1 Lucky Texan

if the car has replacement...; lug studs, lug nuts or wheels - there's the possibility the nuts are 'bottoming out' before proper clamping force is achieved. I'd consider having her stop by a Discount Tire and have them inspect everything.

when warmed-up, will the car buck/jerk in tight circles on dry pavement? OK turning sharp when stone cold, popping or binding/jerking in sharp turns when warmed-up is 99% gonna be the transmission's center differential. mismatched tires, very odd carrier bearing, wheel bearing or u-joint failure should be ruled-out but, sounds like the trans.

a month or so might also be time for a poorly tightened wire to vibrate loose...double check alt and battery connections.

video not seen look inside the reservoir for bubbles - you may have air being sucked-in. very common problem

abs is very sensitive to voltage - I agree with starting with the alternator.

could be knock sensor - cheap/easy to swap sometimes a failing cat conv will clog the exhaust

any chance of wiring damage from rodents or pinched by some work that was done?

any indication the timing system had been opened-up before?

pull the covers and check cam timing.

bad knock sensor could be pulling ignition advance ?

ferret - I'd be interested in your experience with the GMB parts - kinda worried about them on my WRX.

what about bees in your intercooler? "Uh no sir, I assure you it isn't the heat shields buzzing."

was the canister flooded or was it the valve?

coupla things to try, when you feel it will fail, or immediately after a failure - hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting. Don't pump it or lift until after it starts. that is the 'clear flood' condition for the ECU. if you think it's fuel startved, try spraying some starter fluid in the intake. also, some older soobs have had crank position sensors fail when hot.

if you ask at the Forester forum and over at subaruoutback.org , maybe someone has tried them, but, as you say, they seem new-ish. looks like there's a $70 rebate on any set of Continentals right now.

any oil on the plug wire boots? any differences in the weather conditions when it starts vs when it doesn't ? have you tried starting it with etherstart/starting fluid? could it be flooded now? are the plugs wet with fuel? (if so, hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank , that's the ECU's 'clear flood' procedure) is the IACV hose disconnected from under the intake tubing?

no, those and any green disconnected wires are for diagnostic use only. leave disconnected for normal driving.

18 reviews at TireRack - all but one seem positive after quick glance. I THINK 2 subarus were wearing them.

many parts stores can test alternators/charging circuits. consider a used Subaru alternator from a junkyard - many rebuilts have a poor reputation. Or, locate a local rebuilder and have yours rebuilt.

it's cool, I could have waited longer before posting but his original post went several hours with no response at all, not common here. likely not agressive enough for regular off/soft road use, but the Pirelli Cinturato P7s on our OBW are great - helped get us home from CoSpgs in winter storm 'Ursa' , we were the pilot car leading almost a dozen others off a closed road between Capulin and Clayton NM. hope others reply

nvrmd

maybe you cracked the pump in the trans when you re-installed the engine? it happens frequently.

lock-unlock with the fob a coupla times. or, cycle the ignition on/off 3 times quickly

there may be part numbers or dimensions in this thread;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

yeah, I just eyeballed it, 1.8 or 2mm thick i think. Some size that required the minimal amount of stretching without being 'saggy' . so far so good. try to get some oil on your little finger to wipe on the new ring and gently wiggle/twist as you insert the hose adapter.