1 Lucky Texan

you might check-out www.nasioc.com for swap info, but there could still be some differences as mentioned above due to US vs European market models.

if you're otherwise happy with the car and it seems reliable, suits your future needs, etc. , consider dropping a used engine in it. check car-part.com, maybe LKQ

manual? might tow better with all 4 down (speed and distance limitations?) automatic could be even worse than engine in depending on what had to be disconnected.

just got struts for my WRX. got 'em from amazon - $66 each. upgraded my mounts (one's rubber was cracked severely) to group-n from an ebay seller. just moved bump stop and boots over as they seemed OK. good time to reboot any split inner joint boots on the axle.

nvrmd

the 'top' side of both my old stockers and the new Group-N had no seal so, getting grease into them would have been easy - maybe I should have popped the cap and greased them every coupla years? Anyway, I certainly feel they should have lasted longer.

can you perform slow (idle or just above) tight circles on dry pavement with no noise or bucking/jerking?

I did mine because one side had a crack about 40% of the way around the rubber, HOWEVER, both of them had very rough/crunchy feeling bearings. under 70K miles on my car (but almost all surface streets) nothing wrong with leaving them in if the bearings feel OK - but check them - easy enough to pull and swap during the procedure.

paging @GeneralDisorder he's in Portland - well,'A' portland - http://superiorsoobie.com/

automatic? you could try using the FWD fuse under the hood. check you manual for spare tire use. are all 4 tires the same? (model/brand and size?)

^^^ excellent post if it didn't stall before landing at some weird position, could have run oil-starved, or become over-heated.

does the exhaust smell sweet-ish? maple syrup or toasted marshmallows? could be coolant - don't trust the overflow bottle's level, check the radiator. that code is unfamiliar to me but doesn't seem trivial - hope I'm wrong, more experienced folks will respond I'm sure.

front struts for my WRX a few weeks ago - $67 each. group N mounts were more than 'stock' but, maybe $220 total? Outback stuff might not be much different? struts from Amazon, mounts from ebay - rented strut spring compressor from VatoZone - $Zero I'm slow at car work - still, only took about half a Saturday. and aftermarket KYB for soobs are 15% stiffer than NEW OEM - so, if you avoid jy struts, car will feel MUCH more 'planted'.

if all the bolts and clips are in place - don't worry about it, UNLESS you plan to actually be offroad a lot, then, GD's suggestion is the way to go.

WRX with an auto would be VERY uncommon. close to 'rare'.

you can search but, axles are a HUGE problem for people, the further you deviate from OEM/new, the more questionable/risky. worst is typical parts store rebuilds. new aftermarket is a coin toss (at present, good luck from new FEQ brand on my WRX) MANY people do great with used OEM from junkyards - might be a good idea to reboot the inner joint - about $20 r so and some time.

wow - didn't know that, cool!

most common issue as mentioned above, loose due to low torque when replaced after TB system service. known but less common is as said above also, it's a 2-piece pulley and the rubber between sections can degrade. either way, it should be addressed. new OEM are kinda pricey, consider a Perrin aftermarket lightweight pulley if yours is bad.

another concern based on your findings - suppose someone got confused draining/filling fluids and the diff is dry or ?????

try whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4 - if that reliably makes it start, worn contacts/plunger in the solenoid are suspect.

here, the a/c system leaks respond well to replacement of 2 o-rings at the compressor - easy. Some folks replace those 2, and the Schrader valves. Charge with the volume listed on the label underhood. I have had to do this too both my 03 and my 06 - holding charge well now. You CAN of course , make the repairs,evacuate (I rented a vac pump from a parts store) to both check for leaks and remove moisture, then charge. You can also charge with one can of refrigerant with a UV dye so future leaking is easier to locate. read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html?highlight=diy+a%2Fc+valve+o-ring hopefully someone with more experience will respond and address your other question as well.

if it sucked in the coolant now, it may very well point to a problem with the heater core ,or one of its hose connections, allowing air into the system on cooling in the past.

watch coolant level in the RADIATOR while working on this problem - don't trust the level in the overflow bottle.

25 year-old thermostat might be getting sticky radiator might be partially clogged....who knows without testing/examination? start with the easy/cheap stuff and work your way up no streams of bubbles is a GOOD sign but, don't drive it when it's overheating - that's a recipe for destroying headgaskets for sure as a test, you can also run with the t'stat removed

test thermostat on stove top for smooth operation? does the 'smoke' smell sweet-ish, like coolant? you can have the cooling system pressure tested, that might show source of a leak.