1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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the axles are interchageable form left to right so, they should look 'almost' the same. Some aftermarkets look a little different at the inner cup - but not much different. You can look at pics at rockauto or amazon or do a google image search. sounds like you got some oddball axle. maybe it was mis-stocked or ???? -
my 06 WRX is like that unless I feed-in an xtra 1/4" of go pedal. it was worse right after I first got it, a little better after finding the right seat position. When you are maneuvering to park, in a tight turn, do you feel bucking/jerking? could you do tight circles on dry pavement smoothly when warmed-up? How about if stone cold?
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triple check the hose from the IACV under the intake tubing.
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on some cars, the ABS light will come on if the charging system/battery are having a problem. you might check voltages or have that system tested.
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^^^ good points, in addition, some of those axles were slapped onto a car right before it was flipped to a new owner - then, if they suffer excessive vibration or a failure, the supplier will never learn about it. it's like 'economy' brake pads and 'economy' windshield wipers, etc. Stuff that folks buy to slap on a car they're getting rid of - not the one they keep for a daily driver.
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www.car-part.com , might get you a used OEM axle with the green cup inner joint, for $40 or so.
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an intermediate approach might be to take the knuckle and new parts to an auto machine shop and pay them to swap stuff into the knuckle. scribe/mark the 12 o'clock position on the camber botl and alignment will be back like it was.
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aftermarket axles are notoriously poor products, a real gamble. Also, suppose the sold you an Impreza axle ?
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check craigs list for someone parting-out a wreck? post a WTB in this Forum and maybe over at www.subaruoutback.org for an engine? you niece should network with close relatives and friends - maybe someone does some wrenching and could help her out?
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tried it a coupla times with imageshack - didn't seem to work plus , I get this warning banner: You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community.
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is there a way to search for broken p'ket links? or imageshack for that matter - I may try it with i'shack
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bad rear bushing on lower control arm could be quite loud.
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200K IS a lot of miles, compression test could save you time and money if bad - GenDis is a pro mechanic. if codes come back 1&2 or 3&4 - suspect coilpack , 'waste spark' ign. means cylinders share a coil. if they come should show 1&3 or 2&4, could be slipped timing though that is rare.
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plugs should be NGK - the cars can be picky about that. original plug wires could be bad - they also should be OEM. soobs will leak oil from bad valve cover gaskets on the plug wire boots causing misfires. have you scanned for pending codes? if your State inspection doesn't care, you can operate car-free with probably only a benign P0420 code.
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if it's the original alt, and you can do without the car for a few days, find a local rebuilder to rebuild your alternator, it will be much better than typical parts store alternator.
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on some older soobs, wasn't in a little fuse holder near the right side shock tower? I just dunno what year it began being in the big fuse box.
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checked the fluid while idling right? ATF is the only fluid you must check that way. brake lines can leak on top of the fuel tank, watch your brake fluid level. when soobs have been thru 2-3 owners or serviced by 'underqualified' people, sometimes fluids get confused and the wrong fluids drained/filled etc. best to start fresh with fluids if possible, then troubleshoot issues I think.
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^^^^ great post
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kinda odd symptoms but, what fair said ^^^^^ fits quite well. could there have been a situation where she started the car, turned it off , then fairly soon tried a to re-start it? That could flood the car., prevent starting, and smell like fuel. Holding the gas pedal down on the floor while cranking is the clear flood signal for the car's computer - you could try that. but the prvious overheating event sounds severe - could be lubrication was compromised leading to excessive wear and that could have led to the current issue.
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have you checked trans fluid level? ATF is the only fluid you must check while idling. any CEL? you might scan for pending codes.
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really- I've made a small atempt to try to see it. I also wonder if folks that are good at orienting themselves/identifying compass directions (good 'sense of direction') can use this subconsciously ? (I play a funtrivia.com game everyday and have submitted a few questions, a Haidinger's Brush ques. is one of my submissions)
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what are your local laws for abandoned vehicles? anyway, seems like parting it out or junking it might be best.
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I'm not clicking that
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Any bucking/jerking in tight parking maneuvers, or tight circles on dry pavement?
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another weird polarized light subject; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haidinger%27s_brush
