel at the rear of the engine. I believe there are six bolts. Once you locate these bolts, use socket wrench 12MM to take them out, after which you should then be able to separate the tranny from the engine. (I assume you have taken out the four main bolts that hold the tranny housing to the back of the engine.)

Nathan is correct. I looked at the CV boot of the inner axle and to my surprise, it is broken into two halves. My question is: Is the inner and outer CV boot interchangeable? For some reason, I told the salesman it is the outer boot so I got it but when I got home and really took a look at it, I meant to say it's the inner boot. So, someone please tell me it's interchangeable so that I don't have to drive back to the store. Thanks to Nathan for pointing this out.

Grease? That's alarming to me, at least. Ball-joint grease? I better check my b-joints.

I must confess, I haven't change my oil timely, but I've notice that oil disappears slightly after two to three months of driving, but I don't see any sign of leaking at the bottom of the engine. It's totally dry. The only sign of oil seems to be like droplets (many of them) just behind the left of the engine and by the front left kick panel (or front wall). It's lots of droplets of oil but I can't seem to locate where they came from. No wet or leaking sign anywhere. I'm very puzzled. Anybody have this problem before? Where to look for?

Well, just found out earlier tonight that it's not the problem with the coil as hoped. Replaced the suspected one with a used one but was disappointed that it's still doing it afterward. I'm fearing the worst: the tranny. I guess I will just to drive it until it dies and then junk it. It's time to get a new SUV anyway.

What is the exact name for this coil? Searching for "Coil" returned too many items, not sure which is which. I'm going to try the junk yard first, though, hopefully to get it for $5-$10 bucks.

I remember reading somewhere awhile back about the going up and down of RPM right after starting the engine, but I don't quite remember what to change/swap out. Can someone repoint me to the corrective action for this? Thanks

Mine does the same thing as stated here. Rotating tires doesn't help so I think it's either bearing or ball joints worn out. I just drive it with the little annoying.

Well, I haven't swapped out the coil yet. I surely hope it is the problem as rotating the TPS back doesn't help. I will look into swapping the coil or doing some wire test to verify that it is the problem. Do auto parts stores stock this coil? I hope they do cuz it's cheaper buying it from them instead of the dealer.

And what about the TPS? Can it make the tranny behave the way it does on mine? I loosened the two screws and rotate the TPS all the way to the rear. I will know how it works tomorrow during normal traffic driving. Looks like nobody has anything to offer anymore. Could this be possible that nobody has anything?

(Edited: Oops, not sure if the 2.5L is like the 2.2L or not so this may not apply to you at all) Not sure and I haven't try it on mine, but have you try loosening the screw to the left of the throttle body yet? Perhaps it may help.