
jcniest5
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Everything posted by jcniest5
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Mine (see sig.) has this smell, too. I posted awhile back but can't remember if anyone gave a clear solution. It's winter here in MN and the smell is back as well, though not all the times, but you can definitely smell it. It feels like it's coming from the air duct/heater somewhere. Check fuel line with not visual sign of any leaking.
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JuniorBill, I have a used one and I'm almost certain it's interchangeable (I could be wrong, though). If you need it, let me know. I can send it to you with no charge if you pay the shipping, that's all. It's actually my old one cuz awhile back I thought mine went bad cuz it was leaking. I thought it was the pump, bought a used one to replace it, still was leaking, so I replaced the O-ring on the new/used one and leaking stopped. So, I have my old one laying around which I rather give it to someone who can use it. The pump is still good, although you may need to replace the old and worn out O-ring. Just take the O-ring to an auto parts store and ask them to compare it to one of theirs until you can find one with the same size. It's very easy to replace and it only costed me $.87 plus tax. Pretty cheap fix!
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Well, finally some replies! I was beginning to forget I've posted anything had I not checked/read my emails. Anyway, if I could get thru the winter without have a dead car, it's pretty cold now making a tranny swap a major headaches, especially my hands will really pay the price. I'm going to just go thru winter without swapping it out and see how long I can drive it. It's shifting awkardly (don't know how to describe it, sorry) but at least it's still going.
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If you bought the universal OS2, be very careful when doing the wire. The color doesn't necessary match (white to white, black to black, brown to brown) with that of your Subie's. When I did mine, I didn't match the color, instead, I read very carefully what each wire's signal is and did it accordingly when attaching/connecting the wires. It's not hard but tricky, so make sure to read carefully what each wire's signal is. Strip them and connect each correctly and you should be okay. I think your rough idling may be a incorrect wiring you did.
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Please read my original thread/story at: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18046 I think my tranny is really/finally going as it's getting worse. I thought I've fixed it as the above thread proclaimed. But like a cancer, just when you think it is contained, it fights back and you might end up losing the battle. The more questions I have are what seem to be the last resort without buying a new/used tranny. Are there any user replaceable o-rings inside the tranny? I know if it requires opening the tranny up, I'm not gonna do it as I have too limited knowledge on tranny. I remember seeing an o-ring on the long shaft (don't know what's called) that is plugged into the TC and goes in all the way into the tranny from the front, this o-ring is replaceable. The O-ring is close the end of this shaft. The question is: If this O-ring goes bad, could it cause what I've described throughout the above thread (particular the latter part after replacing the TCU)? Or could it cause the tranny not to have the pulling power it onced had? Thanks in advance, guys.
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Hi all again. This problem is getting worse. The clunking noise is getting worse/louder. Right now, if I hit a hole, bump, hump, the whole front end seems like it's coming out/separating. I tried to kick the wheels/tires when the front was jacked up, yet I could not duplicate the clanking noise. Must it be something only makes the noise when it's at ground level? I'm afraid the entire suspension might come off while driving at high speed and the car might be out of control. I have no $$$ to have it estimated either. Thanks for any clues.
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Lately, my speed gauge acts weird. When speeding up and the gauge gets to a certain speed, it will stay there until the vehicle actually goes like 10 speed faster then the gauge up move very quick to show the accurate speed. When slowing down, it does the same thing in the opposite way. It will wait until the vehicle is like 10 speed slower, then the gauge comes down very quick to show the accurate speed. What is doing this to the gauge? Second problem: While on a long trip, during a hill climb, the car suddenly shook a lot for about 10 second and so I let go of the gas a little then it went away and never showed again the rest of the trip. What could be causing this? Could it be just a fluke or what?
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Yeah, just get a used one from the junkyard and put it on. The hard work is when taking the dead one out and putting the working one in. You may need a bike jack, which makes it easier to drop down the bad one and to lift the good one up to install it. I heard there is a tranny jack, but have never seen it.
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Look just to right of the fuse box and up. It's located vertically there. But first, you have to take out the cover piece that covers the under part of the steering column that goes all the way across the entire section above where your knees would be. After you take out that cover piece, you should see the TCU box. There are two nuts holding the TCU to the chassic bolts. They use socket 10mm. Good luck!
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I went with Durablend (Valvoline) for cost issue due to me being broke at this time. The front diff. looks clean and not muddy at all. It's always that way. Am I seeing the wrong lubricant or what? The rear got dirty and muddy that was why I changed it. But on the dipstick on the front diff., the fluid looks clear, and light, not discoloration at all. Is this normal? Anyway, that means I now have Durablend (semi synthetic) in my rear diff. while the front diff. still has the full synthetic fluid. Would this cause any complication on the tranny? Thanks for the huge replies!
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Can we replace the gear lubricant in the front and rear differential like what the title says? I was draining my rear differential earlier and couldn't find 75W90 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant at Walmart but did find something in the form of 75W140 and I almost bought it to put in both differentials of my car but somehow I backed out from buying it due to uncertainty. Can someone please tell me if it is okay or not? Both say Gear Lubricant so why not?