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Found 9 results

  1. Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.
  2. 95 Legacy Lsi with 202,000 miles Cooling fans don't come on at all ever. As long as I'm moving air through the radiator (normal driving) there is no problem. I overheat in stop and go summer traffic. Turning the heater on high dissipates the heat somewhat...OEM stat I previously function tested the fans by jumpering from the battery, both worked. Same with the 4 underhood fusebox relays. I plugged the green wires into ECM Test mode and only got the a/c clutch to cycle in and out. No fans. The other day, the a/c clutch kicked in for 20 seconds with the a/c off and defroster on high heat. P0115 error, clears but comes back after awhile. Please, I don't want to hear about hg's,There did seem to be bubbles in the radiator but even if that is the case, as stupid as it may sound, I want to drive that motor until it won't go any further. I just want to know how to make my fan(s) fire short of robbing a powered lead from somewhere.
  3. Hello Subaru brethren. I have a major problem that needs attention. One week ago I tried to change the clutch. After finding that the clutch set was the wrong size, I cleaned of the old set with brake cleaner and put it back together. I lost a clutch fork clip so I rigged utility wire around the bearing to keep it together. When I started it up, It gets to the point on the temp gauge where the fans should kick on. It waits awhile staying the same temperature, but when the fans come on the temp gauge skyrockets almost to red. While driving the temp gauge gets all the way to red. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat (and gasket), radiator (and cap), engine temp sending unit, rad temp sending unit, and rad hoses. I have taken the thermostat out, put the housing back on and blown threw the hose to see if the engine pathway is blocked (it is not). The oil looks fine, the trans fluid looks fine, and the coolant is burped and topped off. No leakage of any kind. When the temp gauge is in the red, there is no extra heat or steam to be found, no smoke. The only thing left in my mind is a cluster issue or a grounding issue. If anyone has two cents to throw in I would greatly appreciate it.
  4. Hi Folks. I need a little help identifying part with round top to left of the radiator. (see pic) Recently rear ended somebody and mashed in the radiator wall. Now car overheats after 5 min of driving. The part to the left of radiator was smoking last I tried to drive it and when I tried to blast hot air, only cold air comes out of the vents. I'm going to try to swap the radiator, fans and unknown part myself. Don't want to junk the car, engine is great and frame alignment is fine. Any help or tips would be great. Thanks!
  5. Hello... been a while, but my Subie's have all be doing pretty well! My brother is having an issue with his 97 Legacy GT, 2.5, auto, AWD. It has around 140k, I'm guess.... Here's what's been tried.... Thermostat (2X's) New radiator New water pump (with timing belt job) Here's what it continues to do. Car will run fine and cool for days or weeks... no prob. Then overheat unexpectedly under normal driving conditions. Up and down hills, in town, no major traffic. My brother pulls over quickly, as the temp will shoot up rapidly. Upon opening the hood, the jug is full to overflowing. As it cools, it will eventually (fairly quickly) suck back into the radiator and/or engine, in a matter of a few seconds to half a minute, leaving the jug empty, which he then refills. Sometimes, the car can then be run again with no problems... other times it may repeat itself a few times before he can drive it staying cool. There is no discoloration or frothiness to the fluid.... nice, green coolant. The only thing not yet changed is the radiator cap itself, though that suggestion was met with skepticism from the mechanics looking at the car. I had that be the issue on one of my '95's a while back. Thoughts? Thanks! He is trying to decide whether to fix the old boy or not, and any help would be appreciated! Mike
  6. First, not a mechanic. Cars baffle and intimidate me, but I'd rather learn something than pay lots of money for someone else to do it... perhaps not a good thing... Looked (researched?) all over the internet. Finally decided to start my own post... Overheating issues - seems to happen mostly when going uphill, but it's been hot lately and has also overheated after a few minutes on the road. Just started maybe a week ago, and progressed quite quickly. Not it'll do it every time. 150k miles (No idea as to the history of the car, but I'm sure the guy who sold it to me was kinda shady, after multiple issues (electrical), I noted that the CEL light should be on... when I looked closer there was some black electrical tape covering the damn thing! Yikes!) T-Stat - Replaced thermostat w OEM from the dealer Radiator Cap - Replaced Radiator Cap with a Cheap-O, but as coolant seems to rise and fall in reservoir, I don't think this would be the issue. Head Gasket - Used a NAPA block test kit, seems okay (liquid stayed blue). No visual signs of leaking head gasket under the engine, that I can tell. Air - I think I've bled the air out properly after t-stat replacement, well enough, I hope. Water Pump - Not sure, I think it's working. If I run it without the radiator cap on, the coolant level rises until the fans cool it back down. The temp seems to cycle normally, if I rev it up to about 2000+ rpm, the lower hose collapses... I'd assume the pump is causing this to vacuum... both upper and lower hose are tight with the cap installed. At idle, fans turn on at 203 F (read live via ECM), cool to about 190 F, and then cycle as such. This will continue if I hold it at about 2500 rpm as well. If I hold it at 3700 (high, I know, well, I think... sounds high), she'll overheat. I hit the red mark at about 235 F... so I stopped at about 225 F Coolant seems to pulsate up and down, as far as flow goes, can't really see it moving in this radiator design... I'm thinking the radiator possibly? Is there something I can do at home that will verify a clogged radiator? Oh ya, just to note, there was only water in it before I replaced the thermo. Thanks for any tips you might have, and for your time as well.
