1 Lucky Texan

did the car run better after the reset? I ask because, a reset forces the car to use the default 'map' and ignore a:f sensors for a coupla drive cycles. If the car showed NO improvement, that might point to a mechanical issue; blocked exhaust, dropped valves, skipped timing, or ????

look near your left knee - that's where they are on my soobs. low at the edge of the knee panel, recessed a little.

yeah, they sometimes call it the dogbone. supposed to direct the engine down (or body up?) in a severe front impact.

may need to scan the ecu for freezeframe data or better, live data. If you have a smartphone, an elm327 bluetooth adapter and an app can do that. I suppose slipped timing might lead to pinging so, confirm cam timing. was the old knock sensor cracked or decrepit in any way? what was the source for the present sensor?

how's the H6 ?

micky - did you get an alternator?

any advance on this? maybe the pitch stopper has a bad bushing?

any progress?

still have starting problems?

has the car been driving OK?

any success finding the problem?

kimbalo - did you get the car fixed?

start a new thread with a shop request - it will be seen by more people. I did a quick look, folks really like East Granby repair for their soobs, but, looks like you are far from there. Near Norwalk, Accurate Auto has a great reputation, seems like they stay busy so, maybe difficult to get an appointment??? If you or your sister have a smartphone, an elm327 bluetooth adapter should allow you to use Torque Lite app and read CEL codes and live data. like this; https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1508503657&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=subaru+veepeak

hmmm....so many things could cause power loss. If maintenance has been poor - catch up on that first. Then, scan for codes I guess. knock sensor can kill performance, clogged exhaust, many other things.

maybe it's like this? www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRxxkRQO4nU

well, good mechanics do, they have guidelines for determining if signals from various sensors are within expected ranges and they can look at live data from the car. For instance, if ambient temps are 50-60* overnight, there;s no way the temp sensor should be signaling the ECU that temp is 170* or w'ever first thing in the morning. The car may start, but it may not run well until it DOES warm-up to 170* or w'ever. but, we're not there with the car, and it may be tricky to leave the car overnight, plus minimum charges for diagnostics, blah, blah you SHOULD be able to find a shop that can troubleshoot the issues with the car. I'm just throwing out 1 idea - I could easily be wrong. in a new thread, you could post your sister's city asking for a recommendation. maybe someone knows a good indie mech. nearby.

not sure on a '96 if you have 1 or 2 temp sensors, if 2, the sensor with 2 wires 'could' be bad. newer models use one sensor with a 3 pin connector. Live Data would help narrow that down I think. just guessing right now. the sensor is on the cooling crossover on top of the engine. here's a '95 DIY; http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47&Itemid=63 I also found this; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/10207-location-coolant-temperature-sensor-96-outback-2-2l.html

engine temp sensor may be bad - it's supposed to let the ECU know the engine is cold so it 'chokes' it with xtra fuel. what codes specifically? someone here may be able to make sense of them.

kinda sounds like bad spark plug wires. if they are moist, it takes a while for engine temps to dry them out.

oops - I guess I was think about cam pulleys or something. some folks HAVE had to thread those holes to pull the pulley off I think.

doh - confused

when I shopped it, new OEM was more expensive.

not uncommon but, usually older cars. there are replacements available, OEM can be pricey - or get a lightweight pulley like Perrin makes.

I don't pretend to understand all of it, I was shown that phenomenon by a gemologist once, to help with orienting topaz for faceting (it has one cleavage plane that causes it to polarize light going thru it, very difficult to polish parallel with the cleavage plane so, we try to avoid it) but, I never thought to ask WHY it it get brighter. as you say, how does light speed back up when it exits a diamond or other substance with high RI ? head asplode

mostly off topic but - so weird!