jcniest5

Well, unfortunately, my gas gauge still moves as fast, so I think it's not the CTS. Not sure what to try next now. Should I try the Oxygen sensor or should I try plugs and wires?

Okay, I just replaced the CTS. Will drive to work (20 miles each way) and see how it goes. Will report back after work tonight. Thanks, guys!

Both the wires, plugs and fuel filters were replaced back in '05. Wouldn't think they need replacing this soon, do they?

Wasn't that hard once I figure out the proper way to do it. One of the bulbs was blown and I had to take off the whole cluster again a second time. It was a piece of cake the second time around. The way I did it, I unplugged the speedometer cable from the tranny first and I was able to pull the speedo cable and the cluster further out to insert the end into the back of the speedo gauge.

My actual mileage is 248,xxx. But since I replaced the speedometer gauge with one I got from a junkyard, it says 145,xxx on it now. I wonder if we are required to adjust the number to match the original mileage of the car or not? Do we?

Okay, if I will be doing my Wires and plugs, would you guys recommend OEM or aftermarket wires? I know I will be using either NGK or just any Platinum plugs, but not sure about wires yet. The last time I replaced my wires, I did it with aftermarket ones. Should I go for OEM this time? What's special about OEM (other than it being more expensive) vs. aftermarket anyway?

So far, the only item I've replaced is the Speedometer gauge. No sensor of any kind has been replaced yet. The one I will do tomorrow is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Not even sure if the store I called has it or just the regular Coolant Temperature Sensor for the gauge (and not for the computer-ECU).

I don't know the real/correct temperature by the AC's vent, but the ohms manage to reach 3.00 and going up. Just so confusing right now.

Okay, by reading the tech manual, I was able to unscrew out the sensor. I'm measuring its ohms according to the manual, but since I don't have a thermometer, I can't tell how hot or how cold the water I'm putting the sensor into. Just to isolate the problem, I think I'm just gonna replace it and see if it would make any difference. Update: I put it right next (actually stick it into) my AC's vent, which suppose to be around 65F and it's suppose to have a resistence of around 3 Ohms. It stays at 2.4 Ohms, so I'm assuming it's off by at least .6 Ohm. I just hope this is the culprit as poor man is running out of $$ to troubleshoot this car further.

Well, it has never done this before until very recently, so I determine it by comparing to how fast the gauge moves now vs. in the past. Also, a full tank of gas used to last 300+ miles. Now, it's like around 200. That tells me something is really wrong with the car.

Does anyone know how different they look from each other? I called an auto parts store and the man said there is only one showing for coolant temperature sensor/sender. Are they identical to each other?

Excuse my acrynym un-knowledge, but what is a CTS? From experience with my Grand Caravan, a leaky FI usually makes it hard to start, is it the same case for most (if not all) vehicles?

Just wondering...the guide says not to touch the gas throttle at all. I disconnected the battery overnight, but when I started the car, I push on the gas pedal, did I do something wrong by gasing on it? And by doing that, it didn't reset everything?

Thanks for the joke! Hehhehehe....

Awhile back, I replaced my 'then' worn-out brakes with some "Silver" class brakes and they would always squeak no matter what I did. I finally got fed up with them and replaced them with some "Gold" class from Bendix and the squeak stopped. No noise has been heard since. Low quality (cheap) brakes have the tendency to squeak. If yours squeak, it could be a sign that they are cheap brakes.

Where about CA do you live? Used to live in Sacramento, on O'Donnell Ave. (or is it Street, forgot), where I first bought my '91 Leggy for $200.00. It had 148,xxx miles at that time. It's now 248,xxx.

Can't see Notes or Tips.

Looks and sounds like you hit the curb a little with your front end.

Eventually, I will do them. And no, I didn't check the code. I disconnected the battery last night so the code was cleared. Does AutoZone have a code reader for the older (ODB1) connector? Most shops/stores just have ODB2 reader.

Update: Okay, so I was tired of waiting for the new part to arrive at the dealer, I unscrewed out the adapter and I guess because of carbon/dust/sludge build-up inside the rectangle hole that the speedometer cable inserted into, the cable came out and wouldn't go back in. I forced it in a few times and then it went in smoothly afterward. I put everything back together and now my speed is working, but I continue to get terrible gas mileage. Last night, I took out the battery so the ECU resets itself, this morning, I continue to get very poor gas mileage. Does anyone have any more ideas where I should start checking on this culprit? I mean I could almost literally see the gas gauge moves! It's like the car is literally leaking somewhere, but no, there is no leaks anywhere.

Just an update: The new (used) ABS Sensor fixed my problem. Thanks for all inputs.

It's the first, not the latter. If it's the latter, it will require taking out the tranny to service it or might as well replace the whole tranny.

The vehicle itself has 248K miles on it. But I just bought the tranny used back in '05, so don't know how many miles it has. Before that, the 'then' tranny was actiing weird, but if I was smart, I could have just adjusted the Brake Band. I could swear it's just that because when I was replacing it, I could feel the Brake Band screw was really loose, it could turn by hand. According to a tech manual I read, it's suppose to be tight (@ 18 lbs).

It looks to be the adapter or the gear driver that screws right onto the tranny. Going to try a new one next (when it arrives).

Well, I replaced the Speedometer gauge with a used one (assume good) and it's still doing the same thing, remains zero MPH when driving. The Check Engine light went out a few minutes after driving, though, and it remains off. I'm going for the gear driver next (or adapter - whatever it is called). Had it ordered and should be here within a week if not sooner.