  7. Hi all, I'm new here and just bought a 97 outback and have been having overheating issues. A mechanic did a leakdown test and determined that it was a leaking radiator, so I replaced the radiator along with the thermostat, and the upper radiator hose (the aftermarket lower hose didn't fit). The engine runs great and drives fine around town, but when I take it on the freeway it overheats. It'll run well for anywhere from 2 minutes to an hour until the temperature suddenly rises. It takes about 30 seconds to go from normal temp to red line. If I stop for a minute and run the fan then it will return to normal temp and I can drive another couple of miles before the problem develops again. I took it to another mechanic who did another coolant leakdown test and he said the system held pressure just fine. Any ideas? I'm worried that it's a head gasket, but shouldn't that show up in a leakdown test or wouldn't it also overheat at low speeds? Could the thermostat just suddenly close?
  8. First, I want to say a big thank you to everyone here that takes the time to post their knowledge on this forum. It is so rare to find a forum with a useful knowledge base, but I found one here. I bought a 92 Loyale Wagon 5 spd 4WD about the end of July 2013 from a used car dealer. About 225,000 miles. Probably paid way too much for it... In any case, it was exactly what I was looking for, it just needed a little bit of work . I knew the clutch needed replacing when I test drove it, but thought to myself that shouldn't be too hard, I've replaced dozens and dozens of clutches in my former life (16 years) as a professional mechanic. Little did I know... I joined USMB the same day I brought home the Loyale and started reading everything I could find out about the clutch job. I have never done a Subaru or a 4WD clutch before, but it's just a few more pieces to remove and replace, right? Thanks to the videos that Miles Fox has posted on YouTube, I thought I was ready to go. I live in an apartment building, no place to work on a car, they frown when I lift the hood to check the oil in my wife's Suzuki. I found a gravel pit about 30 miles away out in the woods that I can use to work on the car. No power tools, no shelter, no lift, no engine hoist. This is the Pacific Northwest, where it rains every other day, and I drive the car daily to work, so my opportunities to work on the car are very limited. When I crawled under the car, the first thing I noticed was the torn axle boot on the inner drivers side, so off the wife went for a new axle ($60 from O'Reilly's, and they stock it!) I had ordered an Exedy Clutch kit from Amazon ($155 including shipping!) No way to pull the engine, so had to slide the transaxle back and down, using bungee cords to hold the driveshaft in (no oil loss). It only took about 3x longer than I had planned, and I had to leave the car overnight and return to finish the next day. While buttoning up the project I noticed coolant dripping out of the timing belt cover area. I had already given some thought to replacing the timing belt since I did not know the history, so I added a water pump to the mental shopping list, as well as the mouse o-ring for the oil pump. Over the next two weeks it became a ritual to add about a quart of coolant every day as the water pump was dripping steadily. Finally, back to the gravel pit last weekend with a new Aisin Water pump ($40 from Amazon), a new oil pump gasket ($7 from Amazon), a Cloyes Timing Belt Kit ($70, Amazon) and the upper and lower radiator hoses and the other small right-angle hose that connects to the water-pump, as well as a Subaru OEM Thermostat and radiator cap that I picked up at the Subaru dealer in Tacoma. Following Miles' video it was a snap to change the timing belts. The covers had been broken previously and wedged back into position; I threw them away as I removed them. Changed the Water Pump and hoses and the oil pump gasket (it was OK) while the radiator was out. Inspected the radiator, I've seen lots of these plastic side tanks come off, but these looked OK, and as far as I could see inside the filler neck the interior of the radiator looked good also. Everything went back together well. I (once again, a HUGE thanks to Miles!) followed Miles' video instructions on getting the air out of the cooling system. Everything went well. Headed for home, about 5-6 miles up the road, the temp gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added about a half gallon of coolant. Back on the road, about 5 miles later the gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added coolant. See the pattern yet? About 5 miles, stop, add coolant... I considered that it might be possible that I was not successful in getting the cooling system purged of air. The next day, after work, while still parked at work, I removed the thermostat. I filled the radiator until the block was full up to the thermostat housing (a little trick I figured out back in the early 80's for those new-fangled front wheel drive cars with low radiators), inserted the thermostat, buttoned up, and once again followed the video procedure for purging the system. After it was purged, I sat and idled for about 20 minutes, no drips, no visible coolant, system has pressure on it. Started towards home. About 5 miles later, the temp gauge again started to climb... While washing my greasy, oily clothes at the local laundromat, I parked out back and removed the Subaru OEM Thermostat and closed up the engine, filled the system, good coolant flow all the time of course. Now, the temp gauge barely nudges off the bottom line, until suddenly, at about 5 miles, it starts to climb up. Again, I stop, add about a half gallon of coolant, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon... I don't think I have actually overheated it yet, the highest the gauge has gone is about 3/4 to the red line (Used to run at about 1/4). I'm no longer leaving an antifreeze puddle on the ground when parked. I don't know where the coolant is going. Heater works great, no discernible leakage in the interior. No clouds of smoke from the tailpipe of any sort. When I stop to add coolant, there might be a little whiff of coolant on the top of the engine, near the throttle body, but it vanishes so quickly when I open the hood that I'm not sure yet. Does anyone have any idea what I am not seeing here? It's been 20+ years since the last time I worked on a Subaru, I'm not familiar with their quirks and special needs. What am I missing?
  9. As the temperatures here in Utah have hit well over 100 degrees for the past couple days, my GL-10 has started having trouble keeping its temp down. I've been very cautious and kept a close eye on the temp gauge on the dash to make sure it doesn't overheat. I've found that it stays cool just fine even at highway speeds without the a/c on, but with the A/C, the temp goes up fast and I have to turn it off again to keep the car cool. Does this indicate that I need a new radiator? Is there something I can do to get it to keep cool even with the A/C or is this just how it goes with an '87? I'm gonna flush the fluid one more time and see if that helps. any recommended brands for coolant?
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