jcniest5

There is a way to test it by yourself without driving it. Jack up the car and use jack stands to support all four corners, start the engine, put it in D and (have someone) rev it to 70 and observe all the wheels/tires. You will really notice which one vibrates if any. That's how I found out that two of my tires were warped and since they all were three years, I replaced them all and now my car is running smoothly again. Words of caution: When jacking up your car and use jack stands to support it, make absolutely sure that none of the jack stands can slip off (any corner from the vibration) since your car will be going like 70 MPH and if any tires and touch the pavement/ground, there's big consequence.

Good luck! Hehhehe...LOL!

You mention a car that looks exactly like mine, although mine is a 91 and has more K on it. It's very easy to figure why it doesn't hold coolant. Fill it with water but be careful not to splash water anywhere so that you will know if there is any leaks anywhere. Once you find where it is leaking (hopefully it's not somewhere deep within the engine or head somewhere), you can determine if it is worth fixing it. If it is just the radiator, it's well worth fixing it (IMO).

Your problem with the up and down engine idling could be a problem with the Idle Air Control unit (IAC). You may need to replace it. Here's the link to show you where it is and what it looks like: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG And the Canister Purge Solenoid Valve may also be involved in this case: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG Both items are easy to replace, assuming your hands are small enough to go in between (or under) the two intakes (for replacing the CPSV). Replacing the IAC involves clearing some tubes and valves (and probably the main intake hose, the big black one).

The ECU (and also the TCU), which can be purchased at this Junk Yard for roughly $14.00 (in the Twin Cities, Rosemount, specifically and it's called U Pull R Parts) assuming they have it. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. Once you have it, it's very easy to replace. Just a matter of disconnecting the wire connectors, unbolting the module and take it out and put the new one in. Ten minutes max.

Just found another store has the universal one for $49.00. I think that's where I am heading unless I find it cheaper elsewhere. Anyone knows of any cheaper one around? This store is Checker Auto, the first one mentioned above is Red Rooster Auto Parts. I've called around the whole day but found it to be more expensive, possibly because I was asking specifically for the one that direct fits for my Legacy.

I'm about to purchase an oxygen sensor for my car. I've been searching far and wide and found a store locally here that sells a universal oxygen sensor for $66.00. I found one on the internet (Bosch) that is sold for $70.00. Now, my battle is whether to go with the specific one or the universal one. Other than the wires that I need to cut and grimp to the stock wires, what else is different between the two? Better performance one vs the other? Reliability? Compatibility? What's the better option? Thanks again, guys (and girls).

Thanks very much for the pictures! Now I know a little more, but I want more! Is the IAC the creamy color-looking part only, or is it the whole assembly, which also consisted of the metal part? Thanks again.

Excuse me if I sound too noobie, I should know where it is or what it looks like (after owning the 91 Legacy AWD non-turbo for just over three years) but I just don't know! Where is it and what does it look like? Is it cleanable (which I assume it is because I read somewhere someone's been cleaning it). Again, thanks!

Perhaps you just have a defected temp gauge? It can't be hot that quick...fine, fine, fine, OOPS, HOT! That's not normal. Hehhehe...LOL.

Probably the solenoid is bad? Or the AT Shift Control Unit (aka Tranny Computer Unit) is bad? Other things to look for is the actual shift lever and its engagement mechanism, which is located inside the tranny itself and you have to lower the tranny to work on it. Very time consuming also.

Does it overheat going uphill? It's very strange if it only overheats going downhill. Never heard of such before. What you done to fix it so far? New radiator? New thermostat? Coolant drain completete with a flush?

You can reset the ECU and see if the CEL comes back when you restart you car. To do so, disconnect your positive battery cable (or unplug fusible link in the engine fuse compartment) for 45 minutes and reconnect it and start you engine but do not press the gas pedal or turn on any accessories. After 5 min., drive it normally and observe the CEL.

MorganM seems to know alot about Subs. He lives in the Twin Cities and he may know.

Used one at Junk Yard will cost 1/5 (if not less) of a new one at the dealer.

I think it may not be the PS pump. It's the thing down there (for now I just totally forgot the name!). Arggg....watchmacallit? It's the part that actually steers your car when you turn the steering column. And that part! Wow, it's expensive to replace. And it's also much, much harder than replacing the pump. FYI: If anyone wants a good used pump, I can sell one for $25.00 (or BO) plus shipping. It's working perfectly. You will need a new o-ring that goes in between the pump and reservoir.

My bad, I should've told you guys that my car is a '91 Legacy L AWD non-Turbo. Twelve gallons is what I've always thought this car's tank to hold. Unless the gas gauge is incorrect when it says it E or F. When it's at E, the number of gallons it takes to fill it up is roughly 12 gallons.

Josh, Right on!!!

Yes, I'm sure it's nearly empty. Reason? I would fill up the tank with 12 gallons of gas when gauge is near E. I truly believe the gauge is accurate. If it's half empty, I would fill it up with 5-6 gallons, near empty, I would fill it up with 11-12 gallons. But even when it's at E, the light never comes on and I would have to fill it up with at least 12 gallons. Either the light is burnt out or the sending unit doesn't work.

I think mine is accurate but like I said, the Fuel Low light doesn't work even if my tank is near empty.

I took off the backseat, saw the fuel pump connector but couldn't do anything else or how to get to the tank opening! Where is it? It looks like I have to lower the gas tank unless I missed something. When my tank is filled up, the gas gauge moves ever so....s.l.o.w. It's like at least couple miles or several minutes (if not longer) of the engine running before the gauge begins to show that the tank is full. It moves really slow! Definitely it's the sending unit. Can we replace the bulb? How to replace it?

You got the right person today! Read my AT Shift Control thread. But FYI: There is a computer that controls the tranny. It's to the left of the steering column, right above your left knee. It's mount vertical with either an HS, EF or EE (big letter) on the cover. You can't miss it. Its size is roughly 5x6in. May I ask what is wrong with it?

Hehehehehe...LOL. Okay, if that's how far I have to go.

Also, just changed oil about 1K miles back with Durablend 10-30W oil. FYI: It's sythetic blend, so it's not complete sythetic.

PCV Valve, when you can hear the click, is that still good? Is there even a definite good or bad sign when testing it?