1 Lucky Texan

You are getting some kinda numeric 'echo' with your reader. Look at the last two digits in those last 3 numbers. They are bogus. Some code readers - even if listed as OBD II - won't REALLY work with all OBD II cars. I THINK Subies have to be read with one that is ISO compliant. (there are IIRC 4 protocols) What reader do you have? Could you get to an Autozone and have them confirm the codes? I dunno Carl

wow! I don't recall how many miles were on your car but the front O2 could easily be shot. Just go through them 1 or 2 at a time, be sure to reset the ECU after any repair/sensor change, and confirm it does NOT come back. Might be a good idea to just try one cheap/easy one first. Also, double check the alt. and battery. good luck Carl

Personally, before I tackled anything on that list, I would clean, disconnect/reconnect and generally tighten up ALL the grounds and connectors I could easily reach. Clear the codes. Then deal with the ones that came back. I'd be surprised if more than one or 2 of those actually indicate a bad part. Not impossible, just unlikely. Yet almost all of them could be thrown if the general electrical system is poor. Carl

As I recall, you compressed the tensioner pretty quickly. I think they can be damaged that way. maybe a new tensioner is in order just to be safe? Carl

Does it drift over and you have to correct it back or can you feel a tug in the wheel when it happens? (I'm not sure even why I'm asking other than loose/worn out steering parts might allow drifting. A pump or rack problem , or AWD/front diff problem might cause a 'pulling' in the steering wheel more) Carl

Lots of aftermarket tuner shops have upgrades for the shifter. Kartboy seems to have good value and a good reputation. The deal with the lube is you WANT a little friction to spin up the synchros I think. It may take a coupla tries to find a lube that works well for you but Redline gets mentioned a lot. take a look at http://www.subarureview.com for shifter ratings and stuff. Carl

whoa - a zombie thread. ;^) Carl

Even though it was replaced, seems like the starter (solenoid?) is going out. Keep a chunk of 2x4 or a bat with you and the next time it fails, whack the starter 2-3 times 'medium hard' and then try starting it. Not uncommon to get poorly rebuilt parts. I suppose it could be some kind of poor ground or still a bad switch/relay in the starting circuit. Does any amount of whacking on the ignition switch area seem to help? I dunno Carl Carl

Whoa! You lucked out! If the belt had burned through rubbing across that pulley......... well, you probably would've had a demonstration of the phrase - 'catastrophic failure'. Carl

Well, that SOUNDS tricky all right! I've read that one must close it VVEERRRRRRYY slowly or the seals/whatever will be destroyed. I dunno how one would test it though. Carl

How did you compress the tensioner last time? It can be tricky. (congrats by the way on finding the problem - I woulda given up long ago I think!) Carl

Some people have a relay buzzing and intermittent ABS. I THINK also that system is very sensitive to low voltage from the alternator and is the first system to display odd behavior if one/some rectifiers burnout in the alt. carl

Would that affect compression enough for a comp. test to be diagnostic? Also, if the ECU were inhibiting starting, I bet the injectors would be disabled too - so plugs, cylinders would be dry. I'm so lost (in addition to ignorant) I don't remember if the car gets fuel sprayed in it. I dunno Carl

I dunno, I'd think you'd get a CEL. I THINK if the cam and crank sensors disagree it may not start in order to protect valves - maybe. I dunno if the ECU kills all the ignitor signals. I dunno Carl

I've read it can be easy to damage the tensioner (certain models?) and maybe it allowed for the belt to jump time? Isn't there also a common area where a belt with too much movement will rub/wear? I dunno Carl

I dunno about on a '95, but an ohmmeter can destroy some O2 sensors. The others are likely safe - someone else will comment I hope. Carl

maybe a drum brake conversion? hahaha! Carl

might be worth inspecting inside every connector likely to have been disturbed during all the work for a bent pin or melted connections. I dunno Carl

Just a reminder to take your resistance measurements with the lead polarity in both directions. pin 1 red, pin 2 black - then reverse the leads. On may ECU or other 'solid state' items it will make a difference due to diode effects. good luck Carl

In addition to suggestions here, you might enjoy looking around at http://www.tirerack.com . I have done busines with them and was pleased - but that was rims with tires mounted. I have 'heard' that local tire chains will sometimes match prices with tirerack. good luck Carl

here's similar link. seems to point to a bent pin in a harness connector - I dunno http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42239&highlight=neutral+safety+cylinders Carl

I've heard clicking from the IACV on a different car when the throttle is opened. Maybe normal? Carl

Well, we COULD be wrong. lol! Plus, if swapping tires does alleviate the problem, doesn't mean you're still not driving on a time bomb. Blowouts are no fun. enjoy the vacation! Carl

Well, we COULD be wrong. lol! Plus, if swapping tires does alleviate the problem, doesn't mean you're still not driving on a time bomb. Blowouts are no fun. enjoy the vacation! Carl

Something seems familiar about this problem. Does anyone else recall any threads where only 1/2 the cylinders were trying to fire? that's the part that seems like I've read it before - quite a while ago. Anyone good at advance searching? I dunno way to hang in there though! Carl