jcniest5

The noise seems to be coming from the rear wheels/more so like at the bottom of the vehicle. I haven't tried it in a gear other than D. I shall try that tomorrow. Shouldn't it make clunking noise if it's either rear bearings? I know back in '04 or so, the right rear bearing went bad, it making clunking noise. I replaced it. Maybe now is the left rear bearing? Could it be the center bearing? I heard, though, the center bearing almost never goes bad. If someone could shed some lights into this, I would really, truly appreciate it.

Okay, just an update: I managed to finish this project in about six hours. The noise "emm...." continues, however. At least I got the correct diff for the tranny now, so I shouldn't have to worry about driving in FWD mode anymore. It wasn't as hard I thought. I did it without taking off the front member also. Just lowered the exhaust and the thing came tumbling down. This diff also has the top fill-hole/plug. The diff looks like it should still works. I saw no metal shaving in the fluid, almost as clear as when I put it in back in '05. I guess I can make some money off this diff if someone wants it. The AWD drives much better now. Thanks all!

It looks just like mine plus the additional fill hole at the top with a plastic plug/cover/lid. I just took some pictures but I don't know how to post them here. Edit: Oops, I lied. Here are the pictures...hope they are clear.

I shall take a picture of it before installing it. Not sure what vehicle it came from as the people at the junkyard took it off and just sold it to me. I never saw if it was an auto or manual. I know at least it come from a '94 model.

Since I still have my original TCU, I may switch back to it or continue to use the 92 TCU. Afterall, the tranny and rear differential are for the 92-94 year anyway...so it may work better for them. As far as FWD is concerned, I've read here many mixed opinions. Some say it won't hurt it. Others say it would. I've been driving it FWD for the past several years without any issue, so it's a toss-up. Once I have the correct ratio rear differential installed, I will take out the fuse to drive in AWD again.

Funny thing is even after I emptied out the dirty bottom fluid, the top still is full of fluid. This compartment (or whatever you call it) seems to be very small, though, and by itself, not connected to any others. The diff seems to turn smoothly by hand. Is it a good idea to use some kind of flush fluid to try to clean out the dirty fluid that still clings to the gear/teeth of the diff.? I was thinking of pouring a bottle of Engine Flush (those that used before changing oil) into the diff., close the plug, and and shake or spin it. Is there any danger to it? I want to clean it as thorough as possible before putting new fluid in. What do you think?

Okay, just got back from a wrecking yard and got my a 94 rear diff for the price $95.00. It has a plastic plug at the rear top. I unplugged it and the oil/lubricant inside is clear/clean, looks like it's not a part of the main oil. I wonder what that is for. I unscrewed the drain plug and the lubricant is thick and almost black and very little. Hope the diff is still good. It doesn't have any burnt smell to it, so that's good. Leaving it drain overnight to make sure all the old fluid is gone. Then gonna fill it with AMSoil Full Synthetic Gear Fluid. Will try to put it on next week some time. Hopefully it's not too cold to work on it outside. Or I might have to work on it at my brother's garage. Wish me success. Thanks...

Thanks for the linky. Exactly what I need to know and see when I do mine.

What's the different between the EJ20 and EJ22? That aside, does anyone know where I can find new EJ22 engine? Not that I'm going to get one, just curious on how much it costs.

Okay, I lied. I didn't go out of town to test the MPG for this aging Leggie. I went to the junkyard instead and got myself a MAF Sensor from a '92 Leggie. Also I got a MAP Sensor, which looks different than mine, but the connector is the same. Put both of them on and from driving to pick my kids at school, the car seems to be more responsive. Acceleration is quicker, seems to have a litle more pulling power, too. I'm gonna drive it for a few days and will post back. Thanks to all that reads this thread or offers inputs/hints/advice. Truly appreciate everything.

No, the noise doesn't go away whether it's in FWD or AWD mode. It's getting louder within the past few weeks or so, too. What I'm hoping for is that only the rear differential is needed and nothing else (assuming nothing breaks while I try to get it off).

Thanks. So that means I will need to find a '92 Auto rear differential. I hope I can make this work without having to buy a '91 tranny, which is a pain to install because of lack of time and a garage. Do you know if this "emmmm...." noise is coming from the rear differential wearing out or something?

Oops, dupe post...

No wonder I'm hearing a "emmm...." noise from under/rear of the car now. The noise sounds kind of like engine breaking (in 4x4 Low gear in true 4x4 SUV/Truck going down steep hill). The faster the car travels, the the louder it gets and the noise tends to go a little higher pitch in highway speed. I guess it's time to swap out the rear differential? So, tell me. To correct this problem, what do I need besides the rear differential? Do the rear right and left axles need to be replaced as well? How hard is it to accomplish this?

I am looking at the MAF sensor itself. It looks to be super clean, all shiny, not a build-up of any sort. Does anyone know the signal output of the terminals? The tech manual doesn't give any for the 90-94, just some earlier models. I see one that looks like mine, and I try to follow that, but it doesn't give any reading according to the tech manual. Here's what the tech manual says: 1) Unplug the MAF Sensor connector. 2) Measure the resistance between the MAF Sensor terminals and chassis ground (which, can't be done since this isn't grounded once unplugged!) 3) Terminals 1, 2 and 4 should have 1 mega-ohm of resistance to ground 4) Terminal 3 should have 0 Ohms to ground. Which one is 1, 2, 3, or 4? It has five terminals all together. Which one is the ground? According to a picture resembling mine but for the year 88-89, 1 is LgR=Burn off signal, 2 SA=Power supply, 3 and 4 is ground, and 5 is SA=Sonsor signal. What the heck are these? These can't correspeondent to the steps above. Can't be right... I'm very frustrated with this stupid tech manual.

The CTS was just replaced a few days ago. The oxygen sensor was replaced Tuesday. I haven't touch the MAF sensor yet. I could get one from a junkyard, would that work? Or does that present too many possibilities of getting a bad MAF? But wouldn't a bad MAF trigger Check Engine light to come on? Same for the OS2? Okay, okay, I will stop saying about gas gauge moving too fast. Hehhehhe...

What does this rear wheels locking up tell you (if anything)? Good thing I also got the TCU made for '92 and replacing the '91 TCU with the '92 version enable me to drive in AWD. With the '91 TCU and in AWD mode, it would completely lock the rear wheels to an undriveable point. It would drive okay in FWD mode with the '91 TCU. So, because of that I've been driving with the '92 TCU installed all this time. However, because of pulling hard to one side, I've been driving in FWD mode about 95% of the time.

Does anyone know if a Tranny made for '92 Leggie works properly on a '91 Leggie? Right now, I have a '92 Tranny on my '91 and it's acting weird. I posted about it back in '05 about the rear wheels locked when in AWD mode. Works okay in FWD mode. Been driving in FWD mode 90% of the time since then. Lately, though, when I accelerate really hard, the car pulls to the left. It pulls just a little when in FWD mode, but when it's in AWD, it pulls left really hard/bad. Not sure if I should look for a '91 Tranny to replace it or I should just drive it until it breaks. Need some advice...

From memory, I believe my tank only holds 12 gallons, not 15.9. Just an update: I replaced the OS2 today with an OEM type 3 BMD, which has the connector (without me having to hardwire like my last one, which I could have done it wrong). The gas gauge seems to move just as fast. I have yet to test the MAF. And no, the gas tank doesn't seem to leak. There is no smell of gas anywhere, although the exhaust seems to have a stronger (richer) smell. It has always been like that, though. I'm going on a long trip, so hopefully this will help me determine if there is anything wrong with my car or not. I seem to be chasing a ghost (like someone posted earlier).

As I found out on mine, it may be one of three things: 1) Speedometer Gauge (or the sensor) is bad. 2) Speedometer cable is bad/broke. 3) The gear driver (adapter) that drives the speedometer cable is bad. None of these should cost an arm or leg if you live near junkyards.

Per 12 gallons tank, around 200 now, used to get 300-350. And I've used different brand gas for the past two weeks or so, so it's not just a bad tank of gas. It's really the car's using more gas now...

I just put in 12 Gallons of gas in my car yesterday when the needle almost pointed directly at the E, so I know the gauge doesn't lie. I have yet to drive the car in a 100+ miles straight, but my guess is that someway, somehow, the car has been using gas much more than it did before the speedometer cable got pushed out and I was driving the car with Zero speed reading for a week or so. I'm driving out of town tomorrow (close to 200 miles each way) so I would know how it will behave then. My instinct tells me it may not be the plugs or wires, or fuel filter either. I believe if there is problem with these, they would only give my car a sluggish performance (ie: no power when accelerating, no power when climbing hill, etc...) As of right now, my car performs just fine, no sluggish acceleration and it has lots of power to climb any hill. I think it's gotta be one (or some kind) of sensors, something that tells the computer how to properly mix the fuel and air ratio. Oxygen sensor is on my list right now as the next item to replace, but like I said, I just replaced it not too long ago. Should I try it or not? Poor man's pocket is getting lighter.

How long does an oxygen sensor usually last? I think I replaced mine back in '04 or '05. I got an aftermarket one instead of an OEM, does that matter? I had to do some wiring as the aftermarket doesn't have the connector, just three wires, so I had to use the old connector/harness. Do you suppose I could done have the wiring wrong somehow? Wouldn't a bad oxygen sensor give out an ECU code (Check Engine light comes on)?

Just a thought. If when I pull out the plugs and they are still good/clean/no carbon build-up and with no odd sign of wear, is replacing them still necessary? I guess I'm trying to save some money, but I truly want to fix this poor gas mileage problem I'm having right now.

Is NGK's Iridium sparkplugs good? I think that's what I have right now, but I don't remember if it improve or decrease my MPG. I put them on back in '05, I believe. The wires, I went with Checkers Auto or some similar store's brand. I will call Subaru for the price tomorrow. Thanks again, guys.