1 Lucky Texan
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Posts posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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seems unlikely at low miles, but a bad knock sensor can keep timing retarded and kill performance. Might be the only sensor that doesn't need to be OEM. most folks report $25 units work fine if you don't overtorque them and make sure to route the cable from them in the same orietation.
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that diesel is short enough?
there were some Subaru diesel crate engines available at one time, or source a used one from overseas?
back in the 70s, folks were putting Kubota diesels in some small cars.......
or maybe a Mazda wankel ?
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you might try 'popping' the clutch pedal 2-3 times next time it fails. maybe the safety switch on it is failing. Or the one on the brake pedal?
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That spare has got to go.
otherwise, it's awesome. Hip spoiler could look good....
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Denso or OEM (same?) is preferred for sensors. Folks sometimes report problems with aftermarket including Bosch.
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^^^ what he said - plus, the filler neck behind the plastic shield gets rusted-out holes.
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one very long shot - I once read of someone that had intermittent problems when turning, they found a wire harness section routed near the steering u-joint was abraded and shorting out.
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In the past, I've had spurious codes set, often with no driveability problems, on 2 different vehicles - that came down to weak/old/damaged batteries.
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I don't think so. The H6es get ECU control of the alt.
best bet, find a local rebuilder and have your original alt. rebuilt. unless of course, it was already given up as a core. car may be down a few days.
or
check into parts from DB electric or Maniac motors(?) in Texas.
even an alt from a wrecking yard (must be H6) is preferred over any alt from typical parts retailer .
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leak down test should tell you right?
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needs a 'Wagon Mafia' sticker
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exhaust system leak?
a:f problem?
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does the noise get increasingly aggressive-sounding with increased rpm, or, does it kinda come-and-go ?
if the latter, might be a weak tensioner.
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our old 2003 had a an angle/elbow that leaked. Felt sticky and fragile? easy repair with some kinda vacuum line assortment kit from VatoZone w'ever.
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can the valve stem be ground down, then bucket put back on?
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did you scan for pending codes?
I think it's DBW so, I suppose the gas pedal is suspect, the early ones sometimes caused problems.
kinda odd...
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check level in the RADIATOR until this is resolved. The o'flow bottle is not a reliable indicator of coolant volume.
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possible air entrainment issue. May need new o-ring(s) on the suction hose adapter on top of the pump. very common issue.
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look for walmart (supertech ?) synthetic BLEND . Some folks say it's great for the money, and evidently the synchros still play nice with it.
The cocktail is pricey/fiddly to put together though it does work for most folks.
gd is fond of amsoil severe gear. That 's what my shop put in my trans but I don't like it as much as straight Redline shockproof. that's also pricey.
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stiffer springs gets you; less roll, less squat, less dive. Given the age of the vehicle, if springs/struts are original, certainly start there.
many other bushings are like worn too.
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our moderately loaded (3 adults, a little luggage) '03 H6 would begin to overheat when we were going up grades in Nevada heat - 114-117 degrees indicated by the car's therm.
I just backed off on the speed. wish I had experimented with downshifting to 3rd.
I guess it's just near the limit.
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any chance this compressor can be found on some Nissan or Mazda or ???
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on 2 cars, only have had o-rings and hoses actually fail.
maybe hoses last longer in cooler climates?
1992 Legacy loss of power at the pedal
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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5spd? maybe time for a clutch...