jcniest5

My Low Fuel light never comes on no matter how low the the fuel is. I just live by checking on the gauge very often when driving. I wonder if the light bulb is burnt out or the sensor in the gas tank not working working properly. What's the best way to check this out?

I used Throttle Intake cleaner and blasted that needle (MAF sensor) thing off earlier this morning. I will have to keep an eye on my mpg to see if it makes any difference. Edited/Added: Just got new tires, and brakes are all working fine, no dragging or unexpected braking affect. BTW: How much are injectors anyway?

You mean the sensor that looks like some of kind of needle located just past the air filter housing? I think the last time I took it out or opened it (a week ago), it is was clean. But I will check it again. I will also check the air pressure coming out of the exhaust pipe. Oxygen sensor is my next item to be replaced. Any idea where I can get cheap OS2? Edited/Added: Can you unplug the MAF connector without the engine dying? On mine, if I unplug that connector, the engine dies immediately. Won't it suppose to run even when the connector is unplug, but just runs really crappy? Those of you who have time, please help me by unplugging your MAF sensor connector and see if your engine dies immediately, too. If not, I think my ECU may be the culprit.

Everyone once awhile, I would get a Check Engine light. It would go away after 5-10 minutes of driving. Then it would be gone for months if not longer. Everytime I hose the engine with water, the Check Engine would also come on until the engine is complete dry (usually after 30 minutes of driving on highway). I reset the ECU and it would go on for months (and longer) without the Check Engine light. I'm very puzzling... Edit/add: Could it be that I've switched the tires from 175 to 185? The tires for the car were 175/70R14 but ever since I've bought the car, I chose the 185/70R14. Also, they are supposed to rate H but I opted for the S rating for cost effective. Could my decision to go with cheaper tires be the culprit of my poor gas MPG?

No leak anywhere. The smells when you first start the engine is somewhat alarming, though. Instead of the natural smell of gas fume coming out of the exhaust pipe, it smells more like real gas mixed with the fume. If I can remember it correctly, the smells should be plain fume with not real gas odor. Also, can a fuel filter cause my engine to drink more gas? I thought it only prevents it from having a free-flow operation but not makes the engine drink more gas. That's just my understanding. I guess if I have to, then I will replace it as well. For some reason, I really believe it's the oxygen sensor, but who knows if I'm right or wrong.

Guys, I've posted on other threads about getting a less MPG on my '91 Legacy AWD non-Turbo Auto but so far no one has answer my question specifically, so here I am forced to ask again. I need to know what is really wrong with my car. Okay, here's what I've done so far: Replace Plugs, Wires, new air filter, use Fuel two cans of Injector cleaner. Instead of improving, I think it's actually getting worse. I can actually see my gas gauge meter moving! The only thing I can think of replacing is the oxygen sensor. I mean a 4-cylinder engine can't drink this much gas! I used to get 20-25 mpg before. Now, I'm down to 12-15 mpg. And it is getting worse! Please, please, please, your hints and assistance will greatly be appreciated! Thanks in advance... JC

Yeah, it's not that much. It's like $4.97 or something at Walmart. Checkers Auto Parts sell it for $7.99! Wow, I can't believe it! Anyway, I think my next oil change, I might add it.

Hi all. Tis me again! Aren't you glad I have a question again? Well, anyway, here I go: I was wandering in Walmart and have come across (yet again) this oil additive called Engine Restorer or something like that. The descriptions say that it supposes to give my 'worn' engine some new life. It will restore compression, therefore restore lost horsepower. I wonder how effective this oil additive is? Anyone has anything positive or negative comments to pewk? I need to know if I should buy it or not. Thanks again!

Well, I'm glad there is none to look for. For awhile, I was thinking mine was missing or stolen! Hehehehe...LOL, silly me!

I can't find where the EGR is located on my car! I read two repair/service manuals, both indicated it's close to the fuel filter, mounted to the intake manifold. However, I can't find it there or anywhere at all! Could it be that mine doesn't have one? Help, I'm totally lost! Mine is the '91 Legacy AWD 2.2 non-turbo.

It seems like they actually make my car drink more gas! I think I can actually see the gas gauge moving! Help! What's the deal now? Possibly an oxygen sensor would help? Would it? My old plugs are Bosch Platinum 4. Still saving them just in case these new NGK screw me up real bad!

Not sure if this relates to your problem, but (at least my car) if I disconnect the connector to the Mass Air Sensor, my car dies immediately. So, my guess is if it is a problem with your MAS, your car wouldn't even go for a second, it just dies immediately. Not sure if mine is normal or if MAS should be that way or not.

Now that someone mentioned PS pump, I have some questions regarding mine. It was leaking so I went and bought a used (at the wrecking yard) and replace the leaking one. The odd problem is it continues to leak. The even odder thing is that I can't figure out where it is leaking from. After a few days or driving, I notice fluid/oil just below where the PS pump. I checked for leak but can never see where it is coming from. Not that it is completely dry by any means, but no big sign of any real wet looking either! The only thing I haven't done so far is to buy a new O-ring to replace the old one on the pump. After a couple weeks of not checking, I can actually see puddle of fluid/oil! But the PS reservoir remains full as well, so I'm very puzzled here. Someone point me to the right direction, PLZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi all. Just purchased four NGK Spark Plugs from PepBoy. Are they really that good or is it just smart marketing strategy? What about this Iridium tip? Has anyone done a professional test on it, comparing it to the regular copper tip and Platinum tip? Of those of you that already used it, does it make any difference in term of saving gas and all other things that NGK (or any Iridium makers) claims? Thanks in advance!

This thread is getting interesting with the many replies posted. Keep us posted as you go on with the journey of loosening the axle nut! Hehehehehe...LOL

Yeap, I'm in the Twin Cities just like yourself. I live in Crystal, to be exact. Haven't found anyone that owns a Subie to share hints with (more like asking for hints). Well, not in person anyway because I've got lots of hints and help from this site. Thanks to the person that started it all!

Yes, I will call around first if/when I want to flush my tranny fluid. As for now, I just spent about $70.00 to get four NGK Spark Plugs and a set of wire to tune up my car (home done). Is there a tune up point like carburated car? You know, on carburated engines, you use the timing gun, then turn the rotor until the timing light synch with the set mark on the pulley or somewhere then tighten the screw for the rotor then you are set. What about fuel injected car? I really don't see anywhere to set this procedure. I'm probably not doing it correctly. I think I may still need to get the oxygen sensor. For some reason, I'm not getting the good gas mpg like I should and I keep thinking it may have something to do with the oxygen sensor. Mine gets roughly 13-15 mpg city and 15-18 mpg highway. Is this typical of this AUTO AWD vehicle? I just replaced the air filter tonight as well (along with the spark plugs and wires). One more thing, my repair book says there is an EGR valve that I must check and replace if necessary. But I couldn't find it anywhere on the engine. I looked everywhere even on the manifold (top). I haven't tried under the engine yet. Where is it located anywhere? I looked where they said it is found and it's not there. I'm not getting anywhere with this. Please help

Alright, Jason, I will keep that in mind for sure. Thanks for all your replies!

The torch will do the trick. If not the first time, a few times later would do it, unless it is of extreme situation, which may require other means of loosening it. Just torch it until it turns RED!

The problem is if they put it back on and stake it, it would be too hard and impossible to remove it again! Then you are back to square one! Hehehehe...

Yeah, only a few shops will do that. They want to collect the money from doing the whole thing for you. I actually went through a few shops myself, asking for that service. They said if they did that, they wouldn't make any money so they can't. Tsk...tsk...tsk...they are so freaking greedy! If I had a shop, I would do that for any customer for a minimal charge. Besides, it's a service itself, so why not? Only these greedy people wouldn't do it. I was mad upon hearing that. FYI: I paid $20.00 to have mine done at the shop that was willing to do it. Oh, the link above is just my other post, look for: AT Shift Control Unit and read further down for my experiment.

Let me just tell you a story. It wasn't too long ago, I financed a used Jeep Cherokee Limited. I opted to go with the extended warranty and it ended up costing me just $100 for the tranny work, which costed that company roughly about $2500. I don't remember how much the ext warranty was, but I was so glad I had that to cover the cost. Granted, it was my fault. I moved across the state and had to tow my Jeep with only front end on the trailer. I knew that the 4x4 lever had to be in the N so no damage can come to the tranny, and I setted it there, but as the long drive continued, the lever got dislodged so my tranny was a toasted once I got to my place. Anyway, to make the story short, I got it fixed and I paid only $100.00 for the $2500 tranny.

On mine, here: http://65.54.170.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN&lah=665cca793644346229263a95f7ce59e0&lat=1089164320&hm___action=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eultimatesubaru%2enet%2fforum%2fshowthread%2ephp%3ft%3d18046%26goto%3dnewpost I had to take it to a shop and they used super hot torch and heated the nut until it turned RED and even that, it still took them many times to make it loosened. Also, an impact wrench would make it so much easier.

Alright, I think I will keep that in mind. Not too far from me, so if I happen to drive that way, I will drop by. What dealer/shop anyway? Edit/add: Hey, btw, you do more than just drain the fluid, correct? I know that home flush only involves draining the old fluid and refilling it with new one. I don't know what is actually involved in a professional AT fluid flush. I guess I've always thought it's the same procedure so there is no need to have it done professinally. But that's because I didn't (and still don't) know what makes it more affective/better than a home flush.

Thanks for the replies. I have never done a full tune-up on the car since I got it. It has like 180K miles on it now. I remember I bought and replace the plugs, air filter and fuel filter back in 7/01. Not much else since. The wires were never replaced, if I remember it correctly. I think I looked at them, determining that they looked good, no cracks no sign of any wear and tear so I thought they were still good. The Oxygen sensor also has never been replaced all these years. Perhaps it's time for a complete tune-up.