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Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
I had my muffler on the bench, I was renewing the short piece of pipe I use to connect the muffler to the pipe from the resonator (ever since the muffler/pipe flanges disintegrated). The muffler was upside down on my tool cart and water started coming out of the bypass valve cover. The cover has been coming off for years and I have been ignoring it, but if water can come out an exhaust leak can't be far behind. I have been fully confident the valve has been stuck shut for years, if not since I bought the car. Recently I put softer springs from the ex pipe to the frame (pulling the exhaust against the converter donut since the bolt flanges disintegrated) to help the donut last longer, and when gunning it the pipe was forced back! A lot of back pressure. I didn't realize when you took the cover off it gives access to the shaft and spring, but you cannot remove the valve. Anyway the metal around where the cover bolts on was paper thin, so I just chiseled around the metal frame of the valve mechanism and then cut the metal frame with the die grander, and removed the entire valve. I cut a piece of 16ga mild steel to fit the over the opening and brazed it on (amazing how good a treadle shear can cut outside curves). Definitely revs up cleaner, starting at 4k or so. No longer sounds strained above 5k. No longer seems to creep from 5.5 k to redline. BTW I had driven over 20 miles in temps over 50 degrees, and the bypass part of the muffler had a good bit of water in it. Exhaust finds it way in there and the water condenses out, apparently even after everything is well warmed up.
Has anyone figured out how to modify the Outback 2013 Fitjusi-Ten nav system so that all functions will operate when the vehicle is in motion? I believe the model number may be: AVN827GA.