jcniest5

If it's the starter, it usually doesn't click at all when you try to start it. If it clicks then stops each time you start, it may be the starter solenoid. If you just hear clicks but can't crank, it's low battery.

One thing I've found why it is harder to take off the nut while the car is on the ground. The reason? Well, when the car is sitting on the ground, the weigh of the vehicle adds to the pressure of the nut and bearing, so it would take much more work to make it come off. I work as an auto mechanic and I tried that on my own car. I even used a 1000 lbs impact gun on it and it still didn't bulge. As soon as I lifted the vehicle off the ground, I didn't even use a 1000 lbs impact gun, just a 500 lbs gun and it came right off easily. You may not realize how much pressure is added to the axle nut when the car is sitting on ground, but it's a lot. I found it out by doing an actual experiment on my own car. The only problem is for those that don't have impact gun, it's going to be tough no matter what. But for those that have tried impact gun without success while the car is on the ground, lift the car (or just that particular wheel/side) and it will be so much easier. Hope this helps someone save a breaker bar or two, not to mention some harms that may cause oneself as a result of breaking something.

Thanks for the warning. I was working on it a few weeks back and I managed to get it out without hurting myself. The procedure is very treacherous, though. Once you pull out the motor, the glass and rails came down and it took me awhile to figure out how to aligh them up and put them together. It should be smoother as I think I know how to do it now.

Like I said earlier, synthetic oil + motorvac, that should give you close to the 20% you are hoping to get.

That will greatly be appreciated. Let me know where to send the payment. Thanks again!

If you want to improve gas mileage, use synthetic oil and do a motorvac. I gain 4MPG from using synthetic oil. I was getting 25 MPG when using regular oil, now I get around 29-30 MPG with synthetic oil. I haven't tried motorvac, but I heard it's great for improving gas mileage as well.

Hi, recently, my power window (driver/front) quited working. Now, there is a grinding noise each time I press the button (up or down). I have determined the problem to be the motor itself. Someone also pointed out that it could be the regulator, but not sure about that. Does anyone here know of a good place to get one? I've searched far and wide to no availability (cheap). I could order one from a dealer for $150, but no thanks due to limited financial issue...If anyone here has one to spare for a good price, please do let me know. TIA...

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm gonna change it within the next ten days or so. It's nearing 4500 miles, so I think it's a good time to do it. Thanks again!

If this has already been posted somewhere, would someone plz point me to it. My question is how often do I change my oil when it is synthetic oil? Someone said every 10K miles, others have said every 6K miles, which is correct? TIA

I've disabled the rear wheel (put it in FWD only - inserted the fuse) and so far it's working nicely for the past two months or so. Hope nothing is wrong with a long term (or even permanent) FWD operation, is there?

First, no, I didn't have that procedure done on the AC recharging. Neither did I do it the first time (7/01). It did work from 7/01 to 6/05, though. What to do next? I guess I will have my friend look at his coolant to see if there is any bubbles or some foreigh liquid. Or any line blockage sign anywhere.

It could be the front oil seal. Ooo...you have to take out the main crank nut to have access to it. Taking out the seal is a pain as well. Basically, remove the radiator, the crankshaft nut (a pain also), the timing belt cover, then you will see where it leaks (if not the front oil seal).

This post has two parts. I don't know what is wrong with my AC. I've converted it to the newer type R134A from the R12A back in 7/01. It was working wonderfully until a few months ago. It started to blow not as cold air as before. I thought the refrigerant has ran out, I checked and it's still full. I even emptied the whole thing out and added new refrigerant, but still blows the same warmer air. (It's just a bit cooler than the outside air so it's working somewhat). It was way colder before. Is the compressor going out? I feel the Low side hose when AC is turned on, it gets a little cold, but not super cold like I used to feel it before. What could be the problem here? Second part is really for a friend of mine. His Subie is overheating (same year as mine, but a wagan, not sedan). He replaced the thermostat and installed new radiator, but still the same problem. He said when it overheats, there is no heat (blows cold air even when you set it to warm as in the winter). What could be the problem here? Thanks in advance, guys.

Never mind, just found out that the door hinges are rusty as the car is basically a one-person vehicle so virtually no one sits on the passenger side so the door was virtually left unused for months. Just spray some WD40 on the hinges hopefully they will swing out easier. Thanks for reading!

Lately, opening and closing my right door requires a lot of push or pull (strenght). I know it's not the handle, it's something inside the door, the rail/arm or thing that slides in or out when open the door, it's getting rusty or something, it has never been this hard in the beginning. I tried oiling the sliding rail/arm awhile back but no help. Do I need to actually open the door up and see what's wrong with it? Any lead will greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance...

Well, just done replacing my conventional ATF with that of AMSOIL, so far, haven't notice any difference yet (as it is too soon). I will report back in three months on how it's doing as I'm relocating to the East.

Well, went and bought 2 qts of Gear Oil and 10 qts of ATF for my tranny. Was gonna change it tonight but too tired after work. Dang, the ATF is expensive, $71.99 for the 10 qts bottle. The individual quart bottle is even more expensive ($7.99/qt). So, I saved $8.00 by buying the 10 qts bottle. I hope it'll make a difference as I spent $72.00 (AMSOIL Synthetic) vs. roughly $20.00 for conventional fluid.

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I have concluded that I will get the Synthetic ATF for my tranny and change the screen/filter as a complete maintenance. Afterall, this is a new used tranny that I just put in, so I want to take good care of it from the start and see how long it would last. The last one I put on lasted only 4 years (7/01-7/05). Wow, that's a coincident, same month! Wouldn't you say so?

I was looking at some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF at FleetFarm and was about to buy 9 qts, but after looking at my wallet, decided not to buy them until benefit is firmly established.

Is it just a rip-off or does it really make a difference in term of performance, fuel economy (saves gas) and all the claims they put out there? Need help as I'm going to waste another $50.00 to get about 10 qts. of Synthetic ATF Fluid for my tranny. Want to know I'm not just wasting money for nothing... Thanks in advance...

If you look around the engine, you should find it somewhere. Good luck!

Not sure about yours, but on the Legacy, it's on the left side of the engine, down below the intake manifold (the big airhose), behind where the tranny is connected to the engine. If you look there, you should see it bolted to the engine.

Update: Put in a new Tranny computer and the tranny is working okay now. With the old computer, if I put in the fuse and disable the rear wheel drive and make it FWD, it works okay also. Also, just wondering if the two letters after the tranny number makes any difference. The old tranny has a JS and the new one has MH. Do these letter signify anything?

Hi all. Long time no post. Just put in a new/used tranny, now my right/rear wheel locked when driven, what could be the problem? Wrong tranny? My old tranny has TZ102ZA1AA, the new one has TZ102ZA2AA. The only difference between the two is the 2 (new) vs. 1 (my old one). However, that number, according to a guide posted here or somewhere in a link is just to typify the year. Could it be that the gear ratio is different, which doesn't seem to be the case as the 102 typifies the gear ratio (also according to a guide). If anyone at all can direct me to the correct solution, I will appreciate him/her so much. I just finished putting it together and it's so much work putting into it already, if it's not fixable, then I guess I will just junk the whole car as I'm running out of patience. Thank you so very much in advance...

It's not on the tranny. It's accessibled from inside your vehicle, right below your shift lever